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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Long time lurker here, but finally brought over my dads 67 Mustang Fastback to my house. Since he passed away in the early 2000s, its been sitting in my moms garage neglected.

I simply just want to get the engine fired up and assess the situation from there. Car does not need to be in running condition, as I won't be driving it until suspension and brakes are well inspected.

Heres what I have planned before trying to start it up:
Take out spark plugs and lube cylinders with Marvel Mystery oil.
Change oil/filter with Valvoline VR1 10w-30, and prime the fuel pump/engine.
Change coolant, hoses, and thermostat.
Change spark plugs


One thing I noticed is that one of the choke lines from the carb to the exhaust manifold is out, and won't go back in. Stupid question, but how detrimental is this line just to start up the car and have it sit running for a bit?

I'll eventually replace the fuel tank and lines but I think temporarily I will rig a setup with fuel coming from an external tank to the fuel pump. Should I be running a fuel filter? If so what part of the process? Tank>Pump>Fuel Filter> Carb?

Thanks for your help.
 

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Hi,

Good looking car you have there and you have a pretty good start on your plans.

I'd let the Marvel Mystery Oil do it's thing for a few days and then make sure that the engine is not seized. Take a breaker bar to the pulley on the front of the crankshaft and try to rotate the engine a little bit. If you can't get it to turn, nothing else on your To Do list will help.

If it does turn, I'd add new points & a condenser. And a new battery. And be sure to spin the oil pump before trying to start it. I think that's what you mean when you say you want to prime the engine, but I'm not positive.

As for the fuel filter, there should probably be one right before the carb. You may want to consider replacing the 'fuel pump to carb' line before trying to start it. I did a similar setup when I started mine for the first time in 25 years.

From what you've described, I think that the choke line from the exhaust manifold to the carb is to warm the carb up. If this is missing, I don't think it will prohibit your car from starting, the choke will not open as it should though when the engine gets warmed up.

You'll likely need to rebuild your carb and flush the cooling system after you get it going. You may even need to take care of the carb before it starts.

Good luck!

Let's see some pics of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks BigKoppa!

Despite the recent reports on the Petronix Ignitor, seems like a rather easy install. Would that cover the points/condensor? Sorry, I'm slowly getting into car mechanics...so i don't know all the lingo but mechanically inclined and willing to learn.

I've attached some pics of the engine:) My dad painted it blue a long time ago.
 

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Thanks BigKoppa!

Despite the recent reports on the Petronix Ignitor, seems like a rather easy install. Would that cover the points/condensor? Sorry, I'm slowly getting into car mechanics...so i don't know all the lingo but mechanically inclined and willing to learn.

I've attached some pics of the engine:) My dad painted it blue a long time ago.
Its only the Pertronix II and III that have issues...no one ever has much issue out of the Pertronix I, and yes, it replaces the points and condenser
 

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Priming the oil pump is probably the most important pre-startup procedure if something has been sitting a long time.

The lines to the choke are not critical for startup and only slightly impact the choke position at startup and the disengagement of the choke on warmup. They are slightly redundant though, since the choke spring can be set manually to close when cold, and will warm up from the heat of the heater hose clipped to the housing. You'll probably want to fix them ultimately for proper operation, but to get it going, no biggie. By the way, usually if these lines are out, they've rusted and broken off inside the manifold. You will probably have to drill out the remains of the steel tubes inside the manifold to get new ones in. You can replace the choke stove and screen altogether, as it is probably partially or completely plugged. This can affect the flow of vacuum and heat that might negate the advantages of new lines.
 

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Having just gotten my car back on the road after 13 years I would strongly suggest you drop the oil pan and clean it out. I was shocked at how the oil sludged up over time. I cleaned it out, along with pickup screen and then ran some cheap oil with an engine flush (largely kerosene) to clean out any gunk in the passages. After 5-10 minutes to get the engine up to temp I shut it down, drained the oil and replaced the filter and oil with good stuff.

One more thing, after letting the engine sit with the Marval Mystery oil in the cylinders over night, try turning the engine over manually with a large ratchet or breaker bar and 15/16" socket just to make sure it is not seized.
 
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Sorry that your father has gone.
I hope you will find many hours of pleasure in making the car as wonderful as he could imagine it to be and taking his memory for a drive. It's one of a hundred reasons I hope mine will never be sold.

Not the best video, maybe best watched alone.


Now, get that car running, stopping, and go for a drive.
 

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I wouldn't worry about converting to a Pertronix yet. If the Points are in reasonable condition and gapped correctly and the rest of the ignition is in place, with a strong battery it should crank and fire. Yes, draining the oil, priming the engine, and hand rotating the crank (lube the cylinders with the "Marvel" with the plugs removed to check their gap and clean as needed, is about it.
Once you get it started and idling, set back enjoy the moment and let your dad know there's a new sheriff in town that'll clean the place up. LOL!....Oh, BTW Welcome!
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I wouldn't worry about converting to a Pertronix yet. If the Points are in reasonable condition and gapped correctly and the rest of the ignition is in place, with a strong battery it should crank and fire. Yes, draining the oil, priming the engine, and hand rotating the crank (lube the cylinders with the "Marvel" with the plugs removed to check their gap and clean as needed, is about it.
Once you get it started and idling, set back enjoy the moment and let your dad know there's a new sheriff in town that'll clean the place up. LOL!....Oh, BTW Welcome!
Everything clicked except 'check their gap and clean as needed'. Can you emphasize? What gap am I checking so I and do a bit more research and clean?

Thanks for the Pertronix headsup. I should have noted, that this car was running before it was just left in my parents garage for storage. Its not like it broke down and was left there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sorry that your father has gone.
I hope you will find many hours of pleasure in making the car as wonderful as he could imagine it to be and taking his memory for a drive. It's one of a hundred reasons I hope mine will never be sold.

Not the best video, maybe best watched alone.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-1aIFdHEnfA

Now, get that car running, stopping, and go for a drive.
Thanks man. I'm really excited, as I've always saw myself mechanically inclined growing up. Up until he passed away, I was always in the garage or doing stuff around the house with him.

I don't think I could ever sell this car. I have 3 others brothers that would be willing to take it in if needed. This car has been in my family since 71 I believe.
 

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Maybe post what area you live in. There might be a member close by that would be willing to help you out a little. Just a thought.

What do your spark plug wires look like? Maybe replace thought to help ensure you get some good spark during start up.
 

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The gap he is referring to is this:

https://www.wikihow.com/images/thum...4-728px-Gap-a-Spark-Plug-Step-5-Version-4.jpg

It should be around .035"

If the plugs are dirty (rust/carbon) you can run some fine sandpaper or thin file between the electrodes, then set the gap. If they are oily, some carb cleaner then shot of air may help clean them good enough to start.

Thinking about it, instead of dropping the pan, once you drain the oil you can probably run something like a wire coat hanger in the drain hole to scrape the bottom of the pan. If it comes out without a bunch of gunk you should be good to just continue with an oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Oh the sparkplug gap, gotcha. I was planning to just get some new Autolite 45 Coppers, since they'll already be out lubing the cylinders. They are too pricey, about $20 for a set of 8. I don't mind tossing a couple dollars here and there for now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Maybe post what area you live in. There might be a member close by that would be willing to help you out a little. Just a thought.

What do your spark plug wires look like? Maybe replace thought to help ensure you get some good spark during start up.
Just updated my location.

Wires look decent?
 

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Hope you have no issues. Sound like you've got most bases covered. It'll be special when you fire it up, enjoy the ride, looks good!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
One more question.

After I prime the oil pump. Do I need to set everything to top dead center? Or can I re-install the distributor as I found it?
 

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One more question.

After I prime the oil pump. Do I need to set everything to top dead center? Or can I re-install the distributor as I found it?
Make note of the direction of the rotor relative to the housing of the distributor when you remove it. You want to put it back exactly the same way. As long as you do that, there’s no need to put things to TDC. Also, try to keep the orientation of the housing generally the same so you maintain close to the same base timing advance. You’ll never get it perfectly where it was, so you’ll need to recheck the timing and reset after you start up. Sometimes the hex of the oil pump shaft will get misaligned with the distributor gear that needs to mesh with the camshaft. If the distributor doesn’t want to rotate back in the way you had it, or if it won’t quite seat down all the way, bump that oil pump shaft just a bit more and try again.
 
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