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I went last Saturday and test drove this car.

http://www.oldweakandpathetic.com/temp/72stang/

The seller is out of town now but I'll probably go back next Saturday and take a Mustang knowledgeable friend for a 2nd drive and closer look. I pretty much have until then to decide to make an offer if it holds up to the 2nd look.

It's beautiful on the outside. The seller has had it about a year. He had the paint done (to bare metal he claims) & replaced the top - the rest of it is as it came to him. The interior is good, but not perfect. The console assembly looks original and is faded in spots. The seats look newish but the driver seat has a series of small cuts where (it is said) the previous owner dropped a spinning grinder on the vinyl (one of the pictures focuses on this). The bar across the top of the windshield looks like it was painted without being sanded first (corrosion?).

The engine is a question mark. It's a 351C that according to the VIN was a 2V engine but now has a 4V carb & manifold. It has headers and pretty obviously a not-stock cam (got that rumbling lumbering idle thing going on). It runs very very strong, easily chirping the tires when it shifted to 2nd gear. I think it's probably got a shift kit in it.

No smoke. No rust that I could find. The turn signals don't work at all. Oh, seller says he replaced the steering box recently which brings me to another primary concern. The front end doesn't feel very tight. Maybe I'm just used to driving newer cars but I don't remember these cars being so loose. It has 72,000 miles on it.

If anyone has suggestions for what to look at next time I go see it, please let me know. This will be my first attempt at owning a collectible Mustang since before they were collectible. Seller is asking 13,900. I'm thinking that's 3 or 4 thousand too much based on my research. I want something I can drive to work on a semi-regular basis.
 

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Car looks ok. good idea to take someone who knows mustangs with you.price might be a little high hard to say from just pics.the steering on those cars does tend to feel less than tight.mine has new front suspension and still feels pretty loose.good luck and be carefull. ;)
 

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When you say bar across the top of the windsheild, do you mean the trim piece that goes acroos the top and is the windsheild molding? if so it is not suppose to be painted. Look very closely for rust. under the body in the tail light panel(typical 71-73) Pull the back seat out and look under it. Check the Shock towers and the radiator support for rust. CHeck every where for rust it can hide.
 

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my 73 mustang had a little play in the steering and my 70 mach1 does also. i had an alignment done professionally and they didnt say anything about it being out of the norm. look at the body panel lines to make sure they match up. i looked at a 72 convert and noticed the gap at the top of the door was a lot smaller than at the bottom. i then crawled under the car and noticed frame supports welded in. frame was shot, so that told me to move on to another car. also, look down the body of the car to see if it is wavey. if it waves at you it means there was a body repair with filler and the person got lazy and didnt sand it properly to get it straight and thus left too much filler then needed on the car. if the body man left a good wave it was a poor job, so who knows what else he did wrong under that paint. good luck!
 

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Look as closely at the floorpans as you can. Convertibles leak, water gets under the carpet and eats them out. You don't say what part of the country you are in so I cannot say anything about salt damage. Look under the doors at the shell in the very front seam, water pools inside the doors in this area and rusts from the inside out. As TFOB says, check the tail panel, the tail light gaskets seem to keep water out of the trunk but will hold water between the tail light and the panel. Generally, the cowl will probably be ok unless the car has been parked under a tree so leaves and grit can accumulate, then there may be a problem there. Get down and look up from under the front fenders at the point where the fender bolts to the aprons. This is a area that cannot be hidden very well when someone is trying to hide rust. Check the front frame horns where the bumper brackets are bolted to the frame for rust. The other spots to check are the trunk floor under the mat, the rear frame horns where the spring shackles are bolted and the area where the frame goes over the rear axles, especially at the lower curved areas. You should be able to take a flashlight and look at the inner and outer wheel wells when the top is up. There is a drip rail (or channel) that runs around the convertible well opening under the top that channels rain water to the front of the quarters at the doors for drainage. Check it for rust and check the drainage area for rust and make sure the drain holes are not clogged. I agree that the car is probably $4k a little high on the price but you may be getting a very solid car for the money... Good luck
 

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That's a beautiful car, and the seller probably has that much in it, but finding a buyer at that price may be difficult. If you really like it and are convinced that everthing is in good shape, I would offer $11,000, and possibly go to $12,000.
 
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