Nice progress, it's looking good, keep chugging along and you'll get there before you know it.
I'm not sure exactly what your situation is, I read it as there are some pin holes in a place that the plate from the auto air will cover anyway. In that case I think you'll be ok as long as air and moisture can't get to the formerly rusting steel. I'd slather epoxy on both sides if you can get to it. Maybe after epoxy do some flowable seam sealer or cavity wax or both from the top. Keep in mind that stuff is very messy...The Por-15 epoxy putty, or something different like JB Weld?
Edit - Oh, I see what you mean now - Epoxy primer/paint .vs. the Por-15 Rust Encapsulator. That makes sense since it is already has epoxy on it.
So after reading a lot of methods to fix my cowl problem (and having fixed one on my 66 a few years back, I decided to use this method:
I first cleaned/degreased it, and then I used metal prep on the area. I decided to use rust preventative coating on both sides. Even though the drivers side doesn't leak, you could tell the epoxy primer didn't get toward the back of both cowl areas.
After that, I used epoxy putty and squeezed it into each of the holes, verifying that it was protruding through the pin hole from below. The photo below shows the pin holes with epoxy, and the paint is what spilled over from painting it from below with rust preventative coating.
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I then painted the cowl with rust preventative coating, which also covered all of the epoxy plugs I had installed.
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I did a water test and none of the pin holes leaked. Afterward, I did notice that the area where the pin holes were have water that doesn't doesn't drain out like it should. My plan, once I get the self leveling seam sealer I ordered, is to put that down so it has a nice flat surface back to the drain hole and then top coat the entire cowl.
I did get the CAA unit installed. As @RIBS stated in his install, the directions are not written well - some are carry overs from their earlier models, and you just have to figure out what they mean. Also kudos to him on telling me to install before I put in the dash - It was much easier that way.
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I had a little trouble with the length/bends also on the rear classic tube set i bought. took a good bit of bending to get it to fit.Next up was the fuel and brake lines. I went with the Classic Tube pre-bent lines, and the fuel line went in with little issue. On the brake lines, I had a few issues - mainly in the front because my brake hose mount was in a different place since I was using the 1967 disc brakes. It required me to shorten both sides and reflare. On the line going to the rear brake block that splits the flow, the pre-bent line was too long. In my effort to bend it to shorten it, I kinked it, and since these lines are made with reinforced tubing around the areas to bend, I had to do a splice. Not a big deal, but didn't want to do that. The splice is in the driveshaft tunnel and secured between two clamps, so it should be fine.
Good Idea! Thanks for the tiplooks awesome! My CAA unit had a block off plate and does not allow external air, so i made an aluminum cover for my fresh air intake(the top of the top hat). And I sealed it on with silicone. Think similar to an upside down pie pan. Think about that so your intake doesn’t become a bowl of water that won’t drain….