Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all..
I've decided its time to add the Pro Flo4 to my 66.. However heres the truth.. I'm no mechanic but I have a good one that I trust. He's happy to install it for me, as long as I try get everything together for him..cheaper for me.. So been reading here and need to ask for a bit of help to make sure I have all I could need besides the small stuff.

I'm running a '92 302 roller, bored .30 over. balanced. GT40p heads, 9.5:1, B camshaft, Comp cam valve springs, probe forge pistons, currently a Holley Street Avenger 570cm.. est 350 hp at crank per builder

So far in the cart:
From Summit Edelbrock system 35930
Edelbrock Throttle cable bracket 8041
It suggested the Edelbrock Distributor gear 22735

From Aeromotive The Stealth 200 tank with in-tank pump. 18698

Not sure about best fuel lines..
Additional linkage?
Anything I'm missing?

Figure have it done once and done right..

Like I said, I trust him to do a clean install and get it set up right.. he's thinking of adding one to his 70 Mach 1 so he wants to play with mine.

Thanks for any suggestions!
 

·
Premium Member
68 Mustang Coupe
Joined
·
3,273 Posts
Pretty sure the distributor gear is melanized so it should work with your cam. I'm waiting to get back from vacation to order the edelbrock fuel pressure reg and coil, copper/nickel tubing for fuel supply and return.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
830 Posts
I added a fuel pressure gauge in the engine bay and had to replace the throttle linkage and pedal with a Lokar cable unit. I believe I used Earl’s fuel lines. You're gonna love it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,148 Posts
There are 2 good threads on VMF on the swap. And if I had a real keyboard and mouse in my hands I could link them for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Pretty sure the distributor gear is melanized so it should work with your cam. I'm waiting to get back from vacation to order the edelbrock fuel pressure reg and coil, copper/nickel tubing for fuel supply and return.
thank you for the info.. I’ll check out the fuel pressure regulator and coil. I’m running an MSD now.

I added a fuel pressure gauge in the engine bay and had to replace the throttle linkage and pedal with a Lokar cable unit. I believe I used Earl’s fuel lines. You're gonna love it.
I already have a new gauge cluster and Fuel pressure gauge to install in the car asap.. I read about your lokar pedal set up. Are you still happy with it? Can’t wait to see how much an improvement it is.. never been thrilled with the Holley.. thanks!

There are 2 good threads on VMF on the swap. And if I had a real keyboard and mouse in my hands I could link them for you.
thanks! I believe I’ve already found them, This site has been such a great resource, I’m just trying to make sure I didn’t miss something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,107 Posts
You might want to contact (PM via the links)) those guys who made this swap and have a running model. I recall following a number of those links. There was a lot of included detail. I'm sure they will easily share.
 
  • Like
Reactions: FTWingRiders

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
I did the swap last year by myself, and I've been pretty happy with it so far. Here's what I did:

  • New tank with an in-tank pump (I did the 69-71 tank for added capacity)
  • I went with push-lok lines for the high pressure feed and used the original feed lines as the return. This works fine, but be careful on which brand you get for the hoses. I've had issues with the push-lok popping off their connectors occasionally, and I'm looking at going with the stainless braided hoses in the engine bay
  • You'll need to source a high pressure fuel filter, the kit doesn't come with one. I put mine on the feed side and the regulator on the return
  • You'll need a fuel pump block off plate if you do the in-tank pump. There are sump systems that reuse the old pump and feed lines, but I didn't want to add even more to my engine bay.
I mounted my ECU in the cabin, the only real trouble I found was getting the 12v ignition source that was good enough for the ECU. I had to install a kill switch and tap to a constant 12v feed because the keyed source disagreed with the ECU. I mounted the kill switch to the column, but I still want to convert my radio power knob to act as the switch instead, just haven't been able to get to that quite yet. I went with a relay for the fuel pump, and mounted it in the trunk.

I've read on some of the forums that some valve coves can interfere with the intake manifold. Mine are not super tall or anything and I didn't have a problem. The only other thing I can think of is that while it was pretty intuitive on the setup, when it came time to set the firing order for my 302 I had to use the 351 setting as the wizard didn't have the correct firing order for the 302 HO. Other than that it was pretty easy. I ran for about a year with the AFR settings to run in a bit leaner than their stock settings, but right now I'm running stock to see how the engine likes it. Probably a bit backwards, but their settings are pretty rich (13.9 at cruise I think) so I was leery of running that rich.

If you have any other questions or want pictures, just let me know.
 

·
Registered
1966 GT Fastback, 289, TKO 5-spd, EFI, 4-discs, TCP coilovers
Joined
·
216 Posts
Hello all..
I've decided its time to add the Pro Flo4 to my 66.. However heres the truth.. I'm no mechanic but I have a good one that I trust. He's happy to install it for me, as long as I try get everything together for him..cheaper for me.. So been reading here and need to ask for a bit of help to make sure I have all I could need besides the small stuff.

I'm running a '92 302 roller, bored .30 over. balanced. GT40p heads, 9.5:1, B camshaft, Comp cam valve springs, probe forge pistons, currently a Holley Street Avenger 570cm.. est 350 hp at crank per builder

So far in the cart:
From Summit Edelbrock system 35930
Edelbrock Throttle cable bracket 8041
It suggested the Edelbrock Distributor gear 22735

From Aeromotive The Stealth 200 tank with in-tank pump. 18698

Not sure about best fuel lines..
Additional linkage?
Anything I'm missing?

Figure have it done once and done right..

Like I said, I trust him to do a clean install and get it set up right.. he's thinking of adding one to his 70 Mach 1 so he wants to play with mine.

Thanks for any suggestions!
I did this exact install on my '66 fastback, with a similar engine setup. Here is a link:


The complete kit comes with the distributor with the gear already on it. I'm not sure why you would need to change it.

The kit does not come with the fuel pressure regulator. You'll need to buy that separately. Since you're under 400 HP, you can get by with 43 psi at the rails

I installed a Tanks Inc stock 16 gal tank with the Walbro in-tank fuel pump. I am very skeptical about fuel line quick connects, hose barbs, screw clamps, etc. There is a bunch of fuel being pumped around your car at high pressure and flow with fuel injection - all you need is leak somewhere and you can burn your car to the ground. I went to the trouble to run 3/8 aluminum tubing for both the supply and return lines, and these lines were run front to back in continuous lengths. You can do this if you keep the tubing coil intact as you work your way around the differential, drive shaft, etc., making the necessary bends as you go with a tubing bender. The only connections in these lines are AN-6 fittings at the fuel filters and the braided flex lines that connect the solid tubing to the fuel rails over the bell housing. This setup is pretty secure and I have had no issues.

Also check out some posts between me and BadBenz94 on this topic, as he has installed the same system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,188 Posts
Distributor gear should work with both style cams (I'm using it on a later model 5.0 cam right now). I have the ECU in the engine bay.
I also used the Pro-Flo 3 regulator that mounts on the end of the fuel rail so it's all a contained unit.
The hardest part is cleaning up the wiring, but still cleaner than the eec-iv that it replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
830 Posts
The Lokar pedal took a bit of getting used to, it was like I’d never driven a clutch before. I’m still playing with the adjustments, when I got the response perfect, the pedal was too high to heel-toe, when I lower it, the response is a bit awkward. Overall I like it, but it’s taking time to adjust to it. I’m glad someone remember about the extra fuel filter, I did that too. Good luck with your install.
 
  • Like
Reactions: FTWingRiders

·
Premium Member
68 Mustang Coupe
Joined
·
3,273 Posts
I think I'm gonna run the 69/70 pedal on mine. Even buying new theyre cheaper than local.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thank you for all the great info...
Big Head Ed... I appreciate that tip about a constant power source with a kill switch..I already have a hidden switch that would work.

DRSB... thank you for the link.. and I like the idea of the 3/8 tubing, the less connections the better.
 

·
Premium Member
68 Mustang Coupe
Joined
·
3,273 Posts
I'm not a fan of kill switches, so I'm gonna run a relay to run clean power to the ecm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,148 Posts

·
Premium Member
68 Mustang Coupe
Joined
·
3,273 Posts
Will be doing the install on my 73 Mach 1. What does Edelbrock recommend? I am miles away from my kit at for the summer.
I'm about 1600 miles from mine, but they recommend a solid 12 volt supply with a good ground.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
SO.. been putting my shopping carts together .. So far..

Summit
Pro Flo 4 kit 35930
Throttle cable bracket 8041
Mallory High pressure EFI Fuel filter 29248
Edlebrock PF4 fuel pressure regulator 17401
Preform ford fuel pump block-off plate 302/290

Aeromotive
Gen II Stealth tank 18197

I read about the need for a fuel shutoff inertia switch..
would this one from LMR do the trick?


For lines I'm going to talk to my mechanic to see what he recommends..

Thanks for all the feedback and suggestions!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
714 Posts
Run ptfe lines if you don't want fuel smell in your garage.
 

·
Premium Member
68 Mustang Coupe
Joined
·
3,273 Posts
Or copper nickel alloy tubing.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top