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1966 C Code Coupe / 1970 Mach 1 351C
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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
I made more progress this weekend, and glad to say that I am done with the Tilt Steering Wheel rebuild. I had mentioned sometime back that I couldn't get the ignition in the start position and have the spring return it back to the on position. I took it apart and used Fluid Film on all of the mechanisms that slide the ignition switch gears, and this fixed the problem --- but --- the switch would not bench test both start and accessory at the same time. I could have one or the other, but not both.
I decided to adjust the gold and silver gears by a tooth, and bam, it fixed it. So all along I had it one tooth off, but was positive I had put back it together as it was before. I suppose the PO may have had the same issue as me, and lived without the accessory switch not working maybe. In hind sight, if I had placed the gears properly in place, I think the return mechanism would have worked even without the Fluid Film since this placed the mechanism about a 1/4 inch closer to the switch and the return spring.
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On the steering wheel, I finally bit the bullet and purchased a rim blow steering wheel on eBay. It was in okay condition - wood grain wasn't cracked, but some of the plastic was cracked on the back. I was going to tackle the restoration myself, and watched numerous videos and read a lot of posts regarding this. After buying everything I needed, I chickened out and decided to send it off to the Rimblow Restorations in New Zealand. I got it sent on Friday, and if I believe his timeline, even with shipping, I should have it back in a month. I considered the restorers in the US, but this guy was highly recommended on numerous posts, and there has been some negative feedback recently on the guys here in the US. The cost with shipping included will be less than what they charge here and the repair time should be quicker.

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The last thing I did this weekend was finish up the exhaust manifolds. I had gone back and forth on whether to use the manifolds I have .vs. purchasing headers. I read a lot of opinions on it on multiple forums, and with my current experience on my 66 with long tube headers would make me lean toward shorties (distance from ground, fitment, access, etc). And then the comments on shorties makes me think that maybe they aren't that much better than the manifolds, plus the manifolds will fit and more than likely not leak. So I decided to go with the original manifolds (at least for now), and if I want to upgrade down the line I can. I got them cleaned up and painted with VHT Flameproof Cast Iron Grey Ceramic Coating, then heated them in my oven as per the instructions. I think they turned out good, but I guess I won't know how good until I get some miles on the engine. (First photo while being painted, second is after it had been heated in the oven for several cycles)

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1966 C Code Coupe / 1970 Mach 1 351C
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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
I installed the Dakota Digital gauges today in the instrument cluster. It was very straightforward and easy. I considered using the gauges that came in the car, but really wanted a tachometer, and as many have said here, the stock gauge cluster with a tach are close to unobtanium. I went with the RTX gauges, which look very close to stock and am happy with how they turned out. The harder part will be the wiring part of this, but looking forward to the challenge. Top photo was after I got it disassembled and cleaned up, the bottom with the gauges installed. The black plastic and wood grain are in good shape, but the chrome edging is missing in places, so I plan on using a liquid chrome pen to touch those areas up.
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Missed your Aug 1 post until now, glad to hear that you resolved your ignition switch issues. Manifolds look good and hopefully hold up for you. I ended up getting Sanderson shorty headers for mine years ago, I'm pleased with them so far.

I've got the RTX gauges on the shelf for mine, definitely like the look of them. Are you or did you rewrire your car? If so did you use the ACC harness?
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Missed your Aug 1 post until now, glad to hear that you resolved your ignition switch issues. Manifolds look good and hopefully hold up for you. I ended up getting Sanderson shorty headers for mine years ago, I'm pleased with them so far.

I've got the RTX gauges on the shelf for mine, definitely like the look of them. Are you or did you rewrire your car? If so did you use the ACC harness?
I have the AAW harness kit, and that is what I am going to start looking at next. @RIBS had some good input on it in his build thread, and I figure the 71 should be somewhat similar to the 70 kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Sometimes you head down a rabbit hole and wonder, was it worth it. Actually I am fine with the results, but it took a lot more time than I expected.

The silver bezel in the instrument cluster was sun faded, and I couldn't get the touch up paint to ever look decent, so I decided to paint those. A bit of a pain, especially the taping part, but happy with the end result. I used a liquid chrome pen for the other parts that were mssing chrome (and there were lots of missing chrome) - thanks @RIBS for the Chrome Pen recommendation.
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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
After getting my dash instrument cluster finished up, I noticed that the console insert that I had ordered - Light Teak, was too light. I figured I must have Walnut, so I ordered one of those - Wrong, way too dark. I then ordered the a Scott Drake Teak insert, and it was the closest, but still not that close. I ordered from three different places, all were branded differently, but all were made by the same company - Classic Automotive. Guess I will go with the Teak (which is the middle in the photo below), unless I find a better option. Makes me wonder what the door insert colors will look like.
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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Well today was a big day for me - I got delivery of my car from the body shop. If you read the first post, you will have realized it was there just over 1-1/2 years. They did do a lot of work for me, but definitely slower than I was originally told, However, I had so much to do with the other items that needed work that I think it worked out in the end. In addition, I was very happy with what they did and the communication along the way. I am ready to install just about everything, so now it is time to get to work.

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Guess you could say your halfway through the journey of the rebirth of your 70. It's looking great, with all the other components you've rebuilt while they had it you should have it together and driving in a couple of weeks. ;) Enjoy you taking us along on the journey so far and keeping us updated.
 

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After getting my dash instrument cluster finished up, I noticed that the console insert that I had ordered - Light Teak, was too light. I figured I must have Walnut, so I ordered one of those - Wrong, way too dark. I then ordered the a Scott Drake Teak insert, and it was the closest, but still not that close. I ordered from three different places, all were branded differently, but all were made by the same company - Classic Automotive. Guess I will go with the Teak (which is the middle in the photo below), unless I find a better option. Makes me wonder what the door insert colors will look like.
View attachment 855180
IMHO: The one on the left, though lighter, appears to be the best/better match in regards to the grain.
Very nice build!
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
IMHO: The one on the left, though lighter, appears to be the best/better match in regards to the grain.
Very nice build!
So about a year ago, I bought this vinyl film that I never used and can't even remember why I bought it. I came across it and held it up to the instrument panel, and it is a much closer match. I think I will just get everything installed, and if the insert stands out too much, I can use it. Bought it off Amazon - 3M DI-NOC WG-430 MARINE TEAK WOODGRAIN 15in x 12in Vinyl Film Series.
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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
As I was waiting for all of my steering and brake components, I decided to get the rear end close to the way I want it. I ended up getting new chrome for the tail lights, Vintage LED sequential tail lights, and was able to reuse the original buckets and lenses.

I also decided to do the blackout on the rear panel, using this website as a guide -> Black Out Area

I still have to mount the honeycomb panel and trim (which I also bought as the one I had looked to be damaged from gas spills). A bit worried on this as I have to drill holes, but probably not as nervous as I was sanding the area needed for the blackout paint.

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One decision I have to make is whether I want the side lights in the rear. I did not know that the quarter panels did not have those cut, so it wasn't until I ordered the vintage LEDS and they asked if I needed the side lights, and I said - oops, didn't realize I should have them. Will ponder on that one for a bit, and maybe get the body shop to cut them since I am not sure I can do it cleanly.

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
I finished up with everything on the rear! I was happy with how the bumper fit, the black out treatment , lights, etc. I was frustrated with the lid though. It is a repo, and of course I wanted perfect lines, and after about 3 or 4 days adjusting it (on and off), It wasn't ever going to be perfect. Overall I am good with it, but frustrating it didn't fit better coming from the body shop. And it is probably off maybe 1/16 to 1/8", but that is why I would never be a good body shop guy, I wouldn't know when to move on.

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I started on the front suspension, drum to disc brake conversion, and power steering setup. I used @CHOCK for all of the brakes and steering including a rebuild of the steering box and PS pump. I went with Moog for all of the replacement UCA/LCA's and tie rods. I ended up buying a spring compressor .vs. renting one, as I wanted the one that locks into the spring perch which seemed safer. Plus, I think the springs I have may need to be cut down a bit, but until I get the engine in, I won't know. I was able to get the old stuff out without stripping any bolts (at least on one side) so now I will start on the install process. While I am at it, plan on purchasing a @zray cross member.

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