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I'm planning on using Master Series Silver on the undercarriage and engine bay. I'm worried about cleanup. They warn about using lacquer thinner to clean panels on their website. For those who've used it what did you use as a cleaner. They recommend thinning with Naphtha to reduce the paint. How bad is cleanup with this? I don't want to ruin my good paint gun. Should I buy a cheep Harbor Freight gun? Also do you think two quarts do the undercarriage and engine bay?
 

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I used POR-15 on my chassis and engine bay. I've heard good things about Master Series. I used a paint brush. I wouldn't want to get it on anything where it doesn't belong. You won't get it off without damaging whatever is underneath it. If your plan is to spray, mask off everything. Once it' on, it ain't coming off.
 

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The mastercoat silver is different than the black POR15. They're both moisture cured urethanes but the silver uses a nonleafing aluminum pigment and it does sand off better than a black chassis paint which is hard as nails and glossy. I would never actually use anything by POR 15.

I spray lots and lots of stuff with the silver...tractors, horse trailers, car parts, I even use it as a seam sealer and glue for emblems on the car.

Use it like you would any other product. I spray it through my primer gun that I spray everything else through. At one point I used to paint that that same gun too. It cleans up easily. Since it is moisture cured it hardens with moisture. It will become very hard and if you get a little bit in the rim of the can when you put the lid on, you're never getting that can off again. Additionally, if you get too much humidity in the can, the entire can will kick and solidify on you. I only open a can just long enough to get what I need and then it's sealed back up. I stored them in the basement and not outside.

For degreasing I use regular paint wax and grease remover. I have both solvent and alcohol based WGR; I use the SPI stuff.

For thinning, I use their thinner. You will probably require 2 quarts to get the engine bay and undercarriage, because you'll want to do several coats. A little bit goes a long way when you're spraying. It's the easiest stuff you'll ever spray because it flows out perfectly smooth and has no peel. I usually don't thin, just spray it straight. Shake the can well, there's tons of solids that will settle at the bottom and you'll need to mix very well with a stir stick.
 

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I used their thinner, clean up is no different from regular paint.

Master Series Silver goes on looking like bad orange peel snot, but dries smooth. Very easy to spray, hardly any over spray.

Do Not get it on you,.....lol.
 

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I started using Master Coat when it first came out in the early 90's. It was more like an improved POR-15. Use their thinner- works great. We also liked the aluminum because it have the metal in it. Painting floors with small pinholes was a breeze and you could grind/sand it down if needed. Make sure you paint over it as sun will deteriorate it over time. We never sprayed it, but I know you can. The saran wrap is a really good idea if you don't use the whole can. Acetone will remove it from your hands- IF you use it right away. Once it dries, it'll only wear off!
 

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I started using Master Coat when it first came out in the early 90's. It was more like an improved POR-15. Use their thinner- works great. We also liked the aluminum because it have the metal in it. Painting floors with small pinholes was a breeze and you could grind/sand it down if needed. Make sure you paint over it as sun will deteriorate it over time. We never sprayed it, but I know you can. The saran wrap is a really good idea if you don't use the whole can. Acetone will remove it from your hands- IF you use it right away. Once it dries, it'll only wear off!
The original moisture cured urethane was silver with the nonleafing aluminum pigment. POR came along and wanted to join the party, but they removed the aluminum pigment and added a black pigment. Doing so removed most of the effectiveness.
 

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I love master series. I use a foam roller on the flat parts. Use acetone for clean up and bought some large syringes to get it out of the xan without getting it on the rim of the can. GLOVES are a requirement upon deciding to use the stuff.
 

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I used the Master Series Silver inside & outside of the engine compartment & then top coated it with their chassis black, I also coated the interior side of the firewall & the floor pans with the silver.
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This salt test convinced me. He redid the test and at around 3 minutes he shows the results, but the whole thing is worth watching. He appears to have tested Master Series Silver and AG111 separately. They actually recommend using one coat of AG111 over two coats of Silver:
 

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This salt test convinced me. He redid the test and at around 3 minutes he shows the results, but the whole thing is worth watching. He appears to have tested Master Series Silver and AG111 separately. They actually recommend using one coat of AG111 over two coats of Silver:
In that video the AG111 was applied over the silver.
 

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Must have left the lid off too long or the lid didn't seal. Went to use my mss yesterday and it was cured... oh well, ordered up another qrt.
 
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