[viking]

Hello fellow Mustangers, my car's rear is really sagging. I'm going to replace the leaf springs. I'm looking for brand recommendations. I searched the old forum, but did not see any certain springs which everyone recommended. I'm looking at the 4 1/2 leaf from Mustangs Plus. There were a few comments in the old forum that these springs wore out fairly quickly. I looked at the Eibach web site and they didn't list any springs for a '67. And I think these are considerably more than the Mustangs Plus. Any thoughts? Thanks!

 

[Opentracker]

I personally have not heard any thing bad about the
Magna springs. They have a lifetime warranty.

 

[70calypsomach]

National Parts Depot (NPD) has a full listing of springs that I think are made to order from the original manufacturer. I count 18 different types for 1967 in their catalog.

Mark Memmer
70 Calypso Coral Mach 1 351C 4V Completed by 8/01
98 Cobra Convertible
93 5.0 Mustang LX (Winter Ride)
00 Volvo S80 (Wifes Ride)

 

[Stangnutfbmach]

I PUT 5 LEAF SPRINGS IN MY CAR AND I'M VERY PLEASED WITH THEM. THE CAR SEEMED TO GET A LITTLE MORE AGGRESSIVE AND IT RAISED THE BACK END TO JUST THE RIGHT HEIGHT, PERFECT. I CAN'T REMEMBER THE BRAND NAME BUT, I DID GET THEM AT TONY BRANDA PERFORMANCE. DON'T KNOW WHAT YOUR LOOKING FOR BUT, THE 5 LEAFS DID IT FOR ME.

 

[Guest]

i did the research few weeks back and settled on magna 4-leaf mid-eyes. from what i read and heard, the 4 1/2 and 5 leafs make the rear awfully stiff especially if using performance shocks.

just what i heard...

-aaron

 

[Guest]

I've 4 1/2 leaf springs from Mustangs Plus, with the heavy duty shackles and high perf shocks. The ride height is just right, and yes, the car is more stiff. Because of the greater stiffness, it reacts to road variations more positively; i.e. - it tends to be more bouncy. I've had springs like that when I was a teenager for about 8 years, so it wasn't a shock. I still like that type of ride better than the "tuna boat" feel.

I'm pleased with the results. The shackles, however, require more grease to keep squeaking at bay.

Thanks,

Mike
'66 Springtime Yellow Coupe
289, slightly warmed over
driven daily

 

[mlnielsen]

I've got the 4 1/2 leaf springs from Mustangs Plus with the reverse eye option. I've been driving the vehicle for two weeks not and like the stiffness. I had the 4 leaf standard eye springs before, and these aren't much stiffer, but the reverse eye does lower it about an inch.

[color:blue]
1967 Acapulco Blue coupe
302 4V, C4, 9" 3.25:1
Torq-Thrust "D" 225-60-14
1968 PDB, Corbeau
LeCarra, Alpine in-dash CD
http://www.geocities.com/mlnielsen_67/index.htm
WEBSITE UPDATED 3/25/01
</font color=blue>

 

[DPM]

Within the last couple of months, Mustang Monthly had an article that recommended combinations of parts for different levels of performance from mild to hot.

Based upon their recommendation and the special that Mustang Plus had going, I too went with the Magna leaf springs. I got the 4 1/2 leaf option also.

David
Mountain Dew & Donuts, because breakfast is the most important meal of the day!
'66 Coupe 289 2V done for son
'70 Coupe 351W 4V (She Bear), doing for me!

 

[Guest]

if i had to do it over, i would've gotten the springs from maier racing instead of the magnas. i still might get them, just waiting to see how the rear coilovers fair from TCP. right now, i'm running 5 leaf mid-eyes. it's stiff, but nothing i'm not used to already.

Rubelle
65 2+2, 289 (early A code), c/r toploader, magna suspension, centerline convo pros

 

[dlindem]

It really depends on what you want to end up with. I agonized over what to buy and finally decided on stock springs and bushings. I couldn't be happier, the car sits up slightly in the back and drives much better than with the old. One word of warning though, if the springs are old be prepared to cut off the front bolts to get them off. What a B*^%#!. I think I spent about $150 on parts from NPD.

66 Coupe
C Code
http://bio.wayne.edu/dave/st51.jpg

 

[mustang2plus267]

that's the truth!!! actually, after failing miserable with a saws-all, i went with the BFH method. Two 1/2 drive extensions butted up to the thread end of the screw and a few good whacks from a 3lb sledge hammer had it out. just be careful about your rocker panels!

i wish i had tried this before spending $26 on a saws-all rental and blades. PLUS, the blades chewed up the frame metal. nothing visible with the spring in but i know it's there.

another word of advice: i went with Magna poly rear shackles. on the passenger side there was enough room to swing a hammer around and get the bushings into the frame no problem. the driver's side was a diff matter. this was compounded by the frame bushing hole having rusted slightly - the poly bushings would not go in even after sanding and scraping the hole and using rust penetrator. the poly bushings are just too stiff.

the solution was to make a makeshift lathe with a hand-drill by placing the busings on the shackle rod (which had a knurled end) and putting the threads in the drill. by spinning it and using some 100 grit sandpaper i was able to take a few thousandths off the bushings getting them to fit perfectly.

prior to this solution i probably spent 10 hours over a few weeks trying to get the thing together.

-aaron

Houston, TX - 67 Fastback in restoration. A-code, C-4, 9" Traction-Loc rear.

"If you wish to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first invent the universe" - Carl Sagan

 

[G1967T]

Eibach never made leaf springs for a Mustang. I purchased my Eibach front coils from Pro Motor sports in Utah, which carried them exclusively. Combined with reverse eye 4 1/2 rear leaf springs and high-density bushings, etc. the car dropped 1 1/2 inches all around.

The car rides as smooth as a babies bottom and handles very well especially when transitioning is an S-curve. The 4 1/2 leaf rear springs pretty much eliminated rear axle hop. Think of the extra 1/2 spring acting as underride bars. As for additional stiffness, I note none at all.

Two choices on removing those pesky front bolts holding your rear leaf springs. I've done it both ways. (1) Use a saws all, several blades, and allot of time. (2) Saturate the bolts with a super penetrating oil for a day or two, then use a wrench. Yes, I was damn determined and stupid, but I learned to be more patient and use choice (2).


Russ

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1595962&a=12199293&p=44747301&Sequence=1&res=high.JPG