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I was doing a little carb tuning in the garage the other day and had headlights on for load and noticed the headlights would cut on/off on their own. I ordered a new switch from NPD and just installed it this morning (5 minute job)

upon examination of the factory switch (yep stamped correctly and had autolite stamped on it) i am surprised my headlights worked at all!!! The porcelain wheels was tilted off of the two tiny tabs it rotates on causing the contractor to be intermittent and barely made contact.

just wanted to validate how it easy it is....and state that you should probably change yours as a preventative maintenance, i know this has been discussed a million times on here but it's a good reminder.

ignition switch is probably next.
 

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I changed mine our as well. With all the stuff running through it I just felt safer.
 

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just wanted to validate how it easy it is....and state that you should probably change yours as a preventative maintenance, i know this has been discussed a million times on here but it's a good reminder.
If you have the factory switch I would leave it in until it fails as many of the aftermarket/repro switches on the market are crap. C-R-A-P. This has been discussed many times here on VMF. If you must replace 'proactively' they only buy a new MOTORCRAFT switch.

Paul
 

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Similar story here. When I got my '66 GT from its second owner back in February, he told me the GT lights hadn't worked in years. I said ok...no biggie. So I flip the switch, nothing, but I noticed it seems rally loose. So reach behind the dash in the general location and felt a loose wire...so I thought. When I pulled on it slightly, the entire back half of the switch fell off in the floor. I guess that's why???
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
If you have the factory switch I would leave it in until it fails as many of the aftermarket/repro switches on the market are crap. C-R-A-P. This has been discussed many times here on VMF. If you must replace 'proactively' they only buy a new MOTORCRAFT switch.

Paul
it failed so that is what drove the replacement. I didn't get the rotorcraft one :frown2: Mine is from SUNTEX...live and learn. When it goes out I will order a MOTORCRAFT one
 

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it failed so that is what drove the replacement. I didn't get the rotorcraft one :frown2: Mine is from SUNTEX...live and learn. When it goes out I will order a MOTORCRAFT one
Do the headlight relay conversion and your Suntex will probably never go out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Do the headlight relay conversion and your Suntex will probably never go out.
that is a winter project for the upcoming winter. I plan to do a new headlight wire harness with the built in relays. I will also wire up my GT FOG lights the PO added. still debating on yellow or keeping the clear bulbs. Plan is take the entire grill out, paint, do the wiring, replace any pieces that need replacing and put everything back together.
 

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I changed mine our as well. With all the stuff running through it I just felt safer.
Yep, I run a relay as well. And it also made a huge difference with the lights.
 

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Hey, I may still have my stock headlight switch. It does work IIRC. I'm in the middle of moving right now so it is somewhere in a sea of parts boxes. Send me a PM in about a week and I'll see if I can dig it out for you. If you want to replace your suntex.
 

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The porcelain wheel with the two contacts are for dimming the dash lights and do not affect headlight operation. Also, the rod with the knob on it keeps that porcelain wheel in place while it is in the dash. Once you pull the rod out, the position of the wheel and the contacts is moved and is not indicative of where they were positioned while the switch was installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The porcelain wheel with the two contacts are for dimming the dash lights and do not affect headlight operation. Also, the rod with the knob on it keeps that porcelain wheel in place while it is in the dash. Once you pull the rod out, the position of the wheel and the contacts is moved and is not indicative of where they were positioned while the switch was installed.
you are correct on all account, however when i reinserted the rod the porcelain piece would still come off contact. I had issues with the dash light in the past as well. I think the internal portion (headlights) was worn along with the plastic piece that the rod slides through..along with weak spring pressure for the porcelain wheel made the whole switch operation wacky.
 
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