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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hola friends, i have a person trying to sell a K code coupe here in California and I am not sure if i believe it's real . Seems like a perfectly nice guy and i have no reaosn to believe he is not telling the truth.

BUT:
-Original motor is not there, he said it's a rebuilt 289
-Door plate looks brand new so I wonder if it's fake but you can get new ones from Marty
-Vin appears to properly stamped on the frame

I think they all came with a 9" rear end so i will check for that, but what else?

Is there any worth to a K code coupe w/out the HiPo motor?

Not sure if it has disc brakes, did the K code come with disc?

Car needs a few paint touch ups but other than that seems in great shape. He is asking $26.9 which i think is high but let's forget about that for now.
 

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That actually doesn't look like a bad price for a K-code coupe, even without its original motor. Good info above, definitely look at the transmission and other VIN stampings. Look inside the fender at the underside of the top VIN stamp as well, for any sign of tampering. There's a rough line below the characters that could just be a painted over edge of old paint, or it could be lazy coverup work by someone who swapped VINs.

Even if that were just a regular A-code car, the price might be a little high, but not outrageous compared to what others are selling for. If it's a real K I think it's absolutely a fair price.
 

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It has the OE disc/drum master cylinder so it almost certainly has front disc brakes.

The battery has been relocated and the windshield washer stuff is missing. It's definitely not all OE stock so if you want to put it back to original you'll have to factor in fixing that stuff and whatever else has been molested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just because its in california do the watere test on cowl and show us some underside pics and rear wheel sheet metal wheel opening pics
For now this is the additional of what he sent. It is a 9"
 

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Does the seller have the old door tag?

Do the sheet metal date stamps correlate with the date code on the new door tag (and when that VIN would have been made on the assembly line)?

To me the apron K looks a little tilted from the rest of the characters.
 

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It has the OE disc/drum master cylinder so it almost certainly has front disc brakes.

The battery has been relocated and the windshield washer stuff is missing. It's definitely not all OE stock so if you want to put it back to original you'll have to factor in fixing that stuff and whatever else has been molested.
The washer was optional in 1965.

I see nothing in the photos which would cause me to doubt the authenticity of the car as a K code. Of course, before plunking down the cash, I'd want it checked by someone who knew what they were seeing. The K code increases the value of the car by 50%, in this case minus the cost of replacing the engine. Or rebuilding it as a K engine.

It would be perfectly possible to replicate all of the external cues of a 289HP engine, and in fact fully duplicate the internals as well. Which IMHO would be worth doing.

FWIW, the rear axle housing appears to be the later style.
 
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If it has the original 4 speed in it, the VIN should be stamped on the bottom of the transmission on the main case. Look at the rear of the case at the bottom, towards the ground and before where the tailshaft meets up with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Does the seller have the old door tag?

Do the sheet metal date stamps correlate with the date code on the new door tag (and when that VIN would have been made on the assembly line)?

To me the apron K looks a little tilted from the rest of the characters.
Dude you have laser vision, you are right the K does look tilted....but if he only stamped the K i would think we would see the other character somewhere no?
 

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Hola friends, i have a person trying to sell a K code coupe here in California and I am not sure if i believe it's real . Seems like a perfectly nice guy and i have no reaosn to believe he is not telling the truth.

BUT:
-Original motor is not there, he said it's a rebuilt 289
-Door plate looks brand new so I wonder if it's fake but you can get new ones from Marty
-Vin appears to properly stamped on the frame

I think they all came with a 9" rear end so i will check for that, but what else?

Is there any worth to a K code coupe w/out the HiPo motor?

Not sure if it has disc brakes, did the K code come with disc?

Car needs a few paint touch ups but other than that seems in great shape. He is asking $26.9 which i think is high but let's forget about that for now.
The "K" code Mustangs did have disc brakes.
I couldn't tell from the pics supplied.
The "K" code appears to be authentic on the door jam tag, but especially so on the inside fender apron under the hood.
The price is high, particularly without the original engine, which is where most of the value is.
The rear-end certainly looks like a 9" unit.
There should be a metal tag on one of the housing bolts, typically nearer the top side.0000
Hola friends, i have a person trying to sell a K code coupe here in California and I am not sure if i believe it's real . Seems like a perfectly nice guy and i have no reaosn to believe he is not telling the truth.

BUT:
-Original motor is not there, he said it's a rebuilt 289
-Door plate looks brand new so I wonder if it's fake but you can get new ones from Marty
-Vin appears to properly stamped on the frame

I think they all came with a 9" rear end so i will check for that, but what else?

Is there any worth to a K code coupe w/out the HiPo motor?

Not sure if it has disc brakes, did the K code come with disc?

Car needs a few paint touch ups but other than that seems in great shape. He is asking $26.9 which i think is high but let's forget about that for now.
The "K" in the VIN on the inside fender apron looks authentic along with the one on the door jam tag.
Without the original engine, where most of the value is, the price is high.
Can't tell about the disc brakes from the pics, but all K codes had them.
The rear looks to be a 9" unit.
There should be a metal tag on one of the rear pumpkin mounting bolts.
It will state the gear ratio and whether or not it is a limited slip type or not.
For instance, if it's a 3.91 ratio, the tag would read 3L91, the "L" meaning a Locking rear-end. No "L", no locking, but actually it'd be a limited slip, not a real "locked" rear.
(Just a technicality.)
Another way to tell if it's a limited slip is to jack the rear up so both rear wheels are off the ground. Turn one wheel by hand. If both wheels turn in the same direction, it's a limited slip type. If the wheels spin in opposite directions, it's an open rear end.
While jacked up U can tell the gear ratio too.
If U spin a wheel, 1 complete rotation and the drive shaft turns almost 4 turns, it's a 3.91 gear. If the drive shaft turns exactly 3 1/2 turns, it's a 3.50 rear gear and so on.
The HiPo tag under the front fender 289 call-out looks authentic too, but anybody could add them.
The HiPo engine had a dual point distributor and the harmonic balencer was nearly 2 inches thick. The standard balencer was about 3/4s of an inch thick.
It also had solid lifters and they typically clatter when the engine is running. 🙂
 

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The "K" code Mustangs did have disc brakes.
Can't tell about the disc brakes from the pics, but all K codes had them.
Only those built April 65 or later. Before that, disc brakes were not available at all, K code or not.
 

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That is NOT an original '65 OR 66 Mustang axle housing!!!! The '65 is a "round back" and the '66 ( looks like the one in the picture) has a large hex headed bolt to check fluid level that ISN'T on the housing in your picture and it not being there didn't happen until late '67. The VIN looks legit "to me" but 'I" think the entire drive train is replaced. You need to look for the special four piece HiPo motor mounts, HiPo exhaust manifolds. The price is good but why is all the drive train missing out of an otherwise nice car?
Randy
 
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