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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well After messing with my Z bar a bit more I think I might have got it to work.
If you missed the ongoing story I was having slight clearence problems with my headers and the lower end of the Z bar (351C 4V PS). I went with a 70 302/351W Z bar which straight at the lower end. I still had to shorten it and move it outboard.
1. I shimmed the bar at the block 1/8 inch with some Hardened washers behind the felt washer at the block.
I have about 1/8 clearence between the header and the Z bar. I think this should be ok as I will gain a slight amount with the weight of the exhaust pipes after they are installed. and the Z bar should move with the engine/ headers when the engine torques.
2. The clutch fork actuating rod is at an angle (~20 deg) but still sits in the clutch fork pocket well and is not strained at the Z bar attachment..
3. Returnability is poor but I have a centerforce and the underdash assist spring is still on. Centerforce says I need to remove.
A couple questions.....
1. I have clutch disengagement about 1 1/2 -2 " above the floor, does this seem correct?
2. I did loose some lever ratio I think, never have seen the orginal system work. I have 1" of travel where the Clutch fork rod that comes off the Z bar contacts the clutch fork pocket. This is with actuating the pedel its full range. Bumper to floor. Does this sound like an acceptable amount?

Thanks too everyone who assisted the other day. Another project saved by the VMF.
 

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I didn't understand what you ment about 1" of travel from the Z bar to the throwout fork. Do you mean that you have that much adjustment in the rod, or, now the rod has that much free-play?
I think that you need to acjust the rod so that you have more pedal. I think that you should feel clutch engagement at about 3" or so from the floor. This might account for the pedal not wanting to return right. It has no tension on it.
Have you had the engine running yet? I might leave it the way you have it for now, without the engine running. Then when you fire it up, you will find out real quick how to adjust it. If you have trouble going to 1st gear, you need more clutch.
But, sounds like you are in a good starting point...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was not very clear. I have 1" of travel of the throwout fork measured where the rod sits in the pocket of the throw out fork.
I am not sure I have any more adjustment. The rod already has the correct amount of freeplay per the assembly manual. If I adjust it more Don't I risk having the throwout brearing contacting the clutch at rest and wearing?
Nope engine has not been started. Hopefully when I get back from Seattle next week, unless SWMBO is going to do the initial start up for me...Not.
BTW.. I just remeasured the clutch engagement point and it is more like 3-3 1/2 inches from the floor.
 

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3" to 31/2" sounds better...you should be close. You will know if the throwout bearing is riding on the fingers. You will feel it in the pedal...
Don't remember which Mustang it was on, but, after some parts swapping, I couldn't get enough adjustment out of the adjusting arm. Easy fix. Sawed the dang thing in half, put a piece about 1" longer in it, and then, before welding, found a piece if pipe with same I.D. as the clutch rod. Slid it over the rod, welded in the 1" extension, then slid the pipe ovr the welds, and welded both ends of it to the rod.....Longer, and reinforced rod.....
 
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Take the helper spring out as reconmmended by Centerforce. The procure for doing this according to the manual stinks since it involves taking the whole pedal assembly or steering column out (I can't remember the exact steps recommended)t. I wrapped a heavy piece of wire through the spring in several places and just yanked that baby out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yup it out and pedel retruns fine now. Yes it was a Pita to get it out. Removed the column and then turned the nuts a 1/8 turn at a time till it popped out.
 
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