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I found an engine for another project after the current one is done. It is a strong used engine with low hours. It might be stored for 2-3 years. What should I do to keep it from becoming a chunk of rusted iron? I already plan on backing off all the rockers so the springs are not damaged. The carbs will be in ziplock bags in the basement close to the dehumidifier, and rebuilt when it is time to run again. What else would you suggest?

Thanks
 

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I'm curious about this too, maybe an engine guy will answer.
My dad always took out the plugs an squirt motoroil into each cylinder to keep the rings from sticking, to keep the Evenrude fresh over the winter. It always started the next summer so this oil trick does work.
Maybe bag the engine and put a bunch of dessicant bags inside to keep it dry?
Or just seal all the ports with tape?
What do the crate engine guys do?
 

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I've heard many things through the years....Like filling the engine entirely full of oil....In arizona we don't really have the rust issue, but what I've seen work....No water or coolant, keep oil in the pan (not overfilled), bag the engine entirely, spin the crank by hand every few months, and make sure you plug every opening with rags or whatever to prevent dust and foreign objects from being ingested.
 

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get some new oil. just a quart put some glowes on put oil onto hads and put small film over exposed metals and squirt some into the cylinders and put the rest into the block and spin up the oil pump. this will keep the rust from getting to the metal it is almost like a insilation and iff you do a small enough coat then it shouldnt slide down that fast. but you can just do this every once and a while when the oil is pooling up. it would work best if the oil is new because it sticks better.
 

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Go to a boat store and get some fogging oil. Spray that in the cylinders and put the plugs back in. I wouldn't bag the engine since you live in a place that requires a dehumidifier, just cover the exhaust ports, (I just wad up paper towels and jam em in there, but that's me), same with the carb mount but I use one of those engine lift plates on that. That being said, the engine in my Mustang sat for the better part of 8 years, maybe started it twice early on while I was busy doing other things, and I left everything installed, didn't bother with the rockers, fogging, or draining anything. Of course the carb was s*** after that, but it still ran when I got around to putting the rest of the car back together and has the same compression as it did when I put it together 20 some years ago. Once in a while I'd turn it over by hand just to make sure the rings weren't stuck to the cylinder walls.
 

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Definitely make sure the oil is new. Used oil can be acidic and eat away at the seals. You don't want to replace the rear main after dropping the engine in the car...
 

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One experience....

My 390 was checked before restoration and was deemed solid and didn't need to be rebuilt. It was pulled, left fully assembled, covered with a tarp... and sat for 4-ish years. In Brisbane humidty and heat.

It was detailed, put back in, fluids/plugs/wires changed, and fired right up. Smoked quite a bit intially, but after a week or three of occasional use settled down.

That was 2-ish years ago. An occasional driver now, nice weekends goes out for an hour or two, and has not missed a beat... no leaks, no problems...

The same engine sat almost unused in the daily driver for ~18 months 10 years earlier while on extended overseas business, only being fired up and driven for an hour at most every 6-10 months (about 3 times over the 18 months). Then a daily driver for 3 years before moving to Oz and shipping it, and then starting the restoration.

From that experience it would seem storing an engine with basic dirt/dust protection for a few years is no big deal.
 

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NAPA carries fogging spray, that is what I used
 
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