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Hey everyone! Im looking to order my camshaft today for my 331 stroker. I want one that is mild, not too aggressive, as the car will be daily driven and also i want to have plenty of PTV clearance. The heads being used are AFR 185s.

Id rather not go custom cam, as time is of the essence, and assume it maybe a few weeks for a custom cam to arrive?

Any recommendations? Cheers!
 

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The best advice is to call a cam company of your choice for free professional advice. I hear there techs at Comp Cams basically read off a scripted flow chart. I was setting thinking of buying a roller cam for my GT40P motor. I wanted to use a Howard's cam. I called a couple times and the techs were great. They asked a lot of questions and took the time to explain. I ended up just sticking with a used HO cam as money was tight. Maybe next year.
 

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camshaft

Spart, how about an MC 24227 it has 299/309/222/232/510/534/112 numbers. It also has the 1 3 7 2 6 5 4 8 firing order. Its an engine pro camshaft, made by Melling. Should be on the shelf somewhere. It is intended for the factory Ford Roller 5.0 blocks. Will run factory hydraulic roller lifters. LSG
 

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Spart, how about an MC 24227 it has 299/309/222/232/510/534/112 numbers. It also has the 1 3 7 2 6 5 4 8 firing order. Its an engine pro camshaft, made by Melling. Should be on the shelf somewhere. It is intended for the factory Ford Roller 5.0 blocks. Will run factory hydraulic roller lifters. LSG
That's very, very close to the Howard's cam I was thinking about. For my use they recommend a 110 LSA over the 112 LSA I wanted to use. For my use they said the 110 LSA would build a little more torque in a tighter range. I wasn't looking to go more then 5500-6000 RPM.

If you can't find the Mellings cam LSG suggested, I know Comptition Products and Summit have the Howard's cam version.
 

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M-6250-b303.
Brand:Ford Performance Parts
Manufacturer's Part Number:M-6250-B303
Part Type:Camshafts
Product Line:Ford Racing Camshafts
UPC: 756122625026
Cam Style: Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 3,000-6,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224 int./224 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 284
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 284
Advertised Duration: 284 int./284 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480 int./0.480 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 112
Computer-Controlled Compatible: Yes
Grind Number: M-6250-B303
Valve Springs Required: Yes
 
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I would suggest the B cam as well. You can even run 1.72 rockers with it. I have this setup in my 306 that runs 12.87s with iron 351 heads.
 

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Just remember, if you go to a roller cam, you must use a steel gear on your distributor shaft.

When I spoke with Howard's they said a regular cast gear will work. Lunati makes the same claim too. Most aftermarket hydraulic roller are hardened ductal iron, SADI and not 5150 billet. Most aftermarket distributors already have Melonized gears that will work just fine with plain old cast iron, SADI roller cams or 5150 billet. If you do need a gear, I found that AutoZone sells a MSD Melonized gear for $29.

V1 made a good point about the use of a steel gear. I found this to be a murky topic. It seems like most of the cam complaint print incomplete information that makes it hard to get a straight answer. The best thing to do is to ask the cam manufacturer on their recommendation of what gear to use.
 

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I personally run the Trick Flow stage 2 cam with my 331. That coupled with a Holley Systemax intake and Trick Flow 170 heads made 354hp at the rear wheels and 358 ft/lbs of torque... Its a little lopey, but not too bad:


and a little more angry:

(its hard to tell from the video, but the ignition was cutting out after 5500rpm. I had to get a CD box to fix, but I probably lost 5-10 horsepower from that issue during the dyno tune.)

Keep in mind, I'm running Spintech mufflers... they're... loud.

But if that's too much, you could always go for the Trick Flow stage 1. Slightly tamer than the TF 2 cam that I have.

Good luck in your search,

-Shannon
 

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Mild roller cams:

Stock H.O. cam with 1.7/1.72 rockers
B cam
F cam
TFS Stage 1 Cam

However, consider that the extra displacement will make your cam behave as though it is smaller (better manors). Nothing about the rest of your build says you want a cam as mild as those listed above. I think matching components to each other is at least as important as choosing the right cam for the desired use. Perhaps the TFS Stage 2 or Anderson B41? The B41 is a "blower cam" but all this means is a two degree wider LSA which will make it seem even more mild.

You've spent a lot on your engine and heads, don't sell it too short with the wrong cam.
 

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I personally run the Trick Flow stage 2 cam with my 331. That coupled with a Holley Systemax intake and Trick Flow 170 heads made 354hp at the rear wheels and 358 ft/lbs of torque... Its a little lopey, but not too bad:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9I-_bSOkj8

and a little more angry:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zaw7vTnqIlI (its hard to tell from the video, but the ignition was cutting out after 5500rpm. I had to get a CD box to fix, but I probably lost 5-10 horsepower from that issue during the dyno tune.)

Keep in mind, I'm running Spintech mufflers... they're... loud.

But if that's too much, you could always go for the Trick Flow stage 1. Slightly tamer than the TF 2 cam that I have.

Good luck in your search,

-Shannon
Those are very good real wheel numbers. Do you recall at what rpm your peak hp/tq numbers were?

Also, do you have power brakes or know what kind of vacuum you have at idle with that cam?
 

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Those are very good real wheel numbers. Do you recall at what rpm your peak hp/tq numbers were?

Also, do you have power brakes or know what kind of vacuum you have at idle with that cam?
Chaplin,

Peak torque was at 4300, but it was over 300 ft/lbs from 2250 and beyond. Peak horsepower was at 5600, but at that point, the ignition was cutting out pretty good. I think it would have done another 5-10hp at around 6000 rpm had my ignition been sorted out.

I don't have power brakes.. But I can put a gauge on it and let you know what vacuum it has at idle.

-Shannon
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for all the advice guys! I think I'm going to go with the ford E303 cam with .495 lift
 

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I had a trick flow stage 1 on my 331 before. Tfs heads also. Split duration, cam. Ran great. I've since moved to a stage 2 tfs and ptv clearance is good. If you have power brakes, grab a reservoir tank
 
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Thanks for all the advice guys! I think I'm going to go with the ford E303 cam with .495 lift
I promise you the B cam is better than the E cam, especially if you use 1.72. I beat many of engines running the E cam.
 

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Thanks for all the advice guys! I think I'm going to go with the ford E303 cam with .495 lift
Sparta,

E cam .498 lift

I am no expert but Im not sure how anyone can recommend a cam for you without knowing what heads, compression ratio, transmission gears, or rear axle ratio you are running. A E cam is a good all around cam but a B cam may actually be better for you. Just putting that out there.

Good luck
Paul
 
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