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Discussion Starter #1
I finished replacing the panel between the rear window and trunk on the 65 Fastback. I now need to fill in the channels where the original Factory lead was used. What is the best solution to use for this? I see Eastwood sells a lead and a non lead option. I’ve seen others say to just use a good fiberglass reinforced body filler.

So what”s the best choice to avoid cracking and easy of application?
 

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I've used the "lead free" Eastwood kit and it's not as hard as people make it out to be. Granted, my car's not done yet but I'm happy with the results.

Before:
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After:
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I also used the Eastwoods lead substitute and it came out pretty good. I didn't get it as smooth as the factory, had to do a little skim coat but happy with the results.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I also used the Eastwoods lead substitute and it came out pretty good. I didn't get it as smooth as the factory, had to do a little skim coat but happy with the results.
What did you sand it with when done? What it hard to get smooth?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I used the All-Metal to fill the roof seems on my 1970 Mach 1. Paint job turned out great.
How thick can it safely be used? The Panel seams are a bit deeper in places than you would normally use a body filler type product. The seams also flex a bit. Has anyone seen issues with cracking when using the metal type filler? I looks much easier to use than trying the factory style lead products.
 

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What did you sand it with when done? What it hard to get smooth?
Most of the lack of smoothness was due to my application. I didn't have enough hands: need to heat it up to just right temp, apply it, smooth it, all while keeping it at right temp. With a little more practice I am sure I could have gotten it down.
 

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I used fiberglass reinforced filler. Is what I was taught in school.
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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Discussion Starter #13
Another vote for the metal based fillers. I've been using them since the 80's.
Any particular brand You have had good luck with?
 

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I used Eastwood "aluminium reinforced repair compound" to fill my factory leaded channels. It has gotten some mixed reviews that appear to be people not stirring it up thoroughly enough before applying it. Thats what it looks like anyway. It worked perfect for me. The only odd thing was that it is metallic in the can but when you mix and apply it, it dries GREEN, LOL. It is a pale green but no idea what that is about.

I use 3M Marglas over all metal repairs and patches. This stuff sands about like granite.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I used Eastwood "aluminium reinforced repair compound" to fill my factory leaded channels. It has gotten some mixed reviews that appear to be people not stirring it up thoroughly enough before applying it. Thats what it looks like anyway. It worked perfect for me. The only odd thing was that it is metallic in the can but when you mix and apply it, it dries GREEN, LOL. It is a pale green but no idea what that is about.

I use 3M Marglas over all metal repairs and patches. This stuff sands about like granite.
Why do you use the Marglas on top of the aluminum repair?
 

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How thick can it safely be used? The Panel seams are a bit deeper in places than you would normally use a body filler type product. The seams also flex a bit. Has anyone seen issues with cracking when using the metal type filler? I looks much easier to use than trying the factory style lead products.
Any filler can go to 1/4", it's just best to avoid it if possible. For a roof seam, you can't avoid it. I didn't measure the thickness, but someone had removed all the factory lead on one side and replaced it with body filler. I removed all the old filler and filled it with All Metal. On the other side, I simply applied the All Metal over the lead and smooth it out and make it look good.

Strangely, the quarter panel seam that was filled with plastic body filler was holding up fine. As I understand it, that quarter panel was replaced back in 1973 just before the PO bought it. (I'm the third owner of the car.)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks everyone. I ordered some All Metal and some Everglas. I’ll see how they work.
 
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