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1968 Ford Mustang Coupe
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!
This car was inherited a decade and a half ago but never got around to finishing it. It was a project my dad and I started but he lost his battle to cancer a few years ago.

I’ve finally gotten back around to opening this chapter of my life back up and wanting to complete this project.

My goal is to have a weekend car to enjoy and reminisce of times with my pops. Looking to do a restomod. I’d like to learn more about vintage mustangs and how they work. Also would learn to weld items (have a Lincoln 125 flux core welder)

Here are the current stats and pics of the car.

1968 Ford Mustang Coupe
Engine: 302 block
Transmission: Automatic
Brakes: No power, drums front and rear

Issues:
  • car doesn’t want to start running (gas leaks from carb)
  • sitting for a while in the sun
  • rust in certain
Parts currently have and ready to install:
  • Master Power power brakes and front disc conversion
  • Boegeson power steering and GM Saginaw power steering pump

Looking for direction to see if it’s worth
754987
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1968 Ford Mustang Coupe
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Discussion Starter #3
So I went to start the engine and it actually turned over. I proceeded to turn the car off. However, as I attempted this a few more times, I believe fuel started to be dumped in a bit more than what the engine wanted. after a while the engine no longer is able to turn over.

What happened and how can it be fixed?
 

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So I went to start the engine and it actually turned over. I proceeded to turn the car off. However, as I attempted this a few more times, I believe fuel started to be dumped in a bit more than what the engine wanted. after a while the engine no longer is able to turn over.

What happened and how can it be fixed?
Do you mean "turn over" or running? if the engine is still cranking but no longer starting and you believe too much gas is going into the engine, it is probably flooded. Carburetor probably needs rebuilt, I would suspect the needle valve on the float is stuck open or carb float is sunk. You can remove the spark plugs and let the cylinders dry out, the spark plug will also be wet and smell like gas.
 

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I recommend fresh fluids in the system before you circulate old stuff throughout...
If it doesn't turn over, maybe battery is dead. If it turns over but doesn't fire, maybe ignition system needs serviced.
If it turns over and fires but it doesn't start, maybe there is too much fuel or not enough, or perhaps it has pulled trash up from the lines or tank and stuck open or closed the needle and seat. That Edelbrock is easy.
The starting, ignition, and fuel systems are simple, separate but equally important and getting them together at the right time are the key. Check and diagnose the systems separately to avoid confusion and throwing darts in the dark. And have fun with it !
 
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1966 Mustang Hardtop 289 4 Speed
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Jon, from the few pics you've shown I can easily tell you are going to be in for some major rust repair. If the roof, A pillars, wheel house and quarters have holes I'm willing to bet you are going to find a lot more once you start stripping paint. Have you taken a good look at the front and rear torque boxes and frame rails? What about the inner cowl?

Sorry to hear about your dad.
 

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1968 Ford Mustang Coupe
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Discussion Starter #7
Just an update. I was able to manually turn the crank after removing the starter.

An observation: it is a bit tough (doesn’t spin as easily as using a 1/2” ratchet) turning the crank with a 2 foot long breaker bar. Not sure if that is normal or not.

I’ve gone ahead and replaced the old starter with a PGMR starter from a 1995 Mustang.
After adding the new wire, I attempted to turn the car on and it exhibited the same behavior as before; something was stuck. I attempted to turn the crank with the breaker bar and it looks like the rotation is limited (whether clockwise or counterclockwise).

Any pointers?
 

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If the engine got flooded with fuel or coolant leaked into a cylinder it may be hydro-locked. If the distributor or fuel pump are seized it may be too much for it to spin over. Turn it over with all the plugs out, get everything moving freely then do an individual cylinder compression check.
 

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1968 Ford Mustang Coupe
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Discussion Starter #9
If the engine got flooded with fuel or coolant leaked into a cylinder it may be hydro-locked. If the distributor or fuel pump are seized it may be too much for it to spin over. Turn it over with all the plugs out, get everything moving freely then do an individual cylinder compression check.
Just tried this and still exhibits the same lockup with the spark plugs out.
 

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1968 Ford Mustang Coupe
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Discussion Starter #10
Jon, from the few pics you've shown I can easily tell you are going to be in for some major rust repair. If the roof, A pillars, wheel house and quarters have holes I'm willing to bet you are going to find a lot more once you start stripping paint. Have you taken a good look at the front and rear torque boxes and frame rails? What about the inner cowl?

Sorry to hear about your dad.
I’ll keep looking. The bottom of the car around the torque boxes and frame rails look alright. I won’t know until I strip the paint though. I’d like to know how to look and identify rust spots correctly.

Any tips on this and also how to strip paint?
 

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1968 Ford Mustang Coupe
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Discussion Starter #11
I recommend fresh fluids in the system before you circulate old stuff throughout...
If it doesn't turn over, maybe battery is dead. If it turns over but doesn't fire, maybe ignition system needs serviced.
If it turns over and fires but it doesn't start, maybe there is too much fuel or not enough, or perhaps it has pulled trash up from the lines or tank and stuck open or closed the needle and seat. That Edelbrock is easy.
The starting, ignition, and fuel systems are simple, separate but equally important and getting them together at the right time are the key. Check and diagnose the systems separately to avoid confusion and throwing darts in the dark. And have fun with it !
This is great advice. These things are all new to me. I was able to grab a digital copy of the factory service manual for the ‘68 Mustang.

Any tips on how to properly raise the car onto floor jacks?
 

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1968 Ford Mustang Coupe
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Discussion Starter #12
Update: I was able to get the starter put on and can now crank the engine manually.

The next issue: I raised the rear end of the car (bottom of axle housing, I think this is called the rear differential?). Proceeded to place the car into gear from inside the car. Attempted to manually crank the car and it looks like the wheels aren’t turning. The emergency brake is also disengaged.

Now to figure out how to get the rear wheels turning.
 

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The car shouldn't start with it in gear if it's an automatic. Put the trans in neutral and turn one tire by hand. The other will likely turn the opposite direction. May take some doing if the drums are bonded to the brake shoes.

For looking for rust, cover a small but strong magnet with a layer of cloth and slide it over the suspect areas, tap on things with the end of a screwdriver handle and listen for obvious changes in the sound, look for what look like bubbles or sags under the paint, a long look down the sides for wavy areas etc.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
The car shouldn't start with it in gear if it's an automatic. Put the trans in neutral and turn one tire by hand. The other will likely turn the opposite direction. May take some doing if the drums are bonded to the brake shoes.

For looking for rust, cover a small but strong magnet with a layer of cloth and slide it over the suspect areas, tap on things with the end of a screwdriver handle and listen for obvious changes in the sound, look for what look like bubbles or sags under the paint, a long look down the sides for wavy areas etc.
Okay good to know. Yes, it is an automatic. I placed the car into neutral and proceeded to turn the driver’s side rear wheel; it wouldn’t budge. I made sure the emergency brakes were disengaged. Same thing.

How do I go about getting this wheel to turn.
 

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Pull the wheels off, back off the self adjusters behind the backing plate if needed and remove the drums, inspect the shoes and drums, refurbish or replace as needed. If the axle still won't turn, could be a seized wheel or pinion / carrier bearing in the diff, but not as likely.
 
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1968 Ford Mustang Coupe
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Discussion Starter #16
Pull the wheels off, back off the self adjusters behind the backing plate if needed and remove the drums, inspect the shoes and drums, refurbish or replace as needed. If the axle still won't turn, could be a seized wheel or pinion / carrier bearing in the diff, but not as likely.
Okay. Because the wheels are locked, I’ll need to figure out how to reposition the car. The above pictures show the passengers side is blocked by a shed like structure.

Any guides on how to back off the self adjusters?

I took the drivers side rear wheel off but was not able to remove the drum brake. It seems either the e-brake is set and/or drum shoe is stuck to the drum.
 

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1968 Ford Mustang Coupe
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Discussion Starter #18
Just an update. Got the car up on jack stands (btw the Harbor Freight 6 Ton Pittsburgh units, grey color, are on recall) and was able to start the car with the new starter.

Looks like these Optima Redtops don’t last as long as they used too (ever since Johnson Control took over and manufactured in Mexico).

Replaced the battery with a good one and now able to start the car. Engine isn’t doing so well. Sounds like it needs a really good tune up. The engine doesn’t quite fire on all cylinders.

Looks like rain seeped in through trunk area but no visible puddles.
 

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Tune-ups are easy, affordable and actually quite fun and rewarding on these cars. Good luck !
 

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1968 Ford Mustang Coupe
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Discussion Starter #20
At this point, it looks like the work needed to do for this Mustang is out of my own skill domain and body shops around here are charging quite a few bucks in labor.

Going to toss this up for sale in my area.
Thanks for the help.
 
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