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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is an update on my manifold carburetor project. It seems pretty tight at first when cranking over and runs a bit rough when started. I suppose I need some timing adjustments. Since it started, albeit slowly, that is a good sign for me. However, based on the slow start, does it appear the distributor is installed correctly? Any other thoughts are appreciated.

 

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Check the timeing with a light . I have a 351w that is built some that set for 20 + years & it's still cranks before you can turn the key loose same as it did when I was driveing it.

Good thing is yours cranks & runs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Strange and not sure what is happening. The car is running hot. I am pretty sure I got the thermostat in correctly and the upper and the lower hose both get hot, so pretty sure its circulating. I was only able to get about 8 quarts of coolant/water in the system, and figured that was about the total amount in the radiator that got drained and the remaining 6 quarts of so were still in the block. I don't think the coolant passages got blocked with debris or in some other manner. It took about five minutes of running, not driving, for it to get hot. I saw the gauge moving to the right (hot) indication so i cut it off. I do not hear any noise from the top end, the rockers etc, so it must all be getting oil. I suspect if it was not getting oil I would have heard some noise or locked something up after five or ten minutes. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Some additional information. I let it cool, started it again, and waited for the thermostat to open and see the coolant move in the radiator. The water just poured out the top of the radiator, it did not move through the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Wonder if my internal lines inside the radiator are clogged after the rebuild? If so, what about something like these? Looks like I can purchase both through NPD and worth helping a sponsor.

or

 

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That Maxcore looks nice, but If the radiator was good before, it should still be good. If You haven't completely sorted your timing and carb, that can make heat.
 

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Wonder if my internal lines inside the radiator are clogged after the rebuild? If so, what about something like these? Looks like I can purchase both through NPD and worth helping a sponsor.

or

You probably just need to burp the engine. Get a funnel that attaches at the radiator cap and fill it to the line with coolant and you can run it with that funnel on it and watch for bubbles coming out. Better yet, park it on a hill or raise the front of the mustang up so the radiator cap is higher than the rest of the engine with that funnel on.
 

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Great job on getting it running though! It’s a good feeling when you hear it fire up after tearing it apart. Even the most experienced person with engines will still have to fiddle with stuff like timing and cooling after a job like this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes, even though its not running perfect, just the fact that it did not begin leaking oil or coolant from anywheres and was not knocking etc. was a good sign for me. Did the factory come with a fan shroud, am I missing one, and would that make a difference? I am not just trying to throw money at it, but wanting to get air conditioning at some point (Texas remember), and the price is not bad and installation looks easy. Looks like a direct fit, just remove upper and lower hoses, remove transmission hoses, remove four bolts, replace. I like the idea of a funnel that attaches to the radiator, is that a purchase item or make and adapt?
 

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Having a fan shroud always helps. It’s what was engineered from the factory. Most took them off believing it would help. As far as yours coming with one I’m not sure. When I had my 66 it didn’t have one when I bought it, but I added it and got rid of the flex a lite fan with a stock one and it ran nice and cool after that. AC is a whole other thing I am not aware of, but it is fairly involved to do. I don’t really have a need, being in the PNW.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
When I try to crank, as noted before, it is a slow crank and I can see some smoke coming up from somewhere and then it catches and starts. Not sure what it is. Is there some chance the electric choke wire attached to the alternator stator is causing some issues?

Also, I used a no leak funnel to burp the radiator, and I watched the temperature gauge. The gauge never got hot but the top hose was screaming hot and the engine bay was really hot also. I don't trust the temperature sensor. Still thinking about the radiator. The Cool Case radiator has a 1/8 inch NPT transmission cooler line connection. I have not pulled my line off but I can see it is rubber lines connected to metal lines. Are these connections that screw into the radiator on one side and have a barb on the other. Are the lines 1/8 also?
 

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I'm with Matter on this one. That slow crank means your timing is too far advanced. As far as coolant overflow, how far did you fill the rad? Don't top it off. Only fill to about 1/8" over the core holes. Coolant expands quite a bit when it ges hot and needs room to do so. Expect it to run hot on the dash gauge... they're kinda useless. Once it started in the video, it sounded very nice, but I'll bet it would start a lot easier if you retarded the spark. I'll bet, after it's heated up, if you shut it off, that slow crank will be worse than when you started it cold. If that's the case, it's the timing.
And congrats on another "Frankenstein" project!
 

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When I try to crank, as noted before, it is a slow crank and I can see some smoke coming up from somewhere and then it catches and starts. Not sure what it is. Is there some chance the electric choke wire attached to the alternator stator is causing some issues?

Also, I used a no leak funnel to burp the radiator, and I watched the temperature gauge. The gauge never got hot but the top hose was screaming hot and the engine bay was really hot also. I don't trust the temperature sensor. Still thinking about the radiator. The Cool Case radiator has a 1/8 inch NPT transmission cooler line connection. I have not pulled my line off but I can see it is rubber lines connected to metal lines. Are these connections that screw into the radiator on one side and have a barb on the other. Are the lines 1/8 also?
If you have an air lock in the system or low coolant, that can cause your gauge to register low as it will not actually be in coolant but more like steam. With the cap off the radiator, once the car is up to temp you should see coolant flowing inside the radiator. If you don't, your thermostat is probably stuck closed or backward.
Also, with your timing over advanced still, that can put a lot of extra heat in the engine. Your smoke could be the starter or wiring from the high amp draw of the starter trying to turn over the over advanced engine. Best to get back to basics with your timing and tune, eliminate the guesswork,.
 
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