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Discussion Starter #1
I am still in the teardown part of my restoration...taggin and baggin everything. As I am doing this, I am also contemplating how I am going to go about constructing a jig so I can replace the entire floor pan, a portion of the firewall, lower quarters, front frame rails, wheel houses, etc.... I am probably going with the Full Floor Assembly from NPD.

I want to make something that will run the full length and width of the car. It will be stationary for the most part, but I will probably rig something up so it can be rolled when needed. My question is, can I use 2" x 2" steel tube? Will it be beefy enough to maintain integrity if I have 4 supports to the floor on each side and 4 cross runners between them? If so, what thickness do I use....1/8. 3/16? Obviously I don't want to spend more than necessary on steel, but I also don't want something that will flex and twist.

Any input would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys....that will make it lighter and less expensive.
 

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If it's sitting on the floor then you're probably good. I made mine from 2 x 2 x 1/8 but I got a lot of flex when I put it on the rotisserie. The car is supported from the lower control arm and the front and rear leaf spring anchor points.
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When I dropped down on cinder blocks under the front crossover and the crossover on the front leaf spring anchor that worked pretty good.
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Scott - I also followed Adams build and will probably “study” it a little more as I plan my attack.
Steve - I really like the adjustability of your set up. I was afraid of there being too much play in the receivers. How did they work? It sure is a lot more fabrication to build it, but I guess it would be good welding practice.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Another question...what size tubing would be suitable for bracing the car as I remove metal?...Areas such as between shock towers, door openings, between wheelhouses, trunk opening, etc...
 

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I built a fixture out of 4"x4"x3/16" with adjustable feet and casters. I am fixing to start my third build on this fixture and will hopefully have many more on it. I designed it to be able to adapt to different types of builds, but the cross members are aligned to major structure components. For a one time use fixture, the previously recommended 2" square tube would work great. You will have to support it in more places as it will flex, but once supported will be fine.

I use 1" square x 1/8" wall tube for bracing, along with whatever other scrap tube for the small braces. I like a good export brace for shock tower alignment.
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I ground a small bevel on the bolts, not quite to a point. Once I tightened it down I had no slippage. Everything stays put even when I roll the car. The only problem was the flex in the main rails. If I was replacing sheet-metal I'd drop it down on blocks to gain some rigidity.

Latoracing has a very good jig for replacing metal.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks, Bart. I really like your plans and that would be the ideal route if I had machining equipment.
 

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Thanks, Bart. I really like your plans and that would be the ideal route if I had machining equipment.
You could do it with a minimal amount of hand tools if you took your time. Most of what Bart references as machining is drilling holes. The slots in the tubing could be cut with a portaband. If nothing else you could use it for the basis of a design built with tools you have.
 

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I have the frame work that my Dynacorn body came on, would make a great cart, just add some casters. It's free for the taking, if you come and get it..
 
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