Its either too much fuel into the cylinders or not enough.
You've heard old cars are simple, right?
You've heard old cars are simple, right?
That's exactly why I love them so much, they're relatively simple. With that being said I'm still learning and trying to figure out my way around it. As far as the fuel goes, how do I go about adjusting that? Is it just the screws on the carb or something more?Its either too much fuel into the cylinders or not enough.
You've heard old cars are simple, right?
Hmm. I had a gut feeling it might be something with the carb. I just find it odd since it's brand new as of May 2021. It's an Autolite carb, unsure of the model off the top of my head. Something I forgot to mention, the car revs up fine in neutral or drive at a standstill. There is no popping, only when in gear and moving. When you say "overhaul" do you mean removing the carb, cleaning it, and reassembling it? Or replacing it with a new carb? As far as the timing marks go I'll check under the car later today and see what I can find.It sounds to me like your carb is going "lean" when you try to accelerate. Carbs have an accelerator pump that squirts extra fuel into the manifold when the gas pedal is pushed down. This extra squirt of gas helps the engine rev up. When the engine tries to accelerate without the extra fuel the lean condition causes the engine to backfire. The gassy smell, poor mileage and backfiring indicate that you need a complete carb overhaul.
Your balancer surely has timing marks on it and they are hidden by oil or paint. Go under the car with a wire brush, a can of carb cleaner and a ratchet with a 15/16" socket. Put the ratchet and socket on the bolt in the center of the crankshaft pulley. Clean the portion of the balancer you can see. If no timing marks appear rotate the crankshaft with the ratchet and continue to clean until you find the timing marks.
No not really. The car pops and bangs from the second she hits the road to the second she pulls back in the driveway, no difference cold vs up to temp.I'll preface this by saying I'm no expert with these cars, but I had a similar issue when accelerating. My engine runs great when it is fully warmed up and the electric choke if fully open. Do you know a difference after driving around a while and fully up to temp?
Funny you mention that, one of my dads friends mentioned (unrelated to my problem) that I should replace the chain. I'll take a look at it.I had an old 289 once that popped and banged under more than half throttle. Timing chain was so worn it had skipped a tooth...
best and easiest way to adjust carb is with Vacuum gauge, super easy and gauges are cheap, works good for timing also, google and see video'sThat's exactly why I love them so much, they're relatively simple. With that being said I'm still learning and trying to figure out my way around it. As far as the fuel goes, how do I go about adjusting that? Is it just the screws on the carb or something more?
The car has a brand new fuel filter, tank, and pump. Lines were replaced in some areas according to the P/O. Non-vented fuel cap? I know on airplanes we have vents to avoid creating a vacuum in the tank…is the cap responsible for doing so on my car?Sounds like fuel starvation; fuel filter, weak pump, plugged screen inside the tank. You could put an inline pressure gauge on it to verify.
A non vented fuel cap is possible but not likely.
I was considering purchasing that same unit not too long ago…I would buy it even if I had no problems, so maybe I’ll just do it now and see what happens.My 289 did something very similar when I bought it. After fighting with jets and needles in the carburetor for a couple of weekends I replaced the points with a Pertronix unit, and the issue was completely resolved. I had set the dwell several times before and believe I had it set correctly.
Now that you mention it, I was monkeying around with the carb yesterday, kinda just trying to get a better idea of how it all connects. I lightly pushed on the throttle linkage and the choke plate slammed shut. I’m assuming this should be closed to start a cold engine? Maybe the choke is out of wack.Sounds like choke is not adjusted properly and the accel pump (squirter) is not giving enough gas.
So I agree that the PCV may be the issue, but its not likely. Like Matter stated the PCV ports/locations can be left open, the engine will run the same. This is not true for the port on the carb spacer that the PCV hose connects to. If this port is left open you will have a vacuum leak which will cause the engine to run rough. Was the port on the carb spacer plugged or left open?It doesn't matter what side the pvc valve is on, and the hose from the pcv goes to the base of the carb as it was. The other side can be open as it was but is more desirable to have the hose on that side go to the air cleaner so it is drawing in filtered air.