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Discussion Starter #1
I’m trying to align a 15200 bell on a 302 and well I can’t believe it’s off by this much.
When I run a dial indicator on the crank and fly wheel I only get 0.002” fluctuation.
When I run the dial on the inside of the opening I get 0.018” fluctuation.
When I run the dial on the bell where the trans mounts I find the lower half of the bell housing needs to move forward by 0.015”.
I have a 164-tooth flywheel and it doesn’t rub anywhere so could the hole on the bell be off? Do I only accept that hole for the input shaft is in the perfect spot on the bell? I can get the dowel pins but I started to think that maybe it’s the bell and not my engine. The bell is new and the mounting surface on the engine is perfectly clean. No burrs and no paint on the back of the engine or the front of the bell! I even went as far as sanding the paint off on the bell but all that did was get red dust all over me. I also have all of the bolts torqued to specifications.
The Ford manual says that you could shim the bell but I don’t know if that such a good idea. I’ve been farting around with this for 3 days to see if I missed something but all seems good.
 

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I can't speak to the Lakewood issues, other than to say "get a Mcleod".

The Mcleod bells are setup at the factory and come with all the numbers on a sticker that is fixed to the bell.

I know... this is not really helping, but I had to say it anyway.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
This is what I got back from Lakewood/Mr.Gasket! Do you agree?

The only proper alignment check should be taken from inside the bore.

http://go.mrgasket.com/AskTechResults.aspx?BrandID=1&ID=134114

I responded with this,

According to the factory Ford manual the Face Alignment must also be checked. This is done to ensure that the flywheel is parallel to the transmission mounting surface. The check is done by attaching the magnetic base to the flywheel and running the dial indicator on the outside face one inch out from the bore opening. 0.005” is the maximum variation allowed.
 

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Actually, your numbers you first posted aren't that far off. Offset dowels come in .007, .014 and .021, I believe. The .014 ought to get you within .005. Sounds like you're running a Tremec of some sorts. Tremec calls for some tight tolerances. If your running a toploader, your numbers will probably work because the Ford manual calls for .014 runnout. Get some really thin sheet metal (not sure what gauge that'll be) and use it to shim the top of the bellhousing. That should get the vertical surfaces parallel.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
0.018" is the total on the bore so I need to /2 and I have a 0.009" and the 0.007" pins will fix it I guess. I have a toploader 4 speed and the tolerances for the face alignment came from the 1968 shop manual. It says 0.005" max and I get 0.015" with the lakewood.
 

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I used to use Lakewoods years ago. But every time I checked them they were way off so I switched to Mcleod.They are always right on. The only to get it right is buy the Lakewood dowel set up. What you do is drill out the dowel pin hole in the bell. Then you move the bell around until you get it centered to the center of the crank. I use a dial indicator mounted to the end of the crank and just keep playing with it until centered. Then you take the other part of the dowel pin kit(looks like a large washer) and weld it to the bell. Then your good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So they sell you something to correct their mistake and it cancels the SFI rating because you had welded something to the bell.
 

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Now you know why I stopped using Lakewood and started using McLeod.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So what should I do about the face alignment? I’ve sent 5 more emails to Lakewood but they are not responding to them. I’m going to give them a call on Monday because I’m off from work.
 

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So what should I do about the face alignment? I’ve sent 5 more emails to Lakewood but they are not responding to them. I’m going to give them a call on Monday because I’m off from work.
Face alignment is adjusted by adding shims/washers between the block plate and block at the mounting bolts.

I went through the same BS with my Lakewood (Used the Lakewood Dowel kit) now that it's all dialed in everything works fine. But knowing what I know now, will only buy McLeod in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks,anybody else?

I’m going to do it this way and Lakewood/Mr.Gasket is useless. I called the tech line and the guy must not see it on the computer so he said there is no need to check the face alignment. What a D%#& Bag! How could they have people like that working there? What’s next outsourcing to India? :pissed:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wouldn’t you know it! I got a whole mess of emails returned to me from Lakewood telling me how to check the face alignment. It probably took them this long to find a Ford manual and copy it.

Of course they tell me how to check it and not how to correct it. :wall:

I have an Ace Hardware store at the end of my street but have been too busy to stop there. :eek: I’m going to try the washers.
 

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Not sure what kind of dowels you guys are referring to, but the Lakewood offset dowels I used were just that, offset dowels. You put them in the block, turn them with the screwdriver slot until they center it, then tighten it down. No welding, no drilling.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Talking about getting the face of the trans parallel with the back of the block surface. Those dowel pins do not align the bell so that the surfaces are parallel.
 

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Agreed, I was referring to the previous post on centering, not paralleling, which isn't a word but it's going to work for now. I didn't even think about that when I did mine, I just aligned it with the crank and went on my way. For the amount you are out, I would consider taking it to a machine shop and having them angle mill it by .015 or whatever it is off. This will give you a true surface that won't effect the integrity of the unit. I can't imagine them charging more than $30 or so.
 
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