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I have an aluminum box kit from Summit and used heavier guage than what comes in those kits but sold separate. Aluminium looks like a pro. Don't get plastic:(
 

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I actually recommend something slightly safer - fuse the alternator wire both near the alternator and near the battery. That's just me, though.
That's how mine is, with the solenoid in the back.
 

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I actually recommend something slightly safer - fuse the alternator wire both near the alternator and near the battery. That's just me, though.
Good point.
 

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You won't find one big enough for the starter line.
 

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merfsiu, you have a PM
 

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I have a silly question-

Why do you folks want the battery in the trunk? Mind you, I'm not suggesting you shouldn't make this modification, I'm merely wondering what the advantage or perceived advantage is.

It seems like you're moving it farther away from all of the things it needs to connect to, adding long runs of heavy wire. Is this so that the engine looks cleaner in some way, or is there some sort of fire hazard that this is meant to mitigate?
 

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I'm not looking for a race setup. I ust want to move the battery to the back to make room for the intake. Going with a 91 roller with EFI.
You can always flip the combover manifold and go with the Towncar look and put the intake on the open side of the engine bay. I looked at that.
 

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I have a silly question-

Why do you folks want the battery in the trunk? Mind you, I'm not suggesting you shouldn't make this modification, I'm merely wondering what the advantage or perceived advantage is.

It seems like you're moving it farther away from all of the things it needs to connect to, adding long runs of heavy wire. Is this so that the engine looks cleaner in some way, or is there some sort of fire hazard that this is meant to mitigate?
Some do it to clean up the engine bay. Some because of an Efi setup where you need that space for the air cleaner. Some to remove some weight from the front end.
 

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WIth all the talk about fuses, should one also be added in the starter line? Or would that be a terrible idea?
I never have, and it is not fused in factory applications. A fuse is sized to protect the wire, and would need to be pretty big so it wouldn't blow when the starter is engaged.
 

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Just opinions from doing several:

Go larger gauge than you think. less voltage drop to draw same amperage = less heat and better power

Welding wire gets you good quality wire that is VERY flexible, though outside coating may not be as chemical resistant as not intended use (I have used with success, but caveat)

I prefer 1/0 or 2/0 depending on size and compression of engine. Starter type would play into that also.

Make sure you buy good quality solenoids as imports aren't all equal quality

I prefer Al look on street cars, but there are some nice plastic race boxes outside the cheap marine style of the 80's. Light and DONT transfer elec current.

Use good quality fastners, obviously, but engineer it for easy access or it will become frustrating at the worse times (Yeah I've tucked them into spots that were a pain)

Yes you can fuse the starter wire these days, remember you can buy just about anything with an Amazon search:
Amazon.com: AIMS Inline Fuse KIT 500 Amp: Automotive

I think most guys do this for weight as Mustangs are nose heavy to partially answer the question above. I don't think you can justify a safety margin as Detroit would have caved, since they have built models with batteries to rear or the smartest on firewall and no longer do. We do have much safer batteries to choose from these days.

Last thought would be to run a absorbant matt under the battery in box to collect any fluids. Or better yet, a dry or gel cell battery. Look into something like a Braille as they have less internal resistance and can dump energy faster yielding a better start in contrast to their numeric rating. Also lighter yet!
 

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I have a silly question-

Why do you folks want the battery in the trunk? Mind you, I'm not suggesting you shouldn't make this modification, I'm merely wondering what the advantage or perceived advantage is.

It seems like you're moving it farther away from all of the things it needs to connect to, adding long runs of heavy wire. Is this so that the engine looks cleaner in some way, or is there some sort of fire hazard that this is meant to mitigate?
Couple of reasons.

And actually, a lot of performance cars are doing it now.

1) Practical, if you have a dead battery, 9 times out of 10, its when you parked and need a jump now it's easy. Okay, so this isn't a real reason.

2) Weight distribution. It moves 20-30 lbs to the back.

3) Engine bay appearance.

4) If doing a 5.0 EFI system with a standard intake, the intake piping goes right were the battery sits.
 

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WIth all the talk about fuses, should one also be added in the starter line? Or would that be a terrible idea?
The surge current with the starter first fires would be big enough to blow about any fuse, which is why you need 2 lines - one hot during starting and the other one fused (hot all the time).
 

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WIth all the talk about fuses, should one also be added in the starter line? Or would that be a terrible idea?
With a solenoid detached from the starter, the cable from the solenoid to the starter is only hot while the engine is cranking. There is not as much danger of that starting a fire. Plus, the starter pulls a whole lot of amperage as stated earlier.
 

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Ok, thanks for the clarification guys!

So if going with an optima or other sealed battery a battery box isn't required, correct? I still think its prolly a good idea tho, as it keeps things in the trunk away from the battery and wires.
 

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In a vintage Mustang with no trunk floor, I'd say yes on box. Sparks and fuel vapor are rarely a good thing outside the engine block :)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1231 I have this one inside track car and is simple, lacks bulk and discrete if in black. Plus you have to tie it down somehow in any case.

IMHO. I'd say YES
 

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There is also an issue that if you blow the fuse to the house power for any reason, while the motor is running, the alternator is still powering the house circuit. So, with a fusable link on the alternator, it will blow and save your wiring harness.

When I did mine, I "unwove" the wiring harness and ran all the wires on the passenger side up the driver side to clean up the engine bay. I put a terminal block by the radiator and ran my house power to the terminal. Then took all the power from that terminal (like it was on the solinoid) This gives a nice power source for timing, charging and voltage tests etc.

Another good reason to put the solenoid in the rear of the car is it cuts about 5 feet of cable out of the starter circuit. Instead of going from the trunk to the front if the engine bay to the solenoid then back down to the starter, your circuit goes from the battery 1 foot to the solenoid then straight shot the the starter. It was a dramatic difference in amps to the starter.
 

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When I did my 67 I changed the starter over to the newer mini type with the built in solenoid. Made it a little cleaner looking.
 

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What about the ground cable? Is the ground to the trunk floor adequate for the starter? Or should another (ground) wire be run from the battery to the motor?
 
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