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Matching engine and transmissions

2K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  GypsyR 
#1 ·
I am helping my buddy with his hot rod that has a ford powertrain under it. The transmission flexplate and block plate are not matching up. And I want to put it back together with matching parts so the starter will work right.
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#2 ·
You need the block plate that matches the trans. And the just by appearance you will need a 157 tooth flex plate. But be sure to match the balance to the engine, 81 and later 302/5.0 are 50oz balance, 351w and 80 and earlier windsors are 28oz balance.
 
#8 ·
A block plate cannot fit both 157T and 164T flexplates. The 164T is larger in diameter than a 157T flexplate so the starter is mounted farther away from the centerline of the crankshaft and the hole in the block plate for the starter must be farther away also.
 
#11 ·
For the c4 trans as stated above. the external balance just needs to match the flexplate. your trans is a 74 so it would have most likely came with a 28oz 157 tooth flexplate. Your motor on the other hand being from the 80's.. would have come with either a 164 or 157 50oz flywheel/flexplate (depending on whether it was a stick or auto.) In your case I would purchase a 50oz 157 tooth flexplate they sell them online and its assuring knowing it isnt used (trust me).. they sell one at cj pony parts for sure.. Just get a block plate (that metal spacer between bell and block) starter, and bellhousing for a 67 mustang with 289 auto. that's what I did , its easy to remember, I have a c4 with a 74 302 in my 66. That's what im running. ONLY DIFFERENCE is mine is 28 oz U NEED 50oz. failure to use appropriate flexplate and harmonic balancer up front (matched to eachother) will result eventually in a motor that feels pretty rough. just my .02 ?
 
#9 ·
Weird. I see your new "universal" block plate has a punch out that should allow it to fit a 157 or 164 tooth flexplate. The other block plate looks to be for a manual transmission that someone has been cutting on to try and force it to fit...something else. Does the hacked up one match the bellhousing?
According to the tag transmission appears to be for/from a 1974 Maverick. I doesn't look like it's for a straight six to me. Can you put the block plates up to the bellhousing for comparison? Something's odd.

Side note: The cylinder heads used on 1986 5.0 engines are widely held to be the worst small block Ford heads ever. They were only used that one year. They can be swapped to something else though, if it hasn't been done already.
 
#12 ·
If you look at the pic of the block plates that I posted ....
I did, but I see where some others in this thread have not. I've been lucky enough to be able to score good used stock block plates for my stuff. So far. Just going by the pictures I believe the ones I have will one way or the other match your universal aftermarket plate. To the point I believe it to be correct for the application. The older altered plate and the bellhousing are what strike me as being the problem at this point. Near as I can make out from the pictures so far. I'd like to see both block plates up against that bellhousing.
 
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#14 ·
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The old block plate that has been cut on does fit the bell housing that is on the transmission. I just can’t figure out what it is to order matching parts to connect it to the engine properly. It sounds like my transmission was meant to have a 157t bell housing on it so I think I am going to order a used 157t bell housing and a new torque converter, starter, and flex plate. Still curious about what that odd bell housing was meant for? Could it be off a transmission that originally came with the engine?
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#17 ·
Scode nails it. So you either need to have all the unique Mustang II parts to make that work or you need to swap the bellhousing for a regular 157 tooth size. Going all Mustang II size might be greatly complicated by how you need to have a 50 ounce imbalance flexplate for that engine.
 
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