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Discussion Starter #1
I pulled my rear main bearing cap off to do my rear main seal. Nothing abnormal but worn. Decided to check 4, 3, and 2.

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Im curious on how y'all would proceed. This is a 64 5 bolt bell 289 in my 66. If I were to rebuild/replace the whole thing I think I'd rather try to find a 66 block. The main reason it matters to me is that I'm putting in a t5 and it changes if I get a narrow or wide bolt pattern adapter.

This car won't be a mega mile daily driver and I'm not racing it. Just a fun cruiser. So I'm pondering:

1) put it all back together and drive it until it dies

2) put new main bearings in with the engine in place

3) new main and rod bearings and drive it until it dies

4) pull the engine, build it like a hi-po as much as I can for being a early 289.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm unsure of the mileage. All I know is that it's not original to the car. When I was pulling the car out of storage I do know it had good oil pressure while I was priming it and running it with a mechanical gauge.
 

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If the crank looks good put a set of bearings in and keep driving.
 

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I see worse every winter when I for some reason or other have to pull my motor. And I only drive it 50 miles a year! Throw a fresh set of bearings "of the proper size" and enjoy!
 
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That last bearing had a piece of something get in between the bearing and the crank. Other than that, it all looks good.
 

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I agree with the thoughts of driving to 'til it dies. As far as the 5/6 bolt block, I run my OEM 5 bolt block that is very aggressive in it's build.When I converted from a C4 to a T5.(2010), I looked around for a 5 bolt engine block plate, a 5 bolt Bell and the a T5 adapter plate. All parts have played happy together. You biggest decision will be which clutch actuating system to choose. I stuck with the "Z" as my block was already setup for the block side stud.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I agree with the thoughts of driving to 'til it dies. As far as the 5/6 bolt block, I run my OEM 5 bolt block that is very aggressive in it's build.When I converted from a C4 to a T5.(2010), I looked around for a 5 bolt engine block plate, a 5 bolt Bell and the a T5 adapter plate. All parts have played happy together. You biggest decision will be which clutch actuating system to choose. I stuck with the "Z" as my block was already setup for the block side stud.
Well that's a relief hearing the same opinion from everyone here.

My car is already a manual so I have everything except the adapter. I'm just being lazy/cheap about buying it.

I'm going to get the "how to rebuild a small block ford" book, but any tips, tricks, or gotchas to make putting the bearings back in once I do my rear main seal?
 

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Based on what I saw of your mains, I don't see them as being that questionable. As for the rods, both halves can be easily changed, one or two rods at a time. Just have to be careful the studs don't touch their respective journals. Yeah, you just need an adapter. This will be far cheaper and much lees of a hassle compared to sourcing a 6 bolt block that may need a rebuild too?
 

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those ain bearings are in good condition, though a bit worn as they are starting to get into the copper backs. what i would do is first determine how often i would be running this motor. if it gets a few miles per month, then check the bearing clearances with plastigauge, and if they are in spec or close enough then continue to run them. if not then install a new set of bearings.
 

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Whilst I had it open, I would pull the rod caps and see how they are doing, look for uneven wear across the bearings in the axis of the crank - means bent rod. I would replace all the bearings with the same size that is in there. Pull the oil pump cover and check out the state of the oil pump. look for scoring and general unhappiness. Replace or reuse as necessary.
 
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