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Discussion Starter #1
I am making these cheater style upper a arms I was told I can back of the nut so the shaft moves easier then weld a tap next to it so it can’t back off or move I just don’t know how much to loosen 1/4 turn or more or just snug down hand tight. I am also going to get the long zerk fittings and can see I need to clock towards the out side so that will also determine how much I can back off the nut. Does anyone know what these nuts are supposed to be tourqed to normally?
 

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What is exactly done to the upper a arm to make it a cheater arm?
You move the shaft forward one turn which moves the UCA aft when bolted onto the shock tower. Additional caster without using shims or pulling the LCA forward with adjustable strut rods.
 

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@awhtx means you move the shaft forward one turn after centering it.
You end up with a left and right arm.
I recall Opentracker saying the majority of the arms are not centered straight off the shelf.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I got this info. The only thing that making it a cheater upper a arm is explained in the picture, it just allows the arm to move easier and not bind it seems like it will prevent wear I don’t think it moves the a arm forward at all I first made sure they were both centered one was not so I pressed the bolts out and put them in the opposite way and then they were centered.
 

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Thais not cheating that's blueprinting and specing to the car so it works as best as possible.
 

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Be careful. I did the Daze mods on two brand new Scott Drake arms and just about couldn’t get one back together. All four nuts and bores had galled threads and it took a couple hours with a thread file and wire brush to get one back together. They weren’t cross threaded, just generally torn up.
 
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