Vintage Mustang Forums banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I have a '69 Sportsroof I bought last summer that is 100% setup for straight line only bracket racing. Homemade rear torsion bars, traction bars, front spring spreaders, shocks and all. I'm coming from a '88 Foxbody that I built for canyon carving, and curvy back roads. That car had Koni shocks, subframe connectors, H&R springs, MM panhard bar, SN95 control arms, etc, etc. What I'd like to do is get my '69 to a similar point. What are some do's/don'ts to get the car feeling more tight and nimble. Obviously a '69 is a heavier car than a Foxbody, but what are the essentials to getting it to feel lighter and more agile? This is a street driven car 99% of the time, and I don't plan on any autocrosses or track days.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,852 Posts
Look at the street or track setups. There is no reason a 69 can’t run with a fox body given the right components.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,414 Posts
The following things are what I have did to my 67 vert 6 cyl/c4.
When I started it was a stock set up that rode and drove fair with a lot of body roll in the corners.

On the front opentracker rollerized lower control arms,and rollerized spring perches along with their strut rod bushings. I installed a set of tubler upper a arms with a 1" drop built into the mounting arm along with the ability to adjust the upper ball joint to about 4 positions.

I installed a set of Scott Drake sway bars 11/8" front and 3/4" rear ,Drake export brace,Drake 4 1/2 leaf mid eye 1" lowering springs on the rear.

With all I did my car now corners flat with no body roll and rides good. As for making it feel lighter you probably need more power but the suspension work will help with the nimble part.

And just like your other Mustang make sure the tires and brakes are up to speed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't have 3-6k to drop on a full package. I'm talking about what sort of parts can I piece together that will go the farthest towards making my car handle.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,429 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,414 Posts
I doubt I spent 2 to 2500 on my very. But judging by my before and after I'd step up on the front sway bar you said the back had sway bars ,a good set of shocks all round.

A lot of members on here swear by oem suspension parts start there maybe with moog replacement componets on the front .

Be sure to check the rear spring bushings . When I replaced my parts non of the rubber appeared worn out . And the only part I would say was worn out was the spring pearches because with them attached to the a arms and laying on the ground I stood my 200 lbs on them and could not move them.

Last i would put the most rubber on the ground it would take on the wheels i had.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,852 Posts
The single biggest thing is correcting the camber curve. The Shelby drop does most of it. Even better is a tubular upper arm like SOT or Global West sells. Then springs and Bilstein shocks. This is sort of the bare minimum IMHO
I would remove most of the drag race add ons
 
  • Like
Reactions: Huskinhano

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,794 Posts
The single biggest thing is correcting the camber curve. The Shelby drop does most of it. Even better is a tubular upper arm like SOT or Global West sells. Then springs and Bilstein shocks. This is sort of the bare minimum IMHO
I would remove most of the drag race add ons
^^^ +++
The tubular UCAs (upper control arms) reposition the ball joint to give you needed positive caster. They also may allow you to do a Shelby/Arnic drop of more than one inch. So chose the UCA first and then drill your new mounting holes (GW's come with a template, I'm sure that others do as well). The drop only costs you a few $$ for the right drill bit.
In addition, I'd add a large diameter front sway bar. I have 1 1/8" with my 390. A 1" is good for a small block.
 

·
Dimples
Joined
·
5,993 Posts
A 69 is heavier than a fox body, but barely. As others have said, factory style components can be made to work quite well. Do some research to see what you can do that fits your budget, but careful shopping can land you with a +/- $1,000 front suspension that really is nice and responsive.
 

·
Registered
1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
Joined
·
4,578 Posts
Not without cost, but if you have iron intake and heads, that’s also an area that can help out along with the suspension parts. Pays double dividends by increasing power and lightening the front end. I “ass”ume this has been done, but if not....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
429 Posts
A lot of things you can do yourself. You can make your own roller springs, adjustable strut rods, do the Shelby drop, rollerize the control arms etc. Do your own alignment and spend your money on shocks, springs, and good tires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
I have the full roller front suspension with boxed a-arms from OpenTracker, Shelby/Arning Drop, S&T adjustable strut rods, 1" sway bar, Z-ray's crossmember, Eaton "GT" springs on the front. On the rear, del-a-lum bushings and Eaton "GT" Springs. Bilstein "street" shocks on all four corners. Changed the shock tower braces to a one piece Export Brace. For the steering I replaced all the tie rods and idler arm, and sent the steering box to Dan at Chockostang for rebuilding.

It went from typical vintage mustang handling, to a very fun car to drive!

I'm currently changing the 289 and C-4 for a 347 and a TKX. While I'm at it, I'll be adding a Monte Carlo Bar and a steel Rear Seat Divider Panel. Can't wait to see how much more fun it gets to drive!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,594 Posts
I have owned many 65-66 mustangs and 1 69 sportsroof. My dad had a 69 boss 302. You can make them handle good but not as good as a 65-66. Dont ask me why cause it dont make sense
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top