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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the planning stages for a 302 I want to build. Key will be light weight and low deck height. Here's some ??? for you engine gurus:

1. Aluminum heads, manifold, and lightweight headers are a given. What else is readily available in aluminum to further shave weight?

2. I don't have the hood height for a typical 4bl carb with air cleaner. What sort of intake schemes are available to reduce the above-engine height?

By the way, this is going into a Spitfire, hence the requirements. Thanks for the advice.
 

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Dan, consider a late model roller cam 5.0. These blocks are the lightest by something like 15 pounds. I've also read that the quality control was better on these as well. It'll support about 600 hp.
 

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Sounds like a really neat project. Gross Roots Motor sports did a spitfire with a rotary last year. It just screamed. Anyway, the newer 5.0 blocks are a thin cast and weigh less. I've been told that they are also just a strong as the earlier and heaver versions. Not sure of the total weight. Dart www.dartheads.com/bliron.htm has a new iron block that weighs 210 lbs. And I heard somewhere that they plan to produce an AL block. Call them for time frame and cost. If you willing to spend the $, you can build a very light rotation assembly via Ford Racing. If you use a dry stump, you can lower to mass, thus center of gravity and gain hood clearance. More $. The T5 trans is relatively light and small. How will you get the power to the ground? The spitfire read end can handle something like 80 ft lbs of torque? Good luck and have fun
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the info. What do you mean by "dry stump"? Are you talking dry sump, as in reducing the depth of the oil pan so I can mount the engine lower? This would be GREAT! Tell me more!

I'm thinking along the lines of T5 or Tremec. Yeah, a 302 would blow that Spit rear end apart. I'd like to keep with IRS if possible. a 280Z rear end has been suggested. Corvette might work too. Possibly Tbird IRS? Who knows! One step at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Tom. Do you happen to know what years/models contain the late model roller cam 5.0 you speak of? Sounds great.

600HP on a skateboard huh? COOL! Maybe I'll qualify for a Darwin award on this one!
 

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Aluminum pistons, rods, rocker arms. Billet timing gears, Mini-starter, 30 Amp alternator, aluminum radiator, Flex-a-lite fan, Road Demon carb (billet aluminum). Aluminum oil pan, MSD billet distributor. Since it's going into such a light car, you could probably have the flywheel machined down. If you have a huge buget, there are aluminum blocks available too.
 

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All Mustang blocks from 85 and up are roller cam blocks. How ever, I understand that the 85 blocks aren't that strong, I don't know about the 86 blocks. From 87 and up, the quality and strength is suppose to be much improved.

I also know that there are a lot of flat tappet 5.0's use in Crown Vic's and trucks that actually had roller blocks but the bosses to mount the lifter retainers weren't drilled or tapped, but can be very easily. A quick way to tell these blocks, they have 3 X's cast like this "XXX" between the lifter bosses on cyl's # 2&3 IIRC. I had a guy at a swap meet who was going to give me a truck block like this for free, he didn't know it was a roller block, but I had no way of getting it home. *G*

There's also a way to tell a roller cam block from the outside, located by the starter. Unfortunelatey I don't remember what it is. I believe it's some sort of number casting.

Look for a Explorer 5.0. Sh*t, enough of them rolled over! Beware of the later ones with the GT40P heads. While they're much better heads then the GT40 heads, you may have header problems with the re-located plugs.

P.S., I'll be monitoring the Darwin awards! * LOL*
 

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Putting a small block Ford in an English sports car? What kind of knuckle head would do that.... oh, never mind./forums/images/icons/smile.gif
 

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Wow, that looked to be nicely done.

I once saw a Honda 600, which is about the size of a mini Cooper, with a 427 Chevy in it. The front seat was removed and you had to drive it from the back seat. A friend had told him he could not do it. It is amazing what happens when challenged.
 

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A fuel injected 5.0 would pull the air from a tube rather then an air cleaner on top of a carburetor. That may be a shorter setup. The 89-92 5.0 liter high output would make a nice engine. Add a set of aluminum heads, do a mild build up and you would be in business.

An aluminum block is the number one weight followed by heads, intake, headers. The rest is gets into chump change. Is it really worth $500 to save 3 pounds. Relocating the battery to the truck would most likely save more front end weight than the rest of the little parts on an engine.
 

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Sounds like you have good advice so far........

Later roller block, alum roller rockers, alum heads, intake, water pump, alum oil pans are light but expensive....

Alum radiator, demon carb and a milled down flywheel (you can take up to 10-15 lbs off these and help your 302 spool up quicker...)

the rotating assembly would be the next deal here....you can get a forged steel crankshaft and get the counterweights ground straight and knife edged (for a v8 crank this means 30-35 lbs of weight taken off) I had 30 lbs taken off mine.....

Pauter rods are one of the lightest in the industry....they are not I beam nor H beam....they are like a skinny low profile I beam with
a single cross beam something like a + beam.

They are strong too....and light...

Valve covers, you can go carbon fiber or fabricated valve covers from summit......they are light alum..not cast...
and they look great!!!

You can also lighten the heads and intake by getting the port work done on them....usually 2-3lbs of material comes out....depending on which heads they are...

good luck!!!
 

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What is the weight difference between the spit tractor motor and a SBF. Get that figure and you'll have an ideal of what you need to save. It wouldn't surprise me if the SBF isn't that much heavier. Like most said, you can spend a small fortune saving a few pounds.

Keep us informed. Neat project.

Jeff
 

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Two biggest weight savers would likely be going with a C302 alloy block and running a Powerglide with a 8" converter or a C4 with the same if the car was over 2600 wet. A manual trans would be better for road/oval racing; Finding a light one to handle the HP would likely lean towards drag racing/road racing specialty manual trans.

Folks have covered most of the other stuff.

A two stage scavenge/one stage pressure dry sump pump and aluminum dry sump pan would be a wash, weight-wise...

Cost would be between 10-15.00/hp, which would put the engine in the 7500-10,000.00 range (for 750 HP)...transmission would likely be another 2-3000.00....

That oughta get that Spitfire moving!

Have fun!
 
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