[BlackSabbath70]

That is impressive, but even with the hood missing it must be challenging to get those rear bolts out?? What is the state of the rest of the car- are the fenders on?

Wasn't difficult to get the bolts out at all. The body of the car was together when we did this.

The car is finished. We installed the engine back in 2020.

 

[Grimbrand]

There have been numerous tests over the years picking an engine with the manifold studs, both aluminum and cast.

Anyone know anyone that ever dropped an engine using that method?

Sometimes you dont have the intake or heads installed.

I want to pull the 289/C4 out of my 65 without removing the hood. Best bet is block only, then tranny.

I've pulled them and put them in this way many times (using intake manifold bolts). One of the 'tricks' is to ensure that the chains are at a proper angle. Ideally, about 45 degrees to the lift point where you hook on the cherry picker or hoist. If the angle is too steep, it puts too much sideways pressure on the bolts. Too shallow, and they want to pull straight out (though I've never seen either of those things happen)

I've even done this with the intake still on the car when I didn't have a carb lifting plate, by putting longer bolts in a couple of the intake holes.

Grade 8 bolts going into steel with plenty of engagement can hold a lot of weight. The 400-500 lbs of a 289 or 302 is just not that taxing for them. I looked it up, and a 5/16 grade 8 bolt can handle 6300 lbs before it exceeds its tensile strength. Call me unworried here. =)

One side note: Use washers on the bolts to spread the load and keep the chain itself from stretching or slipping over the bolt heads!

 

[Mach1 Driver]

Wasn't difficult to get the bolts out at all. The body of the car was together when we did this.

Let me ask you - the addition of the carb lifting plate was a backup to your already excellent four point lifting strategy ?

 

[BlackSabbath70]

Let me ask you - the addition of the carb lifting plate was a backup to your already excellent four point lifting strategy ?

It was to keep things from falling into the intake.

 

[BlackSabbath70]

I've pulled them and put them in this way many times (using intake manifold bolts). One of the 'tricks' is to ensure that the chains are at a proper angle. Ideally, about 45 degrees to the lift point where you hook on the cherry picker or hoist. If the angle is too steep, it puts too much sideways pressure on the bolts. Too shallow, and they want to pull straight out (though I've never seen either of those things happen)

I've even done this with the intake still on the car when I didn't have a carb lifting plate, by putting longer bolts in a couple of the intake holes.

Grade 8 bolts going into steel with plenty of engagement can hold a lot of weight. The 400-500 lbs of a 289 or 302 is just not that taxing for them. I looked it up, and a 5/16 grade 8 bolt can handle 6300 lbs before it exceeds its tensile strength. Call me unworried here. =)

One side note: Use washers on the bolts to spread the load and keep the chain itself from stretching or slipping over the bolt heads!

We weren't worried about the bolts. The intake manifold is cast aluminum and we didn't trust the threads not to rip out. People can perform tests all they want but you'll never get me to lift an engine and trans from an aluminum intake. I know people do it but I won't.

 

[Grimbrand]

We weren't worried about the bolts. The intake manifold is cast aluminum and we didn't trust the threads not to rip out. People can perform tests all they want but you'll never get me to lift an engine and trans from an aluminum intake. I know people do it but I won't.

That's what I'm saying; you're lifting it by the bolts, which go through holes in the intake, and thread into the steel block below. All the strain is taken by the bolts and block, not by the intake itself. =)

As for the studs (I could've sworn it said bolts earlier, but maybe not!), again, you're spreading the load over four of them; I really think that's a safe and sane way to lift a block too, and much for the same reasons.

 

[TheGreatVulture]

"says the people in China that make them"

I think that says it. These would be the same guys that list their air horns at 6,000 decibel.

 

[vegasloki]

We weren't worried about the bolts. The intake manifold is cast aluminum and we didn't trust the threads not to rip out. People can perform tests all they want but you'll never get me to lift an engine and trans from an aluminum intake. I know people do it but I won't.

It’s all well and good you don’t want to lift like that. If you don’t want to don’t. You shouldn’t do anything you don’t want to. However your reasoning isn’t supported by basic engineering or physics. It’s an unfamiliarity with how structures and loads work. It’s common particularly in communities where people are set in their ways and not familiar with the mechanics of the process. Do want you do but don’t be surprised when someone calls out the lack of engineering support in your conclusion.

 

[5R07K252388]

One would be well-advised to avoid any form of chy-kneeze krap found upon ePay.

Your thoughts?
CZC AUTO 6 Pack V Ring Tie Down Anchors 1/4" Heavy Duty Steel Tie Down Hooks for | eBay

 

[OldRustyWrench>52]

It's always a struggle to find adequate lifting points.

I am looking at these D-rings and wonder if they are safe to lift a 289/C4 or 351/C4.

The ends are welded, and they have a 1500# capacity, says the people in China that make them.

The attached link is an example, not necessarily the ones I would purchase.

Your thoughts?

CZC AUTO 6 Pack V Ring Tie Down Anchors 1/4" Heavy Duty Steel Tie Down Hooks for | eBay

For safety's sake, I would halve the lifting capacity claims of anything made in China.

 

[LeeFred]

For safety's sake, I would halve the lifting capacity claims of anything made in China.

And that's being generous.

 

[308223]

Pulled a 429 out with the factory brackets bolted to the exhaust manifolds. [Didn't pull trans at same time]. Used a chain hoist. If you don't have those, or an intake manifold to use a bracket on. Fabricate some out of flat 1/4" tool steel [bought online] bolt to exhaust on heads with either grade 8 sae, or 10.9 metric of appropriate size and length, whatever your engine uses. Drill holes in top of tool steel brackets to bolt chains to with hardened bolts, washers, nuts. Or you can do like I did, I saved the factory brackets from days gone by after putting headers on and used those after unbolting the headers to pull the 302/289 out. Never cared to pull transmission at same time. Easier to drop it out with a transmission jack. Just my preference with a standard.

 

[Short Time]

It's always a struggle to find adequate lifting points.

I am looking at these D-rings and wonder if they are safe to lift a 289/C4 or 351/C4.

The ends are welded, and they have a 1500# capacity, says the people in China that make them.

The attached link is an example, not necessarily the ones I would purchase.

Your thoughts?

CZC AUTO 6 Pack V Ring Tie Down Anchors 1/4" Heavy Duty Steel Tie Down Hooks for | eBay

Because I have experience with lifting extremely heavy military gear (past life), I wouldn’t trust anything that wasn’t weight tested! You get what you pay for and In addition I don’t trust Chinese crap. But hey it’s your car. There are several available options on the market, that are available and SAFE.

 

[rusty1161]

Made in the USA https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7100-Aut...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584482468269262&psc=1

 

[j persons]

I've been using some old rocker arm studs to lift the engine. They are 7/16" on one end and 3/8" on the other. They give about 2" of clearance between the head and the chain, and are plenty strong enough. Screw them into the accessory holes on the ends of the heads and lift away. I use a HF engine leveler.

 

[GrayRaceCat]

And here is the tilting carb plate combo, but it’s a bit $$$ Mac's PiVOT - Articulated Engine Lift Plate

Not so pricey when you can easily have 5 digit$ invested in your engine.

 

[GrayRaceCat]

You guys are worrying me, I have a 1 ton hoist…might not get the job done?! Worked fine when lifting the engine out of the cobra, but that was a lower car…

https://www.pepboys.com/big-red-1-ton-engine-hoist/product/656331

I have a similar hoist I've used for years at work, A Pittsburg clone I think. As long as you don't exceed the limit for the boom position you use, you will be fine. I suggest replacing the chain on the boom with a heavy-duty swivel hook like this,

Hooked directly to an engine tilter, (I use a Summit Racing tilter) and four of each of these,

Amazon.com: OTC 7100 4,000 lb. Capacity Lifting Bracket Set for use with Load Levelers and Lifting Slings : Automotive

Buy OTC 7100 4,000 lb. Capacity Lifting Bracket Set for use with Load Levelers and Lifting Slings: Clearfloor Lifts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

it will increase your useable lifting height, and allow for the spinning of the engine during removal/installation. I did years ago, and it works a charm.

 

[GrayRaceCat]

That's what I'm saying; you're lifting it by the bolts, which go through holes in the intake, and thread into the steel block below. All the strain is taken by the bolts and block, not by the intake itself. =)

If I'm understanding you correctly, you think that the carb lifting plate bolts go through the manifold and into the block?

 

[Mach1 Driver]

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Did you notice they say NOT FOR LIFTING ?
Something like this is specifically for lifting: 1-1/2 Ton Super Strong Anchor Shackle, Screw Pin, Galvanized, 3/8 in., Part No. M648G

 

[bmcgc]

I used to lift heavy stuff. Thats me in the white hardhat.