Sure. The switch itself needs to be mounted in the dash. Next, take a screwdriver and turn the switch (where the key part installs) fully COUNTERCLOCKWISE. Now get the key cylinder, key and a paper clip. Put the key in the cylinder, hold the housing, and turn the key counterclockwise. See that little hole in the in the face of the assembly, take the paper clip, insert it in that small hole and push, you can now turn the key even further counterclockwise. Once done, put the key in the switch, should go all the way now, and just turn it to the right. Installed.
If you do this without the switch installed in the dash you will be removing the key and doing it again........
That's for years 64.5 to 69. 1970 and on require more work.
I don't mean to hijack this thread but I spent half a day today doing the same thing. I am replacing the ignition and both door cylinders with a cheap kit I got from &*%&*??? I finally figured out you have to turn the new cylinder counter clock wise like was described earlier. However when I do that with this new cylinder it fits into the switch housing OK but will not turn back clockwise. What I see is that little spring-loaded pin behind the ring goes into a cup shaped divot on the back side of the ring. That cup is supposed to have enough of a slant that when you rotate the cylinder clockwise it causes the pin to push back in until it goes over the spot where the little hole lines up with it and into another divot. This new cylinder does not have a sufficient enough slant to the edge of the divot so the pin will not push in. Once I figured out how to do it I was able to get the old cylinder to go back in just fine. So now I have a dilemma. If I get another matching kit I will have to replace the door locks again and that was no cake walk either. Or maybe I can have a lock smith re-key my old ignition cylinder to match the new door locks. I guess the old adage you get what you pay for applies here.
I don't mean to hijack this thread but I spent half a day today doing the same thing. I am replacing the ignition and both door cylinders with a cheap kit I got from &*%&*. What I see is that little spring-loaded pin behind the ring goes into a cup shaped divot on the back side of the ring. That cup is supposed to have enough of a slant that when you rotate the cylinder clockwise it causes the pin to push back in until it goes over the spot where the little hole lines up with it and into another divot. This new cylinder does not have a sufficient enough slant to the edge of the divot so the pin will not push in.
Finally. I've mentioned this here at VMF at least twice before but it fell on deaf ears and I'm sure other members thought I just didn't know the correct procedure. Some of these repop ignition cylinders being sold (by multiple vendors) have a manufacturing defect just as you described. The one's I first noticed this on were branded from Scott Drake. I said this then and I'll say it now; You can install them and they will work just fine and you will never know there's a problem until you try to take them back out at some point. Repop ignition key cylinders should be checked to be sure the release mechanism works before installing them.
If you're careful with it you can rekey your old ignition cylinder yourself. There's not that much to it.
Look at the cylinder and you'll see a metal cover crimped down on one side. Under that is a few holes containing different lengths of little rods and a spring. You just need to take those out of the new cylinder an put them in the old one.
You do need to be careful with it though. Make sure you keep them in the same order they came out and in the same position they were in. Put them in the old cylinder, crimp that metal top back on and you should be good to go.
I'm leary of doing anything with the old cylinder as it still works. What I am going to try today is to see if I can grind down the edge of that divot on the new one so the pin will push back in on it's own. If so then I can use the new one and all locks will match.
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