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Discussion Starter #1
There are 3 ?components? to the back seat frame:

·******** the back frame (back of the rear seat frame?) that is made of 18ga cold rolled sheet and ¼? dia. HR rods (both avail at your local HD/Lowes)

·******** the front frame that is made of some kind of flat bar spring steel (not sure where you could get this as raw material)

·******** the spring steel wires that make up the springs themselves (avail in 6? +long sticks at an upholstery store?.you have to make all the bends)


IF you are starting with a good/solid coupe seat frame then you will only need 1 piece of ¼? dia rod x 4? to make the upper horizontal rod that is not on the coupe. You may want to include another 2? to replace the horizontal rods where the frame mounts to the car body (they have to be relocated from where they are and I butchered mine removing them)?????otherwise you don?t need to buy any of the raw materials mentioned above because surprisingly the coupe parts can be manipulated/converted into the parts necessary for the convertible. You will also want to salvage the wire/burlap sheet, jute side panels and maybe even the foam/cotton padding.(this article just covers the frame)



1.****** The first thing to do is remove all material, foam/padding, burlap, jute pads and hog rings. Then take inventory of what is too rusty to use. If the flat wire of the front frame is too far gone then I am not sure where to send you except the salvage yard for another seat frame.

2.****** Only remove the spring wires where they connect to the upper horizontal formed steel plate. You may be able to just push them out or just cut the spring as you will be cutting it several inches shorter in the end.

3.****** Using a hammer/chisel and cutoff tool remove the upper horizontal formed steel plate from the vertical ¼? dia rods.

4.****** Make the ?new? upper horizontal formed channel plate:

a.****** You can hammer the coupe formed plate flat and then cut/form it to the shape/dimensions shown in the diagram????

b.***** or if you have the tools/skills then you can form a new piece out of 18ga 1018 sheet (If you can roll form the channel profile then go with new as it will save time with all the modifications need to this piece).

c.****** I made the ?spring retaining notches? by cutting 3 sides with a thin dremmel blade then punching them thru with a chisel. Make sure to lay on a solid flat surface when punching so as not to distort the are cutting a lot of holes in the material but it is cold rolled?(you may want to wait and cut these slots after you get the frame welded back together)

5.****** Make new L/R outer support rods?

a.****** Using hammer/chisel and cutoff tool to remove the outer most ¼? dia side rods from the bottom formed plate and the horizontal rod that the seat frame connects to the car body.(you have already cut it loose from the upper horizontal plate). Hammer the rods flat/straight and reform to the dimensions/shape shown. If I remember correctly you use the left rod on the right side and flip it so what was the bottom will now be the top?.do not cut the short pieces of spacer rods as they will help you in bending to the new dimensions.* These side pieces have enough material in the right places that they can be rebent to the new shape. You will just have to cut/weld them together near the bottom. Note that there is* a slight bend in the front2back plane but that can be done after you get the correct shape. Another note is that I used a ½? dia bolt in a vise to roll the 180 deg radius at the bottom.

b.***** OR you can use a new ¼? dia HR rod (4?) and form these pieces??saves a lot of ?straightening?. (You could also use CR rod but a little tougher to make the bends.)

6.****** Remove all of the finger clamps that hold the spring wires to the top of the flat spring steel frame

7.****** The rectangular flat steel frame is 1? longer on the convertible AND almost all of the top section is removed so using a cutoff tool measure 3? along the horizontal side and cut. then measure 2? down the vertical and cut. There is a slight curve to the flat wire so you swap sides and weld the 3? leg to the other vertical piece. Discard the remaining length.

8.****** As you see in the pictures of the convertible frame that the upper formed plate forms an ?L? at the corners but the coupe version does not????.but notice on the coupe that the lower/outer formed plate has this similar design. Cut the lower pieces off right at the transition and weld to the opposite corner at the top formed plate and the lower piece still has enough ?meat? to weld the new wire frame to it. (This is only necessary if you reused the coupe upper plate (4a)

9.****** Using the notches in the upper formed plate, clamp/crimp the newly formed side rods (1/4? dia rod material) to the newly formed upper formed plate then add welds to the top and to the existing/shortened lower formed plate??..per the dimensions

10.** Weld the newly positioned horizontal rods at the top, as shown (rods that hold seat frame to car body and full length support bar right below the formed plate)

11.** Position the flat wire ?L? into the corners of the upper formed plate and using the notches, clamp it to the frame

6 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
of the upper formed plate and using the notches, clamp it to the frame

12.** Along the vertical length of the flat wire frame is a ?zig/zag? wire that ties the flat wire to the first spring??.with the same finger crimp clamps as used on the horizontal.

13.** You will need to cut the zig-zag wire as shown. Rebend and recrimp it to the flat wire and the first spring

a.****** SPECIAL NOTE(This will be confusing): When looking at where the springs connect to the upper horizontal plate you see that all the springs on the coupe face the same direction but on the conv the springs are formed a little differently. You do not have to reform all the springs. But you do have to reverse the far left spring so that the zig-zag wire can crimp to the flat bar and last spring correctly. To reverse this spring you have to remove it entirely from the frame. Reverse the bend at the bottom and reinstall so the overall spring is now opp (see the pictures)

14.** Cut each spring wire as shown at the top. Bend the wire so that it continues the same contour as the rest of the spring?????then add a 15 deg bend 5? down from the top of the spring. (see diagram)

15.** Insert each spring end at the respective ?notch? and crimp the notch to hold the spring into the frame.

16.** Prime/paint

17.** Reinstall the burlap/wire infused burlap

18.** Cut/modify the padding or use 1? foam????.because the conv. pads are not avail either

19.** Install seat covers.
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