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Discussion Starter #41
Please could you post a link to the relay you recommend. Everything else I've seen seems too expensive and complicated to be what you're talking about (almost a new wiring harness).
 

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Please could you post a link to the relay you recommend. Everything else I've seen seems too expensive and complicated to be what you're talking about (almost a new wiring harness).
Here, $8 on Amazon US. It connects to ground, battery positive, one existing headlight connector, and your two headlights. Easy peasy.

 
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Discussion Starter #43
Cheers man! Now that I know what I'm looking for, I need to find a seller shipping to Australia.
 

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As another option, when I built my relay harness I just went to the local junkyard and got some OEM Ford relays out of some modern cars. I figure that if they're good enough for handling the high amperage loads on a new car they're more than capable of handling the headlights on my 67.

Plus they're cheap and I'd like to believe Ford is using decent quality parts, though that could just be wishful thinking I suppose. Still they're cheap and available everywhere.
 

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In case you don't have much experience with relays, you might find this video interesting. Wiring in the relays are easier once you really understand how they work. If you are already familiar with relays, you'll probably want to pass on reading this post. :)

A quick overview is that a relay has 2 different circuits inside it. A low amp circuit powers an electromagnetic that is used to engage/disengage the second internal circuit. The relay pins 85 and 86 go to the electromagnetic. One of these will be the switched wire and the other will be a steady wire. In the case of a headlight low beam relay, connect either pin 85 or 86 to a ground source and connect the existing headlight low beam hot wire to the other pin (85 or 86 because this is not polar). Now when you turn on the low beams, the only thing that will happen is that this relay will energize the electromagnet to close the load circuit. Now, the load circuit consist of pins 30 and 87 on the relay. Pin 30 is the hot input wire from the battery (be sure to have a fuse inline for this wire). This should be a new wire of an appropriate gauge to handle the current for the load. In the case of an H4 halogen bulb, I chose to use 12AWG wire. Pin 87 is the hot output pin that you will connect to the low beam wire on the headlight connector. Do the same for the high beams using a second relay and you are done.


Now that you're experienced with relays, here is a more advanced use for a relay on our Mustangs. Currently your Mustang horn is wired to route the hot 12v current up to the steering wheel, through the horn button, then back down and out to sound the horns. This is why you can easily throw sparks when you remove your steering wheel if you accidentally short the horn wire. Anyone that has used the inexpensive Grant style aftermarket steering wheels has probably had this happen. If only the horn button completed the ground side of the horn circuit instead of the hot side of the circuit then there would not be any hot horn wire in the steering wheel to throw sparks. This change is possible using a relay. The first step is to look at the wiring diagram for your Mustang to identify the wire feeding up the steering column to the horn. Cut this wire near the steering column connector under the dash and cap it off since it is a hot wire. Now splice a new ground wire to the steering column connector as the horn feed wire. Now when you press the horn button, you are completing a ground connection instead of a hot connection. Next, in the engine bay your horns no longer have any source of hot 12v current. The wire connecting to them now is a switched ground wire. You can wire in a new relay to power your horns. Connect a fused hot wire from the battery to both pins 30 and 85 on the relay. Connect the existing horn wire to pin 86 on the relay (remember this is a switched ground source triggered by the horn button). Connect the output hot pin 87 to your horns. Job done. Now when you press the horn button the horns sound just as they did before. Only now the steering wheel no longer has that hot horn input wire there to be accidently shorted.
 

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However with headlights, I prefer to get reliable relays and quality glass. In the end I went with some Daniel Stern Cibie's with a top quality H4 and quality relay harnes including relays. For headlights, I would rather invest a little more in the hopes that I have a more long term reliable setup. Again, just my opinion.
And yours will be DOT approved too.
BTW, the post above about how to wire a relay should be titled "How to make something simple really difficult." If he explained how the relay operates and maybe showed an open frame design so people could actually see things move and how they are related, then a 8 year old could understand it, retain it, and use it on any relay. Anyway, he's well intentioned, and it works for that one relay.
 

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I have the deltas also, main reason was they looked like a normal sealed beam, and at the time Amazon had them for $16 for the set with cree bulbs. Just couldn't pass up that deal.
 

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I recently upgraded my '66 to some LED lamps. I love the Mustang Projects. Direct plug-n-play with no mod needed. They look factory until you turn them on. Plenty of light now! I strongly recommend if wanting to maintain a factory (non-modded) look. They also have a '69 kit that I think would look awesome with all 4 driving lights.

I wish someone would make a LED replacement for our FOG's. I can't find any anyways, if someone knows a good kit post it thanks.


20200125_170624.jpg 20200125_171139.jpg 20200125_171158.jpg 20200125_171727.jpg 20200125_182350.jpg 20200125_192212.jpg
 

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I was looking at these compared to some others and the bulb is replaceable without changing the whole unit.
762993
 

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"Lifetime Warranty: You are covered for the life of the product!"
What the hell does that mean?
 

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First step should be a relay pack. The difference with that simple mod and even stock headlights is amazing. You can pay as little or as much as you want.


I used a similar relay pack along with Cibie/Valeo H4 housings and H4/9003 60W halogen bulbs. Again, another incredible step up in lighting, for about $100. I went this route as I wanted a stock appearance headlight, and I didn't trust the various LED offerings at the time. It's easy to upgrade them to a higher wattage halogen, or to an H4/9003 spec LED at any time. Hella housings are cheaper, but every review I found said the Cibie had a better light pattern.

This is almost my exact setup. Love it.
 

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I was looking at these compared to some others and the bulb is replaceable without changing the whole unit. View attachment 762993
That kit is probably Hella conversions with LEDs replacing the halogen capsules. My Hella Lights :: Vision Plus 7" Round Conversion Headlamp

For just a bit more you can get Phillips Integral beam headlamps. They are designed from the ground up to be LED headlights. They have an 8 year warranty and are about $275/ pair on RockAuto. LED Integral beam | Philips
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I recently upgraded my '66 to some LED lamps. I love the Mustang Projects. Direct plug-n-play with no mod needed. They look factory until you turn them on. Plenty of light now! I strongly recommend if wanting to maintain a factory (non-modded) look. They also have a '69 kit that I think would look awesome with all 4 driving lights.

I wish someone would make a LED replacement for our FOG's. I can't find any anyways, if someone knows a good kit post it thanks.


View attachment 762980 View attachment 762981 View attachment 762982 View attachment 762983 View attachment 762984 View attachment 762985
These look amazing man, exactly what I'm planning to get now actually.

The side by side comparison really shows how much brighter they are. Although I still prefer the look of the yellow (and completely useless) light!!

It would be interesting if there was a low wattage halogen/incandescent in there along with the LED. Wire it up to the parking lamp and you can have a yellow lamp for the look for photos, and pull the switch all the way and use the LEDs for driving.

Are your fog lamps sealed beams or can you replace the bulb inside the housing?
 

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Discussion Starter #56
"Lifetime Warranty: You are covered for the life of the product!"
What the hell does that mean?
I think it means the average useful life of the product, eg 30,000 hours for an LED bulb. How they work it out or dispute it, god only knows!
 

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These look amazing man, exactly what I'm planning to get now actually.

The side by side comparison really shows how much brighter they are. Although I still prefer the look of the yellow (and completely useless) light!!

It would be interesting if there was a low wattage halogen/incandescent in there along with the LED. Wire it up to the parking lamp and you can have a yellow lamp for the look for photos, and pull the switch all the way and use the LEDs for driving.

Are your fog lamps sealed beams or can you replace the bulb inside the housing?
Yes stock is useless. Now, I don't mind driving at night. And the pics don't give them justice really, the stock is not as yellow, and the LED is not as white/blue. The LED is a really nice "white" light and doesn't make them look weird IMO. But they do make the stock fogs look pretty yellow lol.

My fog lamps are sealed beams. I'd love to upgrade them to LED if someone knows a good option.
 

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First step should be a relay pack. The difference with that simple mod and even stock headlights is amazing. You can pay as little or as much as you want.

Great thread. Question: I upgraded to an LED bulb for each tail light. Should I run these relays back there too?
 
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