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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone adapted a true Macpherson strut suspension to an old 'Stang. Not a 'modified' setup like a Fox body, but a true coilover type. I was thinking of an old Datsun Z or 240 SX. Or even a Z28.
 

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The fatman kit is a true Mac set up. Even though it's based on the Fox and SN95 suspension, the coil spring is mounted over the strut just like the example cars you mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Someone on here said that the Herb Adams books were very good. It seems to me that some existing hardware would suffice if the correct criteria were observed. Like the Granada spindle thing, but different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I just recieved the RRS catalog:the strut, spindle, steering rack and brake set-up is going to run near $5k. I won't be going that route. I have been investigating the 240SX.I see that it is a rear-steer setup with true strut type suspension. Also there are a number of Infiniti brake upgrades available. I an going to hit a couple of salvage yards and so some checking on the potential of this mod.
 

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Something you will want to keep in mind: The 240SX is a four lug car. My brother owns three (hey, I own three Mustangs...). I don't know, off hand, if the bolt pattern is the same as any of the Mustang four lug setups, but I seriously doubt it. The 300Z has 5 lugs, but I doubt it is 5 x 4.5".

I have been contemplating installing the strut system from a '94 into my '69. The complication I can see (as of now) is that the '94 is front steer. No problem. I also plan to adapt in the rack by putting in a cross member in the front and removing the rear cross member (this will facilitate the necessary installation of a rear sump oil pan). I also plan to use the '94's spindles. The only unknown I have (since I haven't disassembled either suspension yet) is whether or not the '69's ball joint will safely accept the '94's spindle. If not, then some engineering/adapting will be required to get the correct '94 ball joint in (shouldn't be too bad, just modifying the ball joint hole in the lower control arm).

If I actually do it, I will offer a complete write up either on the web somewhere or here in the forums. (My progress is slow, so it may be a year or more -- plenty of time to change my mind again.)

MustangChuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Isn't the '94 a modified McPherson system, i.e. the spring is located on the LCA? Also, in reading about the Infiniti brake swap they mentioned adapting a 5-lug rotor. No doubt there are numerous details that will need to be discovered (i.e. "OH S#&%!!!!, what am I going to do about that?!?!?!). But I want to start with a setup that is at least in the ballpark design wise.
 

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Mustang Chuck said:
The 300Z has 5 lugs, but I doubt it is 5 x 4.5".
They actually are 5 on 4.5" ... that's the most common stud pattern for Asian RWD (and larger FWD) 5 lug cars.


cheers
Ed N.
 

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rose62 said:
Isn't the '94 a modified McPherson system, i.e. the spring is located on the LCA?
Yes, they are. I was going to use a Maximum Motorsport coilover (most likely on Bilstein struts). The top will be capped with an adapted camber/caster plate. I am currently planning to keep the '69 lower control arm, but will at least look at moving over the '94 (to see how difficult it would be). The '69 LCA would give a little more adjustability.

fastEd said:
They actually are 5 on 4.5" ... that's the most common stud pattern for Asian RWD (and larger FWD) 5 lug cars.
That's good to know. I am surprised, but happy. If you don't mind adding Japanese to your American Muscle, this may be a way to go.

One thing to look at is how wide the two cars are (spindle to spindle). You would have to make some sort of brace for the rack, but that wouldn't be too hard. You would probably replace the existing crossmember.

I've heard from a couple of people that the book Chassis Engineering by Herb Adams is a good book for learning about suspension setups (what works, what doesn't and why). I have it on order for my birthday.

MustangChuck
 

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Just remember that to obtain the correct geometry, lines drawn through the longitudinal axis of the spindle and intersecting the tie rod mounting hole should cross at the rear axle. If not, you will end up with incorrect toe-in/out on turns.
 

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bartl said:
Just remember that to obtain the correct geometry, lines drawn through the longitudinal axis of the spindle and intersecting the tie rod mounting hole should cross at the rear axle. If not, you will end up with incorrect toe-in/out on turns.
I think I understand what you are saying, but do you have a picture?

Thanks,
MustangChuck
 

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bartl said:
Just remember that to obtain the correct geometry, lines drawn through the longitudinal axis of the spindle and intersecting the tie rod mounting hole should cross at the rear axle. If not, you will end up with incorrect toe-in/out on turns.
Finally found a picture. I think he is talking about this:


You can read a little about it here and here.

With a front steer setup, like the Fox and SN95, the rack would be wider to make the angles work. Basically, I just need to make sure the wheel base is close and either pull in or push out the spindle to make the angle intersect at the rear axle. I think the wheel base is close (just need to measure).

MustangChuck
 
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