When I got the car, it was already stripped down to the shell, so the PO did that work. I don't have any idea how he did it.
KBL's 1970 Mustang Mach 1 Build
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Bummer.
The inserts on the repro covers aren't quite the same. One remedy is to have the originals swapped out and sewn into the new covers.
Norm
The inserts on the repro covers aren't quite the same. One remedy is to have the originals swapped out and sewn into the new covers.
Norm
I finally got around to painting the dash, steering column parts, and trap door this weekend. I really don't care for painting, probably because I am not good at it. I had set up a place in my garage where I can paint with tarps on top/bottom/sides, and once I get motivated, I eventually just get in there and do it.
As I was prepping everything for the paint, I noticed the PO had placed two holes in the dash, and after deliberating about it for a bit, decided to fix it. I epoxied a metal strip behind the two holes, then filled the top sides with epoxy. Using a technique I saw here before, I used an ice pick in an attempt to get the texture back. Not perfect, but where these two holes sit on the bottom of the dash, I doubt anyone will notice.
I now have the dash components all painted along with the steering column, the only thing I am missing is a car
The back story on that is - we were ready to go with the Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, but they let me know that it would cost over $4000 just in paint cost alone. A hard pill to swallow when they can get Grabber Blue for $3000 less. So, since I like both, and a lot of thoughts - i.e. painting the car an original color, easier paint when fixing scrapes and dings, and a few more things, decided to go with Grabber Blue. I talked the the body shop Friday, and the base coat is scheduled for paint this week! Woohoo.
![Grey Wood Automotive tire Font Monochrome photography]()
Painting setup with Dash, Trap Door, and Steering Column components.
![Automotive tire Audio equipment Gas Automotive exterior Personal protective equipment]()
Upper shows the holes before paint, lower after paint with holes fixed.
As I was prepping everything for the paint, I noticed the PO had placed two holes in the dash, and after deliberating about it for a bit, decided to fix it. I epoxied a metal strip behind the two holes, then filled the top sides with epoxy. Using a technique I saw here before, I used an ice pick in an attempt to get the texture back. Not perfect, but where these two holes sit on the bottom of the dash, I doubt anyone will notice.
I now have the dash components all painted along with the steering column, the only thing I am missing is a car
The back story on that is - we were ready to go with the Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, but they let me know that it would cost over $4000 just in paint cost alone. A hard pill to swallow when they can get Grabber Blue for $3000 less. So, since I like both, and a lot of thoughts - i.e. painting the car an original color, easier paint when fixing scrapes and dings, and a few more things, decided to go with Grabber Blue. I talked the the body shop Friday, and the base coat is scheduled for paint this week! Woohoo.
Painting setup with Dash, Trap Door, and Steering Column components.
Upper shows the holes before paint, lower after paint with holes fixed.
I got around to getting the steering column rebuild finished. As many have stated on here before, getting the silver and gold gears lined up in the lock cylinder correctly is not as easy as it seems, but I did have a photo of the position after pulling out the lock cylinder, so that helped. Oh, and I forgot to mention I did get burned one time by the column lock having moved and I couldn't get the key out. Took me a while before I remembered about that one.
I purchased new locks (using same key for ignition, doors, and trunk), and a new turn signal. The ignition switch and wiring seemed to be in great shape, so I am going to bench test that before I decide whether I am going to use it or not.
I ended up covering the collapsible column part with black tape. I had purchased a sleeve from West Coast Cougar to slide on there and then heat shrink, but there was no way I was ever getting that sleeve on, even with the instructions they provided.
![Automotive tire Bicycle part Bumper Gas Rim]()
![Bicycle part Gas Auto part Engineering Office ruler]()
I purchased new locks (using same key for ignition, doors, and trunk), and a new turn signal. The ignition switch and wiring seemed to be in great shape, so I am going to bench test that before I decide whether I am going to use it or not.
I ended up covering the collapsible column part with black tape. I had purchased a sleeve from West Coast Cougar to slide on there and then heat shrink, but there was no way I was ever getting that sleeve on, even with the instructions they provided.
So in the end, the blue won the paint decision over the gold? LOL
Nice choice, looks great
I replaced the spring that helps with the return of the key when starting, but it did not help the key to return back as I would expect. It ended up that the ignition switch had too much play in the sliding mechanism causing it to bind up a bit when operating the key. So I am waiting on a new switch to finish that mini-project out.
I decided to tackle the rear folding seats while I waited for that part. Now I probably didn't pay much attention to what was in style back in the 70's, but I have to admit, never thought red velvet would be the material / color of choice in the back of a 1970 mustang. I am going with carpet as a replacement.
My plan with this is to pull off the chrome trim, covering, etc., paint it, and then replace the chrome trim. I had read where some say the new repro trim doesn't fit all that well, but it has to be better than the condition of what I have. I already purchased it, so guess I will find out.
![Rectangle Wood Material property Tints and shades Gas]()
I decided to tackle the rear folding seats while I waited for that part. Now I probably didn't pay much attention to what was in style back in the 70's, but I have to admit, never thought red velvet would be the material / color of choice in the back of a 1970 mustang
. I am going with carpet as a replacement.My plan with this is to pull off the chrome trim, covering, etc., paint it, and then replace the chrome trim. I had read where some say the new repro trim doesn't fit all that well, but it has to be better than the condition of what I have. I already purchased it, so guess I will find out.
A quick update on activities:
I removed all of the material off of the fold down seats, and spent several hours scraping and grinding the glue off of the back of one of them - the PO went way overboard. For rust, I am using Evapo-Rust in a shallow plastic bin to get the rust off of the back side. It's not a lot, but it seems to be working well. Hope to start painting and install the carpet / trim this week.
I got the first part of my car back from the body shop - The front fenders. I wanted to keep the fenders and hood off the car but have the doors and trunk installed before I take it home. Once I get the engine installed, I will install the fenders and hood. The car looks great - very pleased with the result. I should receive the car in the next few weeks - they will be doing the final buffing and hood / tail stripes next.
![Vehicle Car Hood Wheel Tire]()
![Car Vehicle Hood Tire Wheel]()
![Vehicle Motor vehicle Car Hood Automotive design]()
On the steering column rebuild, I got the new ignition switch, and it works about the same. I am going to try one additional repro switch and make a decision from there. Everything works fine except the spring back from start. I have it adjusted properly so the key works in all positions, but it just doesn't spring back like it should consistently. I have probably had it apart 3 or 4 times, and the mechanism moves freely, so not sure what is going on.
I did build a turn signal cover plate from some extra metal I had laying around. You can't purchase this plate right now, but this should suffice once I get it painted. I used tin snips and a dremel tool.
![Material property Gas Cylinder Auto part Electric blue]()
I removed all of the material off of the fold down seats, and spent several hours scraping and grinding the glue off of the back of one of them - the PO went way overboard. For rust, I am using Evapo-Rust in a shallow plastic bin to get the rust off of the back side. It's not a lot, but it seems to be working well. Hope to start painting and install the carpet / trim this week.
I got the first part of my car back from the body shop - The front fenders. I wanted to keep the fenders and hood off the car but have the doors and trunk installed before I take it home. Once I get the engine installed, I will install the fenders and hood. The car looks great - very pleased with the result. I should receive the car in the next few weeks - they will be doing the final buffing and hood / tail stripes next.
On the steering column rebuild, I got the new ignition switch, and it works about the same. I am going to try one additional repro switch and make a decision from there. Everything works fine except the spring back from start. I have it adjusted properly so the key works in all positions, but it just doesn't spring back like it should consistently. I have probably had it apart 3 or 4 times, and the mechanism moves freely, so not sure what is going on.
I did build a turn signal cover plate from some extra metal I had laying around. You can't purchase this plate right now, but this should suffice once I get it painted. I used tin snips and a dremel tool.
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4,364 Posts
That's turning out great, bet it's a great feeling getting it to this stage.
I finally got finished up with the folding rear seats. I think they look pretty good. I went with new chrome trim and, of course, new carpet. I purchased the chrome trim from NPD, and it fit relatively well (Brand name was Corvex, Taiwan made), and the only issue I had with it was the flimsy piano hinge was slightly bent in the package, and the hinges are slightly scratched now once they were installed and straightened out by the screws. I buffed it out somewhat with steel wool and 2000 grit sand paper, but you can still see some of the scratches. Probably no one will notice, well except me
![Rectangle Bumper Automotive exterior Gas Automotive design]()
wow that's great, i'm about to start on mine so I have something to compare to. Before you put them in, can you post a pic of your back panel and trim assembly in the rear of the car, so that I can get an idea of all the pieces I need in the car prior to re-installation? I would really appreciate it. Car is looking great!
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700 Posts
My 70 was the exact same color combo. By the time I got it it had been repainted red, then grabber blue, with a mix of Medium ginger and black interior… She looks way better now than she did in 90’s when I bought her.
Unfortunately, my car is still at the paint shop, and I should have it soon, but not sure when I will get it installed. I have watched a few videos multiple times that may be of help:
Auto Restomod Episode 115
Auto Restomod Episode 116
How the Mustang Fold Down Seat Works
Great looking car! I thought hard about painting mine the original color, but decided against it, but have seen some great looking cars on the forum here in that color. I could never get comfortable with a ginger interior, so that color was easy.
I found this one too that I had saved. Old but I am sure still applicable:
hints to install folddown rear seat, my experience
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
I worked on the trap door and now have that ready to be installed. I had purchased a trap door that had speaker holes cut in them from @mqu02 and decided to purchase speakers and get the trap door set up for installation. I purchased speakers that are similar to what I have in my 66 and I like the sound, so I purchased these and they fit fairly well in the pre-cut holes. I just had to do some minor grinding to get them to sit in place.
I decided I wanted a box of some sort to protect the speakers both from anything placed in the trunk, or when something might be placed past the trap door when it is open. I wanted a domed box with smoothed edges, but after looking online for one (and unsuccessful), I finally decided to build a box from spare wood that I had. I am not sure how these will work with a donut spare tire, but for now I am good with it.
I ran 5 inch screws from the front, and this allowed me to attach the speakers securely into the hole, and also secure the box to the square part of the back of the trap door.
![Camera lens Motor vehicle Digital camera Camera Reflex camera]()
Here is a photo with the box installed:
![Black Bumper Rectangle Gas Font]()
and here are the speakers from the front:
![Grille Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle]()
I decided I wanted a box of some sort to protect the speakers both from anything placed in the trunk, or when something might be placed past the trap door when it is open. I wanted a domed box with smoothed edges, but after looking online for one (and unsuccessful), I finally decided to build a box from spare wood that I had. I am not sure how these will work with a donut spare tire, but for now I am good with it.
I ran 5 inch screws from the front, and this allowed me to attach the speakers securely into the hole, and also secure the box to the square part of the back of the trap door.
Here is a photo with the box installed:
and here are the speakers from the front:
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656 Posts
That turned out awesome! So glad you were able to use it, and nice job. Please post pictures when you get it installed too.
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