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Name some mods from mild to crazy that would lighten up the car and by approximately how much.
 

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don't have weight #'s but here are some basic ideas
Spare and Jack
Insulation/carpet
Undercoating removal
Rear seat & passenger seat
Fiberglass Body Parts
heater/ac removal
p/s removal
Lighter wheels
Aluminum engine components heads, intake, water pump
Manual trans
 

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I don't have specific numbers either. Here's a few more things:
Light weight starter
Aluminum driveshaft
Composite leaf springs
Aluminum brake calipers
Trunk mount battery, takes 40lbs off front end.
Some mufflers are lighter than others
 

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Composite leaf springs will shave about 70 lb for the pair.
Aluminum calipers are about 2-3 lb lighter than iron calipers.
Aluminum MC is about 2 lb lighter.
Fiberglass hood can save up to 50 lb, depending on if you get a race weight or street weight hood.
Aluminum driveshaft saves between 5-10 lb, but this is also rotational weight which has multiple benefits making it 10x more effective than just removing dead weight.
Aluminum rims save about 5 lb compared to similarly sized steel (plus it's also rotational mass like the driveshaft), but how many of us spend money on new rims and get the stock 14"x6" size? Going up in diameter or width increases weight, so if you're starting with a 14x6 and replace them with 17x8 you're probably adding weight unless you spend the $$ for really well made 2 piece forged aluminum.
If you want to get really serious about shaving weight you can take a hole saw to the support structures in the trunk lid, doors, and rear quarters. You can lose another 50 lb removing metal from the car this way but you have to be careful not to get too carried away because it's easy to compromise the rigidity of the unit body doing this.
 

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you can save a lot of weight by doing all of the suggested. Some of that will be pricey to. Just a question, the '69 with a 200 was not overly heavy though was it? I know that the '65/'66 cars are not heavy at all.
 

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The curb weight of a 69 sportsroof w/ a 351w was nearly 3600 lbs, just to give a comparison.
 

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go on a diet
 

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A lighter battery like the Odyssey PC680 (<17lb)or the PC925 will remove ~20-10lbs, respectively. 5-6" wide 14-15" aluminum wheels with skinny tires (like 185 or 195mm) will save some weight depending on what you have now but will hinder performance and handling.

100% Nitrogen (~78% of the air you breath is made up of this) won't save weight (difference between N2 and air--even with moisture included--may only be an ounce or so per wheel), but it does slow gas diffusion/deflation of the tire (potentially longer tire life and better mileage) and eliminates moisture. Helium is lighter than air (Curious George's baloons were filled with virtual heluim) but isn't marketed commercially as an air replacement as your tires will deflate more quickly. ;)
 

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BornInAFord said:
Helium is lighter than air (Curious George's baloons were filled with virtual heluim) but isn't marketed commercially as an air replacement as your tires will deflate more quickly. ;)
Yeah, but won't the helium make a high pitch screeching sound when you do a burnout :p
 

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Here's some ideas from my old strip only car that haven't been mentioned yet:

Remove all the carpet and padding
Replace the side and rear windows with lexan
Remove all trim and the grill emblem
Remove rear seat
Remove passenger side seat

That's all I can think of at the moment.

Rob
 

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silverblueBP said:
BornInAFord said:
Helium is lighter than air (Curious George's baloons were filled with virtual heluim) but isn't marketed commercially as an air replacement as your tires will deflate more quickly. ;)
Yeah, but won't the helium make a high pitch screeching sound when you do a burnout :p
Mark, my friend... only if you inhale deeply. The helium comment was made tongue firmly against cheek... The most you'd save (even if you could afford it) would be a pound or two. ;)

The tips in this thread have been very good. Worth repeating as I think this is where a substantial weight savings occurs: weight savings are with switching anything cast iron or steel to its equivalent aluminum component where available--this would include water pump, heads, intake, third member (pumpkin), transmission, driveshaft, etc. An aluminum block would be nice, but pricy. Lexan windowshield and back glass, no rollers for the windows, headers instead of manifolds, no pot metal (switch headlight buckets to fiberglass or plastic if available) and other lightening tips already given will get you down to below 2500lbs. Then comes parts that will add some of the weight back on--roll cage, torque boxes, larger disc brakes will make the car safer but add a bit of weight.
 

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I believe replacing fenders, doors, hood, trunk lid, etc (repro fender weigh less than stock - they are thinner metal) with carbon fiber items (if avail - hood, valence and trunk lid are avail I believe) saves even more weight. Also, using the R model valence removes the steel one as well as all of the underlying bumper and associated structure.
 

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How about a smaller aluminum fuel cell, get rid of your stock trunk lid, hood and their hinges, and go with pin ons. install Wilwood disc brakes. aluminum flywheel, Install cheap aftermarket plastic rear view mirrors.
 

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autoxsteve said:
with carbon fiber items (if avail - hood, valence and trunk lid are avail I believe) saves even more weight.

Does any company make a good set of CF products? I mean if the repo stuff doesn't even fit well, who is to say that's going to?
 

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Carbon fiber driveshaft, fiberglass front clip, doors and trunklid. Then the already mentioned interior gut, all aluminum motor, trans, two piece wheels and differential. Fiberglass or carbon fiber bucket seat and if you wanted to get crazy (although I don't how long the unibody would last) cheese-hole the car.
 

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Remove all undercoating and seam sealer. Good for -20 lbs.
 
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