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Issue with upper control arm removal :/

5K views 41 replies 15 participants last post by  GypsyR 
#1 ·
Hi Guys,

I seemed to have run into an issue regarding the coil spring and removing the upper control arm on my '68. Can I use a macpherson spring compressor to pull up the bottom coil?
737320
 
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#2 ·
If you're after getting the upper arm off, I'd say at this point to let off the spring compressor and the spring should relax on out of there. Might need a little wiggle help at the bottom but I believe it will come out. Keep your picture so you have a reference. I think you need to grab a bit lower on the spring when you go to put it back in.
 
#5 ·
Thanks! I backed the spring off a little bit and got the control arm out. the spring ended up shifting and i backed the compressor all the way out...so, the spring is out of the car too. Would my best course of action be to set in the spring and compress and then install the control arm?
 
#4 ·
I would never leave the spring compressed after you take it off. Too much potential energy in there. Also, that spring should just pull out from the bottom. Is the upper part of the compressor attached to a coil or the top of the shock tower? As Woodchuck said, you may have to decompress it as you pulling the lower part out, just be careful. Maybe stand to the side just in case!
 
#7 ·
I don't like working with springs being held compressed so I would do everything I could without the spring (compressed) in the way. The idea getting it all ready to go as much as possible and doing the spring almost last so as to be actually working with the compressed spring as little as possible. The warnings about springs aren't kidding. If/when one comes loose they tend to do it very suddenly and cause grievous bodily harm to any body parts in their vicinity.
All that said, seen like you need to rotate that compressor down about half a turn more and you should be able to have a bit more room.
Have you thought about doing the Arning Drop while you're in there? Besides its other nice handling benefits, it drops the A-arm down a bit which makes it easier to reinstall front springs. Win-win!
 
#10 ·
I considered the Arning Drop....had a friend offer the kit and told him I would give him the cash and never heard from him after that. Whatever.

Anyhow, I am using the OEM 27035 compressor. So, I think that to recompress the spring, going to the lowest possible coils to compress would be my best bet? Also, the final coil end aligns with the spring perch tab, right?

I did have to fight with the old arm to get it out, one frame side bolt was freewheeling and the other side bushing shifted far to the left.
 
#8 · (Edited)
I personally would put everything back together saving the springs and the shock absorber for last. Last time I messed with springs I used a spring compressor that had positive control of the spring coils and couldn't slip off if something shifted when handling the compressed spring. The compressor in the picture is the only type I trust. You can see in that the coils are securely fastened to the spring compressor. I would still relieve the tension off the spring once I pulled it out and compress it only right before I was ready to reinstall it.

I practice the safe method now. However, when I was much younger, I have removed the shock, jacked up the car, broke the upper control arm free of the spindle, unbolted the bolts on holding the UCA to the shock tower, tied a long rope around the UCA and spring get s good distance away, and give it a good yank or several until it came free. I didn't think about collateral damage to the car doing this way but never had a problem back then.
 

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#11 ·

Should I use this compressor for reinstall?
 
#29 ·
The "Arning Drop" on a '67 & up is a simple 1-inch drop of the upper control arm mounting holes. If you don't want to bother buying a template, simply take the top of an oil filter box, or suitable piece of "boxboard", and draw two PARALLEL lines 2-inches long and 4-3/4" apart. Next, draw two more parallel lines, 6-inches long intersecting the first 2 lines, 1-inch apart.

Now, take an X-acto knife and make 2 slits, in the shape of an "X" where the top horizontal line intersects each of the 2 vertical lines centered and EXACTLY 1/2" long. Lastly, take a 1/8-inch drill bit and make a hole on the LOWER horizontal line exactly where it intersects the 2 vertical lines.

Insert two 1/2-inch bolts through the "X" shaped slits you made and then through the existing control arm holes. Secure with a nut on the back side if needed. Take a center punch and punch a hole through the 1/8-inch hole you punched with the drill bit. Remove your cardboard template and drill each center-punched mark with the 1/8-inch bit, then step up to 1/4-inch, 3/8-inch and 17/32-inch. You're done.

737394
 
#32 ·
I made this blog entry 7 years ago when I did my Shelby drop. It should be useful to you. The reason a 17/32" bit is used is because it's a 1/32" larger than a 1/2" bolt, so you can put the bolt through the hole without galling, scraping or damaging the threads. Bolt holes are usually overdrilled for the size of bolt they're supposed to take. It's not a common size so you'll need to order it online. I think somebody should make a 'kit' that includes the template and drill bit.

Note in this I was using a strut compressor, I use the compressors with the 4 hooks now.

I also prefer the metal template. Once it's bolted in place there's no way it's going to move or shift like a piece of paper. I just don't trust myself with a piece of paper.

 
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#34 ·
Hi guys,

the spring perch compressor and template came in just before Thursday...this I had some packages waiting when I got back from Vegas??
Anyhow, would a 9/16 drill bit be too large for the control arm studs? A 17/32 is .53125in, whereas the 9/16 is .5625. If the 9/16 is too large, I could get the 17/32. Also, prior to drilling, I did some test fitting and ran into a minor issue. When I compress the spring and match the perch studs to the control arm, they don’t completely line up. I assume that keeping the arm loose and then lining up will solve the issue and tightening the nuts will bring it all together? I’ll be attaching the perch before attaching the ballpoint to the spindle, correct?
 
#37 ·
Use the 17/32 bit. You want the hole as close as possible to prevent slop, but just large enough that the 1/2 studs will go through without hindrance.

Drill for the drop first, then attach UCA and shims with ball joint and spindle, then perch and spring. Everything should line up pretty well at that point. Are you doing tour own alignment?
I found a 17/32 bit this morning at Ace??
There is a local shop that can align for me.
I’ve read that I should leave some play in the control arm bolts so everything can line up, should I do that?
 
#36 ·
Use the 17/32 bit. You want the hole as close as possible to prevent slop, but just large enough that the 1/2 studs will go through without hindrance.

Drill for the drop first, then attach UCA and shims with ball joint and spindle, then perch and spring. Everything should line up pretty well at that point. Are you doing tour own alignment?
 
#38 ·
Wow. That's a lot of conversation about drilling 4 holes.......

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 
#40 ·
Just to be contrary, I drilled my holes with a 1/2" bit then reamed the holes to final size. Firstly because of course I didn't have a 17/32" bit on hand and secondly I didn't care because I know that twist drill bits in a hand drill do not make nice concentrically round holes. Which is why reams exist.

For those not paying attention, Opentracker has been offering a free PDF template for the drop in the "trade/free" section for some 13 years now.
 
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