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I would put a pressure gauge on the cooling system as a first step. That would remove a lot of guesswork. Are the pressure normal or do it act strange? Do it rise, but only if you really push the engine?
 

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jdub,

TRE is not a fly by might engine builder. They have a very good name and build a quality product. It is worth an email or call to Paul just to see if he has any insight about the problem. If this is a 5.0 roller block , there could be other problems causing this . Nascar teams used to "pin" the freeze plugs in the block by drilling small holes for rivets to keep the plugs in place. I like using the Ford racing screw in plugs and have the taps to do it myself. We don't get freezing cold weather in California so I'm OK doing it.
Despite being six years old , I'm sure Paul will help you to figure this out.
Randy
 

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jdub,

TRE is not a fly by might engine builder. They have a very good name and build a quality product. It is worth an email or call to Paul just to see if he has any insight about the problem. If this is a 5.0 roller block , there could be other problems causing this . Nascar teams used to "pin" the freeze plugs in the block by drilling small holes for rivets to keep the plugs in place. I like using the Ford racing screw in plugs and have the taps to do it myself. We don't get freezing cold weather in California so I'm OK doing it.
Despite being six years old , I'm sure Paul will help you to figure this out.
Randy

I'd like to know more about this tap- where can you get them or at least the diameter and thread pitch. I think that would be a cool add if I my engine ever comes out.:yoho:
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
TRE is not a fly by might engine builder. They have a very good name and build a quality product. It is worth an email or call to Paul just to see if he has any insight about the problem. If this is a 5.0 roller block , there could be other problems causing this . Nascar teams used to "pin" the freeze plugs in the block by drilling small holes for rivets to keep the plugs in place. I like using the Ford racing screw in plugs and have the taps to do it myself. We don't get freezing cold weather in California so I'm OK doing it. Despite being six years old , I'm sure Paul will help you to figure this out.
"I spent $1000 having the freeze plugs of an engine I bought from you six years ago for $1300 replaced because three of them fell out on the dyno?" How exactly do you think that conversation will go? I just don't see a good ending that is worth my time. Do you know him personally?

I have actually not read one other good thing about them on the internet other than what you wrote.
 

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I'd like to know more about this tap- where can you get them or at least the diameter and thread pitch. I think that would be a cool add if I my engine ever comes out.:yoho:
1-1/2 NPT . For a 289-351 you need 2 taps. One "regular" and one shortened by 3/4ths of an inch to "deepen" the threads so the plug will be flush with the block. The "regular" tap hits the cylinder walls before the tapped hole is large enough.
Randy
 

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"I spent $1000 having the freeze plugs of an engine I bought from you six years ago for $1300 replaced because three of them fell out on the dyno?" How exactly do you think that conversation will go? I just don't see a good ending that is worth my time. Do you know him personally?

I have actually not read one other good thing about them on the internet other than what you wrote.
PM sent.
 

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Is this why the Boss had screw-in plugs, was it actually just water pump and normal heat pressure?
History of your block? Maybe it just has very excessive corrosion around the holes. I used some type III on mine but I really don't think it has much strength to it. I do know that some core plugs have noticeably deeper lips than others that ensure they are more square. One more and I'd be reaching for the JB Weld for every one.
The Boss engines has screw in plugs because they supposedly strengthened the block.
 

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The only time I've had a freeze plug pop was after letting a machine shop install them (conveniently the same shop that screwed up my 428).

I've always used either Permatex #2 or Shellac to install them, never had one pop since.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Yep. This is why I'm never, ever, ever paying another ******* to do engine assembly for me. Even if they get it right 99% of the time it's not good enough if I end up being the 1%. Plus locals are all sketchy and nobody in their right mind wants to do mail order engine warranty work. Paying someone else is lose-lose-lose in my experience.
 

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Yep. This is why I'm never, ever, ever paying another ******* to do engine assembly for me. Even if they get it right 99% of the time it's not good enough if I end up being the 1%. Plus locals are all sketchy and nobody in their right mind wants to do mail order engine warranty work. Paying someone else is lose-lose-lose in my experience.
Yep, I used to be a big advocate of supporting local machine shops. Turns out most of them suck too and don't want to honor their work.

If I ever have to build another motor, I'm buying a nice mic and doing everything myself- I don't trust anyone :).
 

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Local or not, most people focus on the lowest price and not what goes into a build. It’s the parts, machine work, assembly and tuning but once again people focus on the lowest price. We have people send us engines from all over the country to be rebuilt, some right after it was rebuilt by the local machine shop. To build an engine properly, you need hot tanks(preferably one to strip it and one after machine work) balance machine, align hone machine, CNC to square deck and bore, hone to torque plate hone cylinders,-profilometer to check proper finish, etc. Point is if you can’t trust any machine shop to build it, how do you know it’s even machine correctly? You get what you pay for, lots of good machine shops out there if one is willing to pay for it.
 
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