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Mine just arrived today. Where have others with the unit mounted them? To give you a sense of under dash space, I have a 66 with no A/C
 

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I put mine in the glove box next to my ignition box. It makes it easier to fiddle with to get the gauge to read where you want it.
 

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@66coupe289 please post to this thread your experience with the unit once you have it installed and running. I'm interested to know.
 

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I put mine in the glove box next to my ignition box. It makes it easier to fiddle with to get the gauge to read where you want it.
I may do the same on a board with my Dakota Digital fan controller...but that is Bluetooth so I should be able to futz with that remotely.
 

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I have mine rolled up with about 2 foot harness under the front of the console. This way I can pull it out to make adjustments. ( '70 Mach I). I have a Aeromotive Stealth II tank. The tank came fully assembled so I don't even know what type of sender is in there.

I have empty programed with the needle right below the "E" line touching it with 2 gallons . Full is about 2 needle widths past the full line.

I still have to program the 3/4 to 1/4 point. I emailed tech support and he said you usually don't have to program those points. That programing the empty and full points the algorithm will take care of the rest. But I think on our cars if you don't have a NOS sender those points need to be programed. Our tank has that taper on the bottom up to the rear valance. So half a tank is not at the seam because of the bottom shape
 

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I zip tied mine behind the instrument cluster behind the temp gauge. If memory serves me right, there is a vertical metal brace I attached it to. You might want to consider a long enough lead to reach near the shifter/hump so that you can make adjustments as you fine tune it for accuracy. Once squared away shorten the lead and place it in its final resting spot. Once you get it set to where you like it, you never touch it again as there isn't a need.
 

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Mine just arrived today. Where have others with the unit mounted them? To give you a sense of under dash space, I have a 66 with no A/C
Fuel Sending Unit Corrector ? What is this, something new? Some info please.
Thanks, yarb
 

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I’ve installed in both a 65 and my 68. It worked great in the 65. In my 68 the gauge reads all over the place. Not sure if the meter match is bad, or my sender is bad, haven’t had time to sort it out. On both I just rolled it up and tucked it up behind the dash. Easy to pull out and adjust if needed.
 

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I got mine about a month ago and its sitting in the garage. I feel like a completely rookie when it comes to the installation even though I've learned a lot in the past since since I got my 66. Would love it if you can document the installation with pictures. For example, not sure where to pull a wire from the battery to power the unit.
 

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You could even install it in the trunk or wherever you want. The MeterMatch box does require a +12 volt wire to run, but it doesn't need to be near the fuel gauge.
 

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I got mine about a month ago and its sitting in the garage. I feel like a completely rookie when it comes to the installation even though I've learned a lot in the past since since I got my 66. Would love it if you can document the installation with pictures. For example, not sure where to pull a wire from the battery to power the unit.
I pulled a wire from the back of the ignition switch while the dash was out to hook the MeterMatch up to the gauge and fused it for protection.
 

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Mine are placed all to the left in the drivers side, just hidden up behind the lower dash egde. Mounted with just a zip tye and additional wire lenght, so it's eazy to work with if needed. Filled for full tank and then emptied the that into an big see through jug. Emptied the tank through the filler tube with an old electric fuel pump and some hose. Used empty, 1/4, 1/2 and full as the set points, for highest precision at the last ½ tank. With like an 1 gallon left as empty. 1/4 and 1/2 was measured and marked outside on the jug.
 

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A question for you who have already installed Meter Match in your mustangs: from the time that you start the engine, how long before the needles swing to their "as calibrated" condition? In other words, does the gauge show the fuel level or oil pressure within ~5 seconds, or is it a slow steady increase that takes ~30 seconds to show?
 

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from the time that you start the engine, how long before the needles swing to their "as calibrated" condition?
The fuel gauge are designed to have a pretty slow needle, so fast movements inside the tank when driving don't impact the level it shows. The MeterMatch have no impact on how fast or slow the fuel gauge are.
 

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Thanks for weighing in, @Westmus . I understand about not wanting to read "slosh". My concern about movement is based on my experience with voltage regulators. The original style regulators are a pulse type, swinging from 0 to 12v, averaging about 5v. This gives a fairly quick response but slow enough to account for swings such as sloshing.

When I replaced my pulse type with a new digital voltage regulator, I dialed it so that I got 5v output constant. This slowed the needle movement so that it took about 30 seconds to settle into its reading. For fuel, this is fine because consumption takes a long time. But for oil pressure, this is a deal breaker for me. I want to know to within 5 seconds of starting the engine if I have pressure so that, if not, I can shut it down. (This happened to me on a previous mustang. A small piece of plastic got past the screen in the oil pickup tube. It got lodged in the oil pump, causing it to stop rotating, shearing off the drive shaft. If I wasn't watching my gauge at start up, I would have ruined the engine.) A slow crawl to "normal" works for fuel and temp, but not oil.

I think the Meter Match WILL have an impact on how fast the gauges are. I suspect they have a digital voltage regulator. The website shows that they wire directly to the gauge, so I believe that it will slow down the report time. However, it is possible to have it constructed so that it sends a 12v pulse to the gauge and then 5v constant. This is getting outside of my knowledge base so I'll stop there. I don't know how the MM is built.

I sent in a question directly to the folks at Meter Match. Brian was fast to respond and said he hadn't heard of any issues. While interesting, I want more than that to go on. I think my strategy will be to buy one for my fuel gauge, but also tinker with it using my oil pressure sending unit to see the response time...unless I learn more from other people's posts here.
 
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That's an interesting negative result of adding a digital regulator for the gauges:
This slowed the needle movement so that it took about 30 seconds to settle into its reading. For fuel, this is fine because consumption takes a long time. But for oil pressure, this is a deal breaker for me. I want to know to within 5 seconds of starting the engine if I have pressure so that, if not, I can shut it down.
Has anyone else experienced this additional 25 second delay?
I can theorize the reason this may happen: the stock voltage regulator is a bi-metal device. A bi-metal is two dissimilar metals fused together like a sandwich into a sheet metal strip. When a bi-metal gets hot it bends because one side expands more than the other. This is very repeatable. Then they wrap it with a heater (a nichrome wire). They set the contacts to open when it gets hot, it then cools and repeats over and over. They design it to cycle on 42% of the time and off 58% of the time. That gives you about a 5 volt average over time. Its really a 12v pulse but the gauges don't care, because they are bi-metal too and react slowly to the pulse (this dampening is inherent in the design). My guess is that when the car is started the bi-metal of the voltage regulator is on for much longer than the usual 42% of the time once its hot. That makes the oil gauge come up to pressure sooner.

That certainly makes me rethink going to a 5v digital regulator- that and their reported high failure rates.
 

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Just checked my '65 gauge, yeah it takes like 30 seconds for the needle to settle at full. Starts fast, then slows down. I have never put any thought into that, just been happy I had gotten a gauge that showed an actual fuel level.

Never heard of those electronic regulators being ureliable, there are millions of those in use in all kind of electronic equipment. But electronics can easily be damaged if you do not know how to handle it. The MeterMatch regulator are part of the circuit board inside.
 

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Has anyone else experienced this additional 25 second delay?
I can theorize the reason this may happen...
That certainly makes me rethink going to a 5v digital regulator- that and their reported high failure rates.
I got in my Meter Match and connected it to my fuel sender/gauge. I noticed that the fuel needle sweeps at the same speed as without the Meter Match. It moved from full <E to the F line in about 5 seconds or so.

It was easy to program using the provided instructions. Well packaged (even comes with the flat head and phillips screwdrivers.) One caution is that 18AWG is the largest wire that fits without opening up the holes in the enclosure. I needed to open them up a little for my 16AWG wire.

I have plenty of excess wire to figure out where I'm going to mount it for long-term. My plan right now is to use some aero-grade velcro and attach it to the factory AM radio housing.

Once I run through a tank to verify Meter Match accuracy, I'll report back on this thread.
 
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You could even install it in the trunk or wherever you want. The MeterMatch box does require a +12 volt wire to run, but it doesn't need to be near the fuel gauge.
So if you locate it in the trunk - you could use the wire from the gauge on the sending unit - save ya from taking the dash out.
 
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