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Discussion Starter #1
I know everyone hate a "what's it worth thread" but not being familiar with mustang's I'd like some opinions on this one.

It's a 68 and I'm assuming it has a body kit on it. Looks like a lot of work has been done, 4 wheel disks, intake, carb, headers. Downside is blown motor. Chucked a rod he says. For my that's a pretty easy fix, just build a new motor.

He's asking $6k. Car looks good but if it's a body kit does that raise or lower the value?

Any opinions would be welcome.
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68 Mustang Coupe
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The body kit adds nothing to the value, and by the look at the gaps on the spoiler it looks poorly installed, so might detract from the value. The most important part on these mustangs is the condition of the floors, subframes and trunk drop offs. Has it been stored outside? If so see if there is any indication of moisture in the carpets, if the cowl is rusted rain usually destroys the floors. Take a floor jack and jack stands and get under the car to check it's condition. If it's a solid car I'd hand him cash.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That's exactly the kind of information I needed. Each car has it's own weaknesses and never having owned a mustang I knew there could be rust problems, but not exactly where to look.

No info where it was stored, just came up on CL a short time ago.
 

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67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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Looks worth it to me, going by what I can see. Now I can't see inside the car and under the car, where rust can lurk under the nicest of paint jobs.
Somebody spent some money on this car in parts at least. An "Eleanor" hood. The front valance. "Shelby" style side scoops and rear spoiler. Last fiberglass spoiler decklid alone like that I looked at was over $300 and it was marked way down. Shelby style taillight panel setup too.Custom grille. Coated intake. New looking brake booster and master cylinder. Can't tell but the heads look like they might be iron and painted silver rather than being aluminum. Says it has four wheel discs and a T5. And obviously a decent paint job. So though it may not all be to everyone's taste, there's some good stuff there. The wheels look like some of the popular later model "Bullits" too.

Some minuses there. Fender flares look a bit iffy. I tend to like flares but what's on there doesn't appear to be integrated into the car very well. In fact one front one doesn't seem attached all that well. No "one piece export" brace. Kind of odd. It's something that almost everyone does who modifies their car. The fit of the rear spoiler bothers me. Actually that's pretty normal for those parts to fit pretty badly if they are reproductions of the originals. Which didn't fit so well either. What bothers me is that whoever didn't fix the issue. What else did they just stick on the car and not bother to do properly? That sort of thing needs further inspection. How much they spent of neat fiberglass parts is kind of irrelevant if it's held onto a rusty chassis with duct tape and wood screws. Only inspection can say. Maybe they did a fine job for the most part but made a misstep here and there. Might be bargaining points for a solid car. "Solid" is key. Many people have been suckered into buying a bucket because they couldn't see past the shiny paint until they got it home and bits started falling off the car. For the price it needs to be pretty rust free under that paint.

The engine is pretty easy. Find a 289 or 302 or maybe swap to a 5.0. They're out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I really appreciate all your feedback. You have really educated me on the car.

When I found it yesterday I was on my phone, when i got on my computer last night i could see the flaws much better. But as you have said someone put a load of cash into it, although not everything was done well.

I have emailed him, texted, and called but no response. I hate people that post things and never answer. I'm also looking at a 440 powered GTX and the guy posted and then went on a two week hunting trip.

Hopefully I'll hear from this guy, if not something else will come up.

Thank you for helping out a mustang newbie.
 

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I would much rather buy one that needs mech work over body work. With Christmas and winter upon us it might be time for a low offer. It will be a fair deal for someone that likes those looks.
I would seriously worry about the shelf life of the body mods. Even well done stuff can flex and crack over time so if you see any flaws now just realize that it WILL get worse. Ask for some pics of the before and during work.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think you are right about the body mods.

I'm like you in that bodywork and paint are not my thing, but mechanical work, suspension, brakes, wiring are easy for me after 50 years of doing it. And I'm also a machinist so I can make things other's cant. I have a full machine shop at home including a machining center. (CNC mill)

The more I think about it I believe I'll pass on this one. I did find a beautiful 66 but on the right side in front of the rear wheel well there is bondo cracking. Makes me wonder if they did shoddy work like that, what other problems are hiding.
 

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alloy, welcome to VMF.
 

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GOod Luck, Put your fingers on the exact place where every body mod touches original metal. If the entire fender was replaced that is one thing but if the flare was welded on, run your fingers inside and out along that weld and understand how the mod was added. EVERY mod including the fiberglass. Metal welded over metal is asking for rust between the panels, metal welded TO metal is better if done right but hard to do without warping the metal so this is where a magnet comes in to see how much bondo is at the joint. THick bondo cracks eventually and a working interface. 6k is not a bad price if its a clean body.

STart by running a hose in the cowl and watch for wet carpet. that takes 2-3k off the price right there and says the resto was a hack rather than a decent approach. The key to investigating a paint job is to stop looking at paint and focus on the reflection of the world in the paint. Most sins and the true talent of the body work and painter show in the reflections. Site down and across panels not at 90 degrees to the panel. This looks like an outdoors car so get it up on a rack and let all the mechanics in the shop peruse it and they will come look! A layer of rust across everything says its been parked on grass which is not good and requires an ice pick or knife to start poking. Check all suspension attach points and structure of the frame rails. Go over pans front and rear, repairs are common and done well is not necessarily bad - use the process I outlined on Mods above at the interfaces of the repair to original metal.

6 k isn't bad but rebuilding a motor will be 3-6k or more depending on your HP needs. That puts you at 10-12K which is a decent price for the car running. A T5 should top out at 350 hp before it needs to be upgraded. 300-350 is a fun car... Replacing the motor can be done from $600-3k used. Folks nowadaze find a shortblock out of a an explorer with sub 100k and get cars running great for $600.

Keep in mind, a car modded in that way will have a somewhat reduced market when selling, in my case, its not my cup o tea, the rear looks like a Cougar swap and late model wheels add an ordinary look to non ordinary car. but now were getting into my personal taste, not necessarily yours. If it floats your boat and has decent body work its a good buy...

THe 440 GTX thing is confusing, like comparing apples to skyscrapers...
 
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