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Perfect world: the housing would be welded, then straightened in a fixture to ensure proper axle tube alignment, then the plate would be surfaced and drilled for the studs.

Real world: people won't pay for that level of precision, nor is it really necessary.

Happy medium: jig weld the rear axle, then use a fixture to straighten the tubes into alignment and adjust the face plate flatness within a certain tolerance.
 
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Discussion Starter #22
I called QP right before closing tonight with no answer. It's Monday, and I had a heck of one myself at work. I tried to bend the flange ant the bottom with a 16" adjustable wrench and the housing laughed at me for trying. 2 layers of 1/8" metal with a fully welded bead around the bottom both inside and out, not going to happen without a lot of heat. It's only the very bottom that is out. I put a flat sheet of plate over the carrier hole and it's perfectly flat until the last 2 inches at the bottom. I put a 3/8 drill bit in the bottom hole and it wasn't bad when referenced with a square from the top of the housing. I think if the surface at the bottom was flat-ish the stud would pull through square enough. If they say it's close enough I'll probably spend an hour or two with some straight edges and a grinder with a sanding disk and get it within my tolerances.
784252


Bottom flange inside looking out.
 

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Spammer Hammer
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I would be more tempted to get a 1/4”-3/8” plate and match drill the plate to the third member. Cut a hole in the plate large enough that you can access the inside of the housing while you bolt it to the housing flange. It might pull straight. You might have to heat the housing flange. If only the bottom is out, maybe you don’t need a full perimeter template plate and only a half plate.

Remember, simply grinding the surface flat is not going to straighten the holes. So the studs will still be skewed.
 

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Spammer Hammer
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Optionally, maybe you can heat the flange and straighten it with a shop press. Might not even need heat. Some localized pressure might get it straight enough.
 

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on the bottom ! I have seen sillycone come out of the back and front of 289-351w intakes. I would never trust it to stay in on the bottom.You will not be able to straighten that with a wrench. I work with 1/8" plate and its very strong. That housing is very strong and that center area is way strong to handle the loads it does. also if you use it and tighten it too much you might crack the chunk where the stud is. There is no way to know how tight it will go before breaking. I always use a chunk gasket and they are extremely thin because that mating flange has to be flat. There is a lot of back and forth torque on that chunk from the axles via the tires when accelerating.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I would be more tempted to get a 1/4”-3/8” plate and match drill the plate to the third member. Cut a hole in the plate large enough that you can access the inside of the housing while you bolt it to the housing flange. It might pull straight. You might have to heat the housing flange. If only the bottom is out, maybe you don’t need a full perimeter template plate and only a half plate.

Remember, simply grinding the surface flat is not going to straighten the holes. So the studs will still be skewed.
Before I would go to such efforts I'll make the 8" work
 

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Discussion Starter #27
on the bottom ! I have seen sillycone come out of the back and front of 289-351w intakes. I would never trust it to stay in on the bottom.You will not be able to straighten that with a wrench. I work with 1/8" plate and its very strong. That housing is very strong and that center area is way strong to handle the loads it does. also if you use it and tighten it too much you might crack the chunk where the stud is. There is no way to know how tight it will go before breaking. I always use a chunk gasket and they are extremely thin because that mating flange has to be flat. There is a lot of back and forth torque on that chunk from the axles via the tires when accelerating.
It's not 1/8" plate. It's doubled up 1/8" plate. See picture above.
 

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To those who posted about welding causing steel to move (shrink). Sure. But QP should have jigs to prevent that.

To be honest, I didn't notice this on mine. But I didn't measure it either.

I wouldn't accept it. I'd bet that QP will be happy to replace it. Based on my experience, they are a quality shop.

Its likely that the holes are drilled after it's welded. So the studs might be straight. Until they're torqued down. Then they're be all tweaked/bound/bent. Nope. Nope. Nope.

If I had to fix it, I'd heat it right at the weld bead around the edge and figure out how to put it in a press with something between the press bar and the housing to distribute the load.

Seems like nobody is doing good work these days.
 

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No heat, no hammer, no drill bit, no nothing until you talk to QP. If you start beating on it you own it, warts and all.
 

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Why not just put the studs in and try test fitting the third member? If it drops on great. And if it doesn't then you can snap a pic to show QP when you do finally talk to them. Seems like either way you will have an answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I talked to Mike at QP this evening and he said that's the way they are. They checked a few in the shop and I guess my situation was about average and they saw no problem.
 
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Discussion Starter #37
I emailed @Shaun at Street or Track last night referencing this thread asking if the flange was normal. He emailed back today saying all the flanges he checked on his fabricated housings are dead flat. Another expensive lesson learned! While I save for one of his housings this year I'll probably hang all the shinny 3 link and watts link parts on the garage wall as motivation!

The QP housing and axles are for sale for 1/2 of what I paid for them.
 

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I emailed @Shaun at Street or Track last night referencing this thread asking if the flange was normal. He emailed back today saying all the flanges he checked on his fabricated housings are dead flat. Another expensive lesson learned! While I save for one of his housings this year I'll probably hang all the shinny 3 link and watts link parts on the garage wall as motivation!

The QP housing and axles are for sale for 1/2 of what I paid for them.
I'd have QP take them back.
 

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I bet for $40 and a 12 pack, you can prolly get a machine shop make that problem go away. cheaper than shipping it back. I would not be happy with that, I would not want any stress on the cast iron pumpkin. Worth an hour. I'm a little surprised you need that much housing e.g. unsprung weight back there for a 331.
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
I bet for $40 and a 12 pack, you can prolly get a machine shop make that problem go away. cheaper than shipping it back. I would not be happy with that, I would not want any stress on the cast iron pumpkin. Worth an hour. I'm a little surprised you need that much housing e.g. unsprung weight back there for a 331.
I know that I went to 6 machine shops on my 331 saga, every one more incompetent than the last. I'm older and a little wiser (apparently not enough), I'm not going to go to machine shop after machine shop again paying many times for subpar work when I know I can write Shaun a check once and it will be done right. I tried to cheap out again, and got bit in the a$$ again. Regarding the fabricated housing, it is supposedly lighter than the standard one.
 
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