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Discussion Starter #1
I plan to incorporate the stress relieving pigtails, corkscrews, or whatever they are called in the brake lines as they exit my proportioning valve. My brake line is 3/16 inch Cunifer (Nickel Copper). In my first mockup, I used two 1 inch diameter 360 degree loops, is that enough or should I increase it to three loops?
 

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I plan to incorporate the stress relieving pigtails, corkscrews, or whatever they are called in the brake lines as they exit my proportioning valve. My brake line is 3/16 inch Cunifer (Nickel Copper). In my first mockup, I used two 1 inch diameter 360 degree loops, is that enough or should I increase it to three loops?
Two should be fine but 1 inch is kind of a "tight" loop....
 

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Since most brake lines have no loops or pigtails I would say any number that you want to add would be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My concern is the way Hydratech made their hydroboost setup for my Coyote. The hydroboost, Wilwood MC, and proportioning valve are hung off the firewall and extend much further than a typical MC setup would. Although I will be adding a additional support, there is going to be some vibration, just trying to prevent stress on the brake lines.
I recall some of the Chevy MC setup had the pigtails included from the factory.
 

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I would think the larger the diameter of the loops, the better, in terms of their ability to absorb flex and vibration. I have a Hydratech hydraboost in my 67, and didn't feel any additional support was needed. The majority of the weight is close to the firewall, so I don't feel the leverage to flex the firewall is significant. I think the flex to a firewall comes from the pressure when pushing on the brake pedal. With the hydraboost, there is very little pressure to the pedal, in fact some people feel it is too sensitive, but I love it once you're use to it.
 

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Since most brake lines have no loops or pigtails I would say any number that you want to add would be fine.
My 70 with manual drum brakes had two factory loops in each brake line between the master cylinder and inner-fender mounted distribution block. When I converted to disk brakes I duplicated this.
 

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i just ran a straight line down to the porp. valve. been that was 20 years or so
 

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This strikes me as the kind of thing that’s easy to overthink. If they look clean with no abrasion points, party on.
 

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67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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I made my service loops doubles at about two inches in diameter. Never did care so much for the looks though. When I (finally) ran my DIY hydraulic clutch line I used a section of line with part of it being flexible stainless steel braid. I like it a lot better and plan to pull my service loops and replace them with braided line sections in the same manner as many late model vehicles. I've not yet gone much past the idea stage yet though. I've not seen anything in the aftermarket that wouldn't require some fairly gawky adapters so I may end up having a looksee what the salvage yards have to offer. Which is where most of my clutch line came from after I couldn't get the parts store parts situated how I wanted.

(Overthinking the heck out of this stuff so I am.)
 

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While a little bit on the "tight" side for diameter, the cunifer tubing will be more than happy with even a single loop like you have. Let 'er buck!
 

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After fixing leaks and rearranging parts my handmade coils ended up more like a few curves. 4-5 years now.
I see some cars that have SS flex out of the master and want to use that to replace mine someday. I haven't seen any good reason not to.

Sent from my K92 using Tapatalk
 
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