Unknown origin, low cost. Quality lifting equipment is generally rated with at least a 4:1 safety factor. No way will those take a 6k lb shock load without failing. We don’t know the quality or how those ratings were tested. Those look to be cargo restraint anchor points not lifting equipment. Building something with flat stock I see as a better idea. Or just using bolt holes with real Grade 5 or 8 bolts.Why would you doubt the capacity?
1500lbs each....using 4 gets you where you need to be. Still though, if you want to talk lifting equipment, if its not a true shackle or a 3/8" steel loop then how much do you really trust it anyway? I would be more inclined to trust those than a 460lb engine hanging from 4 bolts that are what? 3/8"? in an aluminum intake manifold. I don't trust any of these options enough to stand or lay underneath an engine hanging from them. I guess that is true of any suspended load though.Unknown origin, low cost. Quality lifting equipment is generally rated with at least a 4:1 safety factor. No way will those take a 6k lb shock load without failing. We don’t know the quality or how those ratings were tested. Those look to be cargo restraint anchor points not lifting equipment. Building something with flat stock I see as a better idea. Or just using bolt holes with real Grade 5 or 8 bolts.
I use the flat stock mainly to get the chains above the intake / valve covers and they take up less room between the heads and firewallUnknown origin, low cost. Quality lifting equipment is generally rated with at least a 4:1 safety factor. No way will those take a 6k lb shock load without failing. We don’t know the quality or how those ratings were tested. Those look to be cargo restraint anchor points not lifting equipment. Building something with flat stock I see as a better idea. Or just using bolt holes with real Grade 5 or 8 bolts.
My brother in law made some steel plate brackets and we used grade 8 bolts, steel chains, and a leveler but we also had the transmission attached. We didn't trust the threads in the manifold to hold the weight.
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they may lift thousands of pounds as you say but a tilter is the only way to put the engine and transmission in together without damage or lots of help to tilt the engine.Testing has found that the carb flange lifting plates will lift thousands of pounds before they'll fail.
The carb flange lifting plates usually have 3 or 4 holes. Depending on which hole you use to lift the engine with, you can easily tilt the engine/transmission combo to install them as one unit without the tilter.they may lift thousands of pounds as you say but a tilter is the only way to put the engine and transmission in together without damage or lots of help to tilt the engine.
hint:
Jack up the back of the car. it lowers the core support and you dont have to tilt the engine as much.
ken
take it out the bottomThere have been numerous tests over the years picking an engine with the manifold studs, both aluminum and cast.
Anyone know anyone that ever dropped an engine using that method?
Sometimes you dont have the intake or heads installed.
I want to pull the 289/C4 out of my 65 without removing the hood. Best bet is block only, then tranny.
But once you pick it you are stuck with that angle. if it is not enough or too much you have to start overThe carb flange lifting plates usually have 3 or 4 holes. Depending on which hole you use to lift the engine with, you can easily tilt the engine/transmission combo to install them as one unit without the tilter.
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Not really. Pushing down or lifting up on the transmission tail shaft allows you to adjust the angle of the engine. I can see where a tilter might make it easier to install. But you can work around not having one.But once you pick it you are stuck with that angle. if it is not enough or too much you have to start over
ken
Not really. Pushing down or lifting up on the transmission tail shaft allows you to adjust the angle of the engine. I can see where a tilter might make it easier to install. But you can work around not having one.
try that by yourself you must have really long arms to be able to lower the hoist while you are under the car pushing up on the transmissionNot really. Pushing down or lifting up on the transmission tail shaft allows you to adjust the angle of the engine. I can see where a tilter might make it easier to install. But you can work around not having one.
I use my big toe to control the hoist while I'm under the car.try that by yourself you must have really long arms to be able to lower the hoist while you are under the car pushing up on the transmission
ken
That is impressive, but even with the hood missing it must be challenging to get those rear bolts out?? What is the state of the rest of the car- are the fenders on?
Are you pulling engine with trans attached? You will need more lifting height if doing so. If pulling engine only probably fine. If pulling with trans, jack up rear of car as already mentioned to help with angle. Keep front of car low as possible. Load leveler is helpful to adjust tilt without having to wrestle trans by hand if need be.You guys are worrying me, I have a 1 ton hoist…might not get the job done?! Worked fine when lifting the engine out of the cobra, but that was a lower car…