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I've located an 89 5.0 motor and was wondeirng what all i needed to get to slide 'er in. I was flipping though the NPD catalog and noticed a section on all the parts to install them. I got curious as this is an extensive amount of parts and money and was wondering how much of it is necessary.
And, im planning to change it from fuel injection to carburated for now, might switch back later.
 

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You will definitely need the proper 50 oz imbalance flywheel that matches your transmission type and you will need a special 50 oz imbalance harmonic balancer for V belt pulleys. I don't have that catalog so I can't see all the other things they suggest....can you list them?
 

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I've located an 89 5.0 motor and was wondeirng what all i needed to get to slide 'er in. I was flipping though the NPD catalog and noticed a section on all the parts to install them. I got curious as this is an extensive amount of parts and money and was wondering how much of it is necessary.
And, im planning to change it from fuel injection to carburated for now, might switch back later.
It does get pretty involved:

First you need to decide whether you want to keep the 5.0 serpentine belt and pulleys or convert it to the old V-groove style.

Each has it's own means to an end.

Then you can talk about:
harmonic balancers (hard to find 3 bolt 50oz offset)
water pumps
timing covers
coolant hoses
and the like.

*flex plates and flywheel applications for your tranmission someone else needs to chime in about.

Luckily most of the parts from you current car (if it has a 302) will swap over to the 5.0 engine.

But you are pretty much going to need:
-air pump block off plugs for the cylinder heads

Everything else is up in the air.

www.gt350clone.com has good info on conversion.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Since I'm keeping the C4 here is what NPD says i need

5.0 oil pan
steel or bronze dist gear (to retain original dist)
50 oz flexplate
50 oz balancer to keep the v-belt
motor mounts
radiator, high efficiency style
upper and lower hoses
starter, mini-torque to clear headers
shorty headers

Thats everything they list.
And yes there is a 302 in the car at this moment.
 

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5.0 oil pan - 302 PAN AND PICKUP SHOULD WORK.
steel dist gear (dont use bronze) - NAPA SELLS THEM AND SO DOES FRPP
50 oz flexplate - AGAIN FORD RACING AND FORD MAY HAVE A NUMBER
50 oz balancer to keep the v-belt - TUFF TO FIND AS IT IS A CUSTOM PIECE, MOST RUN 150-175, SEARCH THE NET - I think you may have a 4 bolt pulley on your car. Ford changed somewhere in the 69-71 era from 3 bolt pulleys to 4 bolt, if that is the case, you need the 50oz 4 bolt pulley for a v-groove application.
motor mounts - IT IS GOOD TO REPLACE THEM AS LONG AS YOU HAVE THE ENGINE OUT.
radiator, high efficiency style - OK, ALWAYS A GOOD MOD.
upper and lower hoses - GOOD TO REPLACE WHILE YOU ARE THERE
starter, mini-torque to clear headers - YOU DONT REALLY NEED THIS
shorty headers - YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO USE YOUR ORIGINAL MANIFOLDS

And you need to swap or purchase new:
water pump
timing cover
fuel pump
fuel pump eccentric from the cam shaft
replace the timing chain and gears while your there.
complete engine gasket set (easier that way)
distributor.
smog passage plugs
your oil pan dipstick will also move with the timing cover/oil pan swap
and many obvious items.

heck, if the engine is good and you have a couple extra bucks. swap the roller cam while you are in there. ;) Like the E303 or something to operate with an auto tranny.

I am not 100% positive what you need to do for the 71-73 cars, but I think the factory mustang oil pan should fit. But if you do swap swap the pan and the pickup. Or better yet get a new OP&PICKUP (factory replacement) for durability purposes.

How many miles are on the engine? Does it run recently? Has it been serviced regularly and clean inside? ...and so on. I am thinking you found a relatibely low milage engine that a friend of your has or someone you trust.

If not, have a good mechanic go over it prior to purchase.
 

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Have an 89 HO with ported E7 heads, balanced, B303. Putting this motor in a 65 Mustang, was able to use the entire V-belt setup, early timing cover-with cannister 65 fuel pump, early alum waterpump, new orig motor mount pads on 66 mount brackets, a new, original to 65 config, 4 row rad and shroud, Hi-po exh. manifolds, "Shelby" lettered alum hi-rise intake-500 cfm Edelcrock, original style starter to meet up with the C-4-trans-go shift kit, that had the correct flexplate, also, correct dampener from Total Performance in Mich. Used an original rebuilt 66 dist with a steel gear and Pertronix along with their coil. With 3/8" spacers made by me, after having blanks sheared out of billet stock, cutting them to valve cover gasket template. was then able to use Cobra open letter valve covers. A long hot afternoon with a borrowed HD sabre saw. Painted black , same as engine, spacers were hardly noticeable.(spacers on market are too tall) Used all the original 65 AC bracketry except for dog leg which wasn't needed with Sanden comp. Used an original oilpan, With the exception of the Sanden comp, the engine looked very close to orig. Even the pertronix coil had an early coil decal and the top was carefully sprayed John Deere yellow. Shrink tubing helped conceal the extra wire. Had a custom fuel pump to carb line made that followed 65 routing, along with clamp to water pump, but was extended to meet up with the Edelcrock inlet that had a "banjo fitting" from Summit. Used the 65 style engine dress up kit. Worked for me. Car was sold with a 289 back in and now getting ready to install that motor in a 66 with a 90 EFI setup. That particular motor was sold by Ford Motorspot in 1990 or so. It now has 14,000 miles on it. Am losing the B303 in favor of a stock cam. Running this motor with a Lentech AOD. Everyone, but eveyone dissed the B303 and have to agree. It worked well in the carbed version, but not recommended for my current use. Hope this helps someone. :)
 

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Since I'm keeping the C4 here is what NPD says i need.
5.0 oil pan
steel or bronze dist gear (to retain original dist)
50 oz flexplate
50 oz balancer to keep the v-belt
motor mounts
radiator, high efficiency style
upper and lower hoses
starter, mini-torque to clear headers
shorty headers
Here' my take on what you need:
You can use your old oil pan & a matching pickup.

It seems to me that bronze gears wear out too fast. Ford Racing, Autozone, and summitt all sell steel gears for about $40.

You do need a 50oz flexplate to keep the C4; a TCI unit is sold by summitt for about $60.

You dont need a special balancer; your 71-later 302 has a 4-bolt pulley setup, so I'd use the 5.0 balancer and your original pulleys and brackets. If the 5.0 dampner is old and wore out, a place like Dampner Doctor can rebuild it for about $65.

You would only need motor mounts if yours are worn out, if they are, just get new stock ones. Anything you might hear about special motor mounts needed for the 5.0 is BS.

Hi-effiency radiator? only if yours is unknown, and I wouldn't get it from NPD, too durn expensive.

Special hoses? No, but if I got a new radiator, I'd get new stock hoses. When using the stock-style radiatior and stock-style waterpump, everything is on the correct side, eliminating the need for special hoses.

Mini-starter? Good idea with headers, otherwise its usually a waste. I wouldn't get it at NPD; one off of a fox or V6 SN95 should be almost identical to most aftermarket mini-starters. I found a local starter shop willing to sell me a mini-starter (professionally rebuilt in his shop) for $65.

Shorty headers? Sure, if you want them, but stock 71-73 302 manifolds wiil work fine.

Whew! Sorry that was so long! I hope this helps.
--Kyle
 

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I've seen those 50oz 137 tooth flexplates on ebay for $35 now. I paid almost $100 for mine a year ago!
 

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50 oz balancer to keep the v-belt - TUFF TO FIND AS IT IS A CUSTOM PIECE, MOST RUN 150-175, SEARCH THE NET - I think you may have a 4 bolt pulley on your car. Ford changed somewhere in the 69-71 era from 3 bolt pulleys to 4 bolt, if that is the case, you need the 50oz 4 bolt pulley for a v-groove application.
Speedwaymotors has 3 and 4 bolt (both paterns tapped) 50 oz imbalance harmonic dampers here for $60. I have one and they seem to be good quality.
Daniel
 
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