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Anyone ever used these or know anything about them? Liberty heads

My enigne builder likes them. I searched on line and it seems people in the chevy forums think they are decent for the price.
 

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I have no experience with them but according to that page the price is $659 each. You can buy Edelbrock E-Streets cheaper and Twisted Wedge heads for about the same price, and get a more suitable combustion chamber size. I have a friend who owns a machine shop and builds a fair share of race engines and he buys a lot of his parts from Liberty and has nothing but good things to say about what he gets from them.
 

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Liberty heads. From a country with little liberty at the same price as American heads. A 64cc combustion chamber is huge for most SFB applications.

Machine shops must get the bare castings dirt cheap and then build them up for racing applications. Lots of good American made preassembled heads available for your average street car.
 

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Engine builders love them because of the huge margins. Most heads like this are simply knockoffs of an existing product that was sent to China and reverse engineered. Liberty is simply what we call a "pop up" company, with no R&D or technical knowledge, they just buy from a vendor and call it their own.

IMO, invest in a set of Edelbrock, AFR or other company that has actually invested time and money into developing their products, no a copy cat liek this one.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Good information. Thanks all. My builder said he's had good luck with them and said they are cheaper than most. Those prices didn't seem cheaper than most to me. He said they were a Chinese brand, but for that price I'd rather buy American.
 

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Don't know anything about them. There are a few shops out there that buy empty castings, do machining and fit them with good parts. A head like this would be fine. I'd check further with your engine guy. Then there are the companies just reselling of a mass produced Chinese head with poor quality parts. On eBay there's a company called Skip White. I have no personal experience with them. They do post what brand parts they use which are well know quality items, no junk. However like anything quality costs and these heads are pretty much in the range of name brand. These heads do get very good reviews from those who have bought them. If I we're in the market for a budget aluminum head I'd be buying the Edelbrock E Street.

Here's a good article. The Edelbrock E Street heads came in at 3rd place but they were very close in performance to the 1st place Trick Flow heads at less money. No matter what head you use the limiting factors are going to be the intake and exhaust.

 

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There's a thread that's similar to this one going on right now as well that has some good information in it. The thread starter was curious about whether to port his cast iron heads that were going to cost, I believe $650, or buy aluminum. With his situation, as well as yours, I'd spend a couple hundred bucks more and get some nicely built aluminum heads that are made in America. Trick Flow, Edelbrock, RHS and others make good products for not much more than the cheap Chinese knockoff heads your engine builder wants to use. Might also want to think about going with a different engine builder if he's going to use cheap parts since it could definitely effect the longevity of your engine.

 

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Thats surprising and yet not really on the E Street heads. I could have saved on both the heads and pistons! 60cc combustion chamber being the main downside to the E Street's.
 

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Thats surprising and yet not really on the E Street heads. I could have saved on both the heads and pistons! 60cc combustion chamber being the main downside to the E Street's.
In the article they felt the big hinderance of the E Street heads was the single angle valve job. The article I believe went on to say with a good valve job the E Streets might have been tied for first place.

While the extra compression would be nice I can live with it. The superior breathing is going to more then make up that difference which will be about a half point.
 

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Thats surprising and yet not really on the E Street heads.
I think i've seen somebody saying that the E-Street are basically the same casting as the more expensive Edelbrock heads, just mounted with cheaper parts.

The article I believe went on to say with a good valve job the E Streets might have been tied for first place.
In tests of higher level heads I've seen It's usually AFR, TW and Edelbrock that comes in as 1,2 3 on power. The TW heads are nearly always the most bang for the buck in tests.
 

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Don't know anything about them. There are a few shops out there that buy empty castings, do machining and fit them with good parts. A head like this would be fine. I'd check further with your engine guy. Then there are the companies just reselling of a mass produced Chinese head with poor quality parts. On eBay there's a company called Skip White. I have no personal experience with them. They do post what brand parts they use which are well know quality items, no junk. However like anything quality costs and these heads are pretty much in the range of name brand. These heads do get very good reviews from those who have bought them. If I we're in the market for a budget aluminum head I'd be buying the Edelbrock E Street.

Here's a good article. The Edelbrock E Street heads came in at 3rd place but they were very close in performance to the 1st place Trick Flow heads at less money. No matter what head you use the limiting factors are going to be the intake and exhaust.

I have that article (and many others from car craft) The E-streets did well followed closely by the Gt-40X. The twisted wedge are truly in another league and that was the old ones, not the new 11Rs. I say this as this was a mild build and on something with more cam the twisted wedges would have pulled away even more. However, no knock on the e-streets as they are a good head for someone using a flat tappet hydraulic and a stock stroke. They are the same as the performers with worse valve springs. Edelbrock now offers the performers in a 190 cc version and it would be interesting to see some flow numbers on those.

I actually have the Floteks that are featured in that article (long story as I bought them local) but have upgraded them by milling them .030, installing beehive valve springs and sleeving the pushrod holes so I could eliminate the pinch. It remains to be seen if I know what I am doing with my porting as I haven't dynoed them or taken them to the strip. I have to have improved them somewhat from the numbers posted in the magazine as the exhaust bowls were half closed off when they were stock! My car definitely feels stronger that it did with the ported iron ford heads even though those had larger valves. They are temporary because I plan on replacing them with some twisted wedge 190 11r when I build a stroker.
 

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I've been looking at the Skip White Performance heads.
Skip White Performance
You'll have to buy the guide plates and rocker studs, for $70.
They also have the ARP head studs for these heads.
One or two members here have them, and seem to be satisfied with the quality.
 

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I bought the TW 11R 170 with 53cc chamber. The are very nicely built. And they come well packaged and protected. I have heard that some of the cheaper Chinese heads come loosely packaged and dinged up.
 

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I bought the TW 11R 170 with 53cc chamber. The are very nicely built. And they come well packaged and protected. I have heard that some of the cheaper Chinese heads come loosely packaged and dinged up.
That's a good head with that combustion chamber size for a stock stroke. My Chinese heads actually looked good but the valve springs weren't good for anything but a mild hydraulic. I would have been much better off either buying them bare since I replaced everything but the valves anyways or better yet buying an AFR or Twisted Wedge. Live and learn.
 

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I intend to keep a 289 in my car but just build a little more modern version. With the heads and TF stage 1 cam I have a good base to.start with. My engine runs pretty good as is but it's rebuild history is unknown to me. All I really know is that it's 68 289 bored .040 over. Cylinders look good with no lip, and visible hash marks. But there is a vibration that increases and decreases with rpm not mph, and that makes me think something is out of balance. I have a 289 crank and rods lined up, I am saving for a new block, and pistons. Then will have the block decked, lined honed, and the cylinders torque plate honed as well as getting the rotating assembly balanced. Will top it all off with EFI. I know a lot if guys advocate for the gt40 from the explorer, and that would be easy. But something about a 289 and the prospect of 7000 rpms is just calling my name. Lol
 

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I intend to keep a 289 in my car but just build a little more modern version. With the heads and TF stage 1 cam I have a good base to.start with. My engine runs pretty good as is but it's rebuild history is unknown to me. All I really know is that it's 68 289 bored .040 over. Cylinders look good with no lip, and visible hash marks. But there is a vibration that increases and decreases with rpm not mph, and that makes me think something is out of balance. I have a 289 crank and rods lined up, I am saving for a new block, and pistons. Then will have the block decked, lined honed, and the cylinders torque plate honed as well as getting the rotating assembly balanced. Will top it all off with EFI. I know a lot if guys advocate for the gt40 from the explorer, and that would be easy. But something about a 289 and the prospect of 7000 rpms is just calling my name. Lol
For higher rpms the 289 or any 28oz balanced assembly is better. For an all out build the block is stronger too with a tad more meat.
 

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Many people buy Liberty heads and have no issues whatsoever...but as has been mentioned, the 64cc chamber would make me pass on these for most mild NA builds(though they would be an advantage for boosted applications). They are fine for what they are, but as with all kock-off parts, I wouldn't expect any type of tech support or customer service...to me the cost isn't low enough to justify passing on a set of better known heads.
 
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