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I noticed there are a lot of previous discussions regarding lead and zinc additives but trying to get more specific to my engine.
My 71 Mach 1 has a 351 4V Winsor (replaced factory 302 2V). I have no idea when, how old or how many miles are on this engine.
Owned the car going in 3 years. I had my value covers replaced 1.5 years ago and the mechanic said everything looked very clean and good.
I have been using premium gas, I have put RXP in twice and have used one bottle of Lucus Oil ethanol gas treatment in the time I have owned the car.
Only drive an average once a week, maybe more depending on car shows.
Questions:
1. Sould I be adding a gas treatment?
If so what kind?
2. Should I be adding an oil treatment such as a zinc additive?
If so what type?
 

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You don't need a fuel additive of any kind for your engine.

A flat tappet cam really should get some extra zinc; more than most modern oils provide. The manufacturers claim their oil still has enough zinc for flat tappets, but if that's the case, it's only for a factory, broomstick of a cam. Any performance cam with any real lift is going to need some extra zinc.

Some people like to pour in a zinc additive. As is always the case, discussing engine oil is like disussing religion. Everyone has their own ideas about what's best. My take is engineers spend a lot of time coming up with an additives package where everything works well together. Adding zinc to the oil throws everything out of whack. Thus, I like to buy oil which contains enough zinc right in the bottle. There are many choices: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil and Mobil 1 15W-50 are popular.
 

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My current engine is a roller cam because I got the motor cheap. The motor it replaced was a flat tappet simply because it was tired and had a bad valve. No cam issues. I used the cheapest oil I could but. I don't think I ever had a flat tappet cam go bad.

The only reason lead was put in gas was because it was a cheap way to make cheap high octane gas out of cheap low octane gas and nothing else. It was discovered in the 1920's exhaust valve seat erosion with the current unleaded gas was due to micro welding of the exhaust valve to seat from detonation. If the engine didn't detonate, no exhaust valve and seat erosion. The problem was the octane was so low compression had to be only in the mid 5's.
 

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I've run 60s & 70s cars since they removed the lead & zinc from gasoline. I've never added either to my cars. I've never had issues with valves/cams from not having additives. I've either been very lucky or owned perfect engines. In my opinion, if you feel the need for additives or special fuels, do it. It may help, it may not but there's a chance it won't hurt (other than your pocketbook).
 

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67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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A few folks still believe they need fuel or oil additives but most of us have figured out in the last five to ten years that we need neither. In fact I doubt your 351W requires premium and might actually run better on mid-grade. My 351W's (currently two and building two more) both are happy with regular unleaded.
 
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The increased zinc for the cam is most critical during a break in for a higher performance part. Once it breaks in it’s OK but it’s not to difficult to wipe a high buck cam if you don’t break it in properly. If you have a high end performance engine and flat tappet cam you’re likely using a high performance racing oil anyway. For most builds name brand oil is fine.

Use good quality fluids and fuel and you’ll be good to go. You’re more at risk with skunky fuel from sitting too long with ethanol/water separation than any sort of damage from good quality fluids.
 

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Lucus makes a Hot Rod oil that has more lead for flat tappet cams. I am running it given I have a higher lift cam with stiffer springs. I am to understand that zinc additives are not the same. I think I got the Lucas oil from Amazon for a good price.

Lead additive should not be needed.

I like to run gas without ethanol. My fuel system got messed up from being stored with ethanol in the tank. If you burn enough to empty the tank every couple of months your should be fine with ethanol.
 

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about oils, there is alot more going on than just how much zinc. There is also moly, calcium, and all kinds of things I have never even heard of. But skip the Lucas HotRod oil. Seriously, don't even use it for free. It does very badly on engineering tests. Pick something else. LSG
 

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Heck, it's Easter, so let's religion away :)
I use a bottle of ZDDP additive every oil change, and stick with 10W-40... the recommended oil for my 351W.
I'm not a fan of Lucas either.
 
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Run mid grade gas if your engine is happy and you drive it enough to keep it from sitting longer than a month, or use non-ethanol gas if it's available. I have been using nothing but straight Valvoline in my Mustangs for years and if I pull something apart, it looks new inside.
 

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It does very badly on engineering tests.
What? Someone qualified actually tested that Lucas junk? Last time I advised someone not to use it because it had absolutely no approvals or certifications from anybody at alI was jumped on like I was being an a-hole.
 

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Here is an interesting blog with some test results:


The guy is VERY opinionated. I suggest using the Cntl-F search function for topics such as zinc. Bottom line, zinc is not that critical for flat tappet cams, even at break-in. Wear resistance is the key. Zinc additives often HURT the wear resistance of oil. Finally, due to potential lifter bleed down using synthetics he prefers conventional for our old engines.

Yep, Lucas Hot Rod oil on it's own apparently sucks. He did get good wear resistance of it by adding Oil Extreme Concentrate. Anyone ever use that?
 

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Ive run Mobil 1 for years in everything I own. No additional additives. Ive never had an oil related failure in anything.

I tried non-ethanol gas in my 67, it ran like crap.
 
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