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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi it's a long time since I've been here as I've been finishing and enjoying my stock 48 V8 coupe. it's now Iime to pull the cover off the stang that has been in an enforced "hibernation" for some 7 years and to do some work to get it up to reliable "running scratch".

I'm looking at putting in a Pertonix Ignitor module and coil. Engine is stock 260 with the original disrtibutor with oil wick. I presume I would need the standard Ignitor rather than the II version. Is there a code number for the correct kit?

Thanks
GB
 

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Welcome back! Just contact your favorite Mustang parts vendor and ask for the Pertronix models that are available for your distributor. I'm not sure you can still get the original Pertronix Ignitor, but I know the ignitor II and the ignitor III are available. I am running the II for 22 years now and have had no need or desire to change to the III.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the reply. I hear the II doesn't allow you to burn out the module if you accidentally leave the ignition on which can happen with the I? Did you bypass the pink ballast wire?

regards
GB
 

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Yeah I think that's what I did. It has been 22 years and 50,000 miles ago.
 

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for a guy that likes old fords, what's wrong with points? Its kinda part of the mystique of owning an old car and the basic definition of tinkering. Damn reliable if you give them a look once a year, Keep a condenser and a new set in the glove box and you always get home. Heck in the 50 years (holy cow) I've been driving my old Triumph TR3 never had a breakdown attributable to them. I check mine every oil change, replace then every 5 years or so just to make me feel better, they usually dress out nicely with a points file I also keep in the glove box. I could understand for a resto mod but for a stocker, points are just part of the fun. Did you put Petronix in the 48, I'm guessing no - right? Module goes out and its call a tow truck...

I'm jus say'n - please don't feel the need to explain - just putt'n that out there - if it ain't broke...
 

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a) The Ignitor I is an excellent choice as long as you understand its primary limitation, which is the tendency for it to overheat and burn up if the key is inadvertently left in the "ON" position without the engine running for a period of time, if in "dwell" phase.

b) IMHO, a "better" solution is a "small cap" DurasparkII distributor albeit more easily spotted due to the 3-wire harness versus two wires on for the Pertronix (easily disguised with some small shrink tube)...

c) No need for a replacement coil as long as there is nothing wrong with yours... changing to a "hotter" coil is kind of like running premium gas if you otherwise don't need it. You only need enough spark to ignite the fuel... once that job is done that's it.

d) If installing the Pertronix Ignitor I, I recommend running a clean, dedicated 18awg wire back through the firewall plug (you can drill out one of the "blanks", the unused locations and using some butyl glue, secure the necessary male/female bullet connectors in case you want to disconnect in the future) directly to the ignition switch "C" terminal to connect your Ignitor I's RED power wire, leaving the resistance wire, bypass wire and coil feed wiring in place.

e) If installing the DurasparkII distributor, I recommend removing the "ugly plug" and replacing with a more compact 3-wire connector... molex, deutsch, etc., and connecting the distributor to a MOPAR ignition box, again pulling a clean, dedicated power wire to the module. Let me know if you'd like a wiring schematic.+

NOTE: If you decide you'd like some "protection" for the Ignitor I's predisposition to go "poof" when the ignition is left "on", you can run its power circuit through a separate relay timer and oil pressure switch that will provide instant power when switched on for a desired period of time... say 30 seconds, then if no oil pressure found it will shut down... also cheap insurance should you shred an oil pump driveshaft. Again, let me know if you need a schematic.
 

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I use the pertronix 1281, which is the first version, on my 68 along with a matching coil. I see they are still available. I never bypassed the pink resistor wire and it has been running fine for 20+ years. I have never tested leaving the ignition on w/o the engine running so I can not comment on that. Hope this helps.
 

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And I have a points plate with points and condenser ready to go in case the Ignitor fails. I also have a spare solenoid, coil, cap and rotor, a spare tire with jack and wrench, some fuses, a couple of 1157 bulbs in case the LED tail or a front signal goes out...
 
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for a guy that likes old fords, what's wrong with points? Its kinda part of the mystique of owning an old car and the basic definition of tinkering. Damn reliable if you give them a look once a year, Keep a condenser and a new set in the glove box and you always get home. Heck in the 50 years (holy cow) I've been driving my old Triumph TR3 never had a breakdown attributable to them. I check mine every oil change, replace then every 5 years or so just to make me feel better, they usually dress out nicely with a points file I also keep in the glove box. I could understand for a resto mod but for a stocker, points are just part of the fun. Did you put Petronix in the 48, I'm guessing no - right? Module goes out and its call a tow truck...

I'm jus say'n - please don't feel the need to explain - just putt'n that out there - if it ain't broke...
BTW, I'm an old TR4 racing guy. Points, is all we knew back in the day.....
 

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a) The Ignitor I is an excellent choice as long as you understand its primary limitation, which is the tendency for it to overheat and burn up if the key is inadvertently left in the "ON" position without the engine running for a period of time, if in "dwell" phase.

b) IMHO, a "better" solution is a "small cap" DurasparkII distributor albeit more easily spotted due to the 3-wire harness versus two wires on for the Pertronix (easily disguised with some small shrink tube)...

c) No need for a replacement coil as long as there is nothing wrong with yours... changing to a "hotter" coil is kind of like running premium gas if you otherwise don't need it. You only need enough spark to ignite the fuel... once that job is done that's it.

d) If installing the Pertronix Ignitor I, I recommend running a clean, dedicated 18awg wire back through the firewall plug (you can drill out one of the "blanks", the unused locations and using some butyl glue, secure the necessary male/female bullet connectors in case you want to disconnect in the future) directly to the ignition switch "C" terminal to connect your Ignitor I's RED power wire, leaving the resistance wire, bypass wire and coil feed wiring in place.

e) If installing the DurasparkII distributor, I recommend removing the "ugly plug" and replacing with a more compact 3-wire connector... molex, deutsch, etc., and connecting the distributor to a MOPAR ignition box, again pulling a clean, dedicated power wire to the module. Let me know if you'd like a wiring schematic.+

NOTE: If you decide you'd like some "protection" for the Ignitor I's predisposition to go "poof" when the ignition is left "on", you can run its power circuit through a separate relay timer and oil pressure switch that will provide instant power when switched on for a desired period of time... say 30 seconds, then if no oil pressure found it will shut down... also cheap insurance should you shred an oil pump driveshaft. Again, let me know if you need a schematic.
Bart, would it be too much to ask for some part #'s for your ideal DurasparkII install. I'd like to do this conversion eventually. Thanks
 

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BTW, I'm an old TR4 racing guy. Points, is all we knew back in the day.....
Not to steal a thread but totally doing so, this is my old man in mine before it was considered "vintage" racing... its red again these days. I've never had it on a track as a TR 6 was scary enough for me. That's why I got a Mustang because the TR 6 doors were creaking in turn one at Sears Point raceway as I started to get faster...

Its amazing to imagine how much money is on that track in Porsches in today's dollars...

747425


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