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Discussion Starter #1
I recently just purchased a 65 coupe that had been sitting in storage for about 7 years. I got it for a great price. The guy I bought it from said he recently purchased it from another guy who had it in storage for 7 years. He said the guy had been having over heating issues and just never bothered to look into it. So far we have replaced the fuel pump, water pump, spark plus, cap and rotor, new fuel line (old one was rusted like I have never seen) new intake (some gas inside the old one looked like varnish), new belts and new carburetor.

The car started right up, but after driving it a little while, it would turn off, it seems like no fuel was going to the carb. We blew air from front to back (plus we put in a new fuel line anyway). At this point, the only thing we didn’t check was the sending unit and the tank it self. After sitting for about 7 years can the fuel tank still be good? We will replace the sending unit regardless i think. We will take the tank out tonight to see what’s going on there. The car started up and drove for a bit but would die if running for a while.

I guess my question is, what are some problems that can develop with a car sitting for so long? Does the fuel tank have to be replaced? What condition will the sending unit be in? Thanks for the help.

mustang 6.jpg
 

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did you replace the fuel filter? coil? did you get the timing right? did you check the vacuum to see it was maxed out? did you double check the compression and valve lash?

gas tanks these days are real cheap, you can get one for about $120 with new sending unit gaskets etc so its always worth replacing since its probably the original.
 

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If the fuel lines were in that bad of shape, good chance the fuel tank is as well. Hopefully you put a new fuel filter on before your new carb, so you didn't get something lodged in there. Gas tanks are pretty cheap to replace and give you comfort that it won't give you problems going forward.
 

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dont worry its just backing up the statement :)

kind of bummed out that my 'premium' fuel tank was made in china

old cars can be funny, when i first got mine and we rebuilt the 289 the first time around it would die when we put it in reverse or drive unless it idled for about 15 minutes even in warmish weather. found it it was the valve lash, we got it right and it never died unless it was dead beat cold.

my point is it could be many things, its worth just taking a list from here and tinkering around till you get her running good and smooth
 

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Might just be a bunch of gunk in your tank. I've read the debates on boiling or cleaning old tanks that have been sitting... it usually ends up with "just replace it... they're cheap enough and then you know it's ok".

The car is very nice looking... I hope mine comes out half as nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the great advice guys. We did replace the fuel filter. We got the timing right and I am not sure on the vacuum but I will definitely check it out.

The car had been taking care ( good thing he had it in a storage and not in his front driveway) of and I assumed the previous owner already had a “new” fuel tank on there. I guess sitting for so long (7 years) still requires buying another one. I was looking at the kits available and the prices are not bad at all.

Speaking of the cragar wheels the only rust I found on the car was on the cragars, which I am fine with. The car had no rust issues, the interior was very nice, the body was in great shape. I really don’t understand why someone would let the car go. I thought the 289 would have to be rebuilt figuring it had been sitting for 7 years and had heating issues. Eventually the car started right up even with the old fuel pump on there.

Well once again thanks for any and all advice and I will be pricing a new fuel tank kit today. This should get her on the road, then I can address the rusted (not a lot but still bothers me) wheels and the horrible 1990’s cassette deck they put in (only complaint about the car, it is just so out of place with the rest of the car). i was Surprised the 289 actually had “ford motor comp” stamped on it. Don’t see too many 289's with the stamp if that makes sense.
Just remembered the hub caps were in the trunk, maybe I should put those on. Keep it looking original so to speak.
 

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Before you hookup the gas line to that new tank be sure to blow out that line again, bound to have pulled some crud up in there. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
At first I was not too much into the color and the interior but it has grown on me. After looking on the forum and seeing all the projects and the bad shape their in, I really got lucky. As a broke college student there is no doubt I couldn’t take on a full restore project. Maybe the Ford gods looked down on me and gave me a break with this one. After emptying my savings, this will probably be the best 3100 I have ever spent. Thanks again for the kind words and advice.
 

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Agree with the rest on the fuel tank. Fought the same problem with a boat for months. The gas dried and left varnish, which kept plugging everything up as if flaked off the side of the tank.
A note on the Cragers. I have the same, and they sat outside for 5 years. Some super fine steel wool, a little metal polish, and a couple of hours and they look better than new.
 

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Looks like the Palomino interior? I have that in my coupe and I get alot of compliments! (different from the black or red)
 

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Sweet ride! My 65 coupe was sitting for 7 years too until i purchased it in December of 2010. I went through all the same steps you did but i also replaced my tank. This all came about because my car just died on me one day. After finding that my new fuel filter was completely clogged up i pulled the tank out and cleaned it up. Then I went online and ordered a tank kit from CJ pony parts for $106.21 received it three weeks ago and its been fine ever since :)

Good luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the compliments guys, actually it’s more of an olive green color. I think it’s called Ivy gold. These are the only pics I have so far and they are from my crappy cell phone camera.
The 289 sounds and runs good (so far) I assume it has to be the fuel tank and the sending unit. Something told me to replace those from the start. Now the question is do I order a kit from Cj’s for 124.95 and wait for delivery or order one from a local shop (Here in Houston) for 159.95 with no wait???? How is CJ's, can i get any recommendations on a good Mustang parts company, any local shops in Houston?
 

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CJ are great and I believe they have free shipping. order it from them and it will be at you're house within 3 days

When I order parts on monday they are usually on the front porch by wednesday
 

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When I ordered mine from cj it was on special...and on back order:( so mine took a week and a half to arrive..but sure enough four days after my card was charged my tank arrived n I installed it that same day:)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
How often do people change the drum brakes to disc brakes and the steering to power steering? Which one is recommended to be done first? Are they both a “must change” situation? Any estimate on prices for both conversions? Sorry for all the questions.
 

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Usually disk brakes are more of the "must have", at least the fronts (70% of the stopping power (% may be off but it's significantly higher)). Some will argue that drums set up properly are just fine, my personal choice is to go with disks. The power steering is more of a personal choice.

There are quite a few different kits for the disk brake conversions... a search on here will turn up more discussions than probably necessary to read (costs will vary depending on the kit you use, doing it yourself etc... but all should be well under $1k). Here comes the real cost of restoring one of these... while you're under the front end doing the disk conversion you might as well check out the suspension, and steering components (bushings etc), and strongly consider the http://http://www.mustangbarn.com/Arningdrop.html. Templates can be found online, just get the alignment done to "shelby specs" after.
 
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