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Discussion Starter #44
Floor Pans Continued

Photos should be viewable now due to an expired SSL certificate. I’ve been away working on a Netflix film and it has been a busy summer jumping around between commercials and music videos. Good to be back! I was able to spend a week completing the installation of the new floor supports, floor pans, and seat risers. Everything went in with minimal trimming. Measure twice, cut once.





Fitting the RH side. Panels were screwed or clamped into place prior to welding. We also decided to fit and bolt on a pair of sub frame connectors that we had lying around. I think they may function as an effective mounting point for the traction bars. We drilled and spot-welded in a pair of sleeves to reinforce the floor support.







The RH complete. Moving onto the driver’s side. As you can see, the original floor supports were inappropriately used as floor jack mounting points in the past.







I used a transmission cross member to check spacing while maintaining symmetry between the rocker panels.





I welded up six exhaust hanger holes. We also cut out and welded a new trunk to gas tank panel.





A new floor! Not bad for my first major open heart welding surgery.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Seam Sealer, Lizard Skin, and Raptor Liner

I applied SEM 29392 to all floor and trunk seams. I followed up with Eastwood primer. My Father applied lizard skin inside the cabin and trunk.






I sprayed Upol Raptor liner under the car. It is a 2k formula and with a properly prepped surface, it’s incredibly durable.



I media blasted, primed, and painted suspension, bumper, and fastback door trap components. Installing a pair of mid eye leaf rear springs from Mustangs Plus to compliment the shorter 620 coils up front.





Finally, time to assemble! Installed a new fuel line while reusing the existing brake line. The sub frame connectors bolted up. The stock 8” rear end cleaned up nicely with new brake hardware, pads, drums, and parking brake cables. The gearing is an open 3.00, so we may change that out in the future, as it may be too tall for the t5. We will be installing a pair of traction bars that my father had lying around. I don’t think Mom will be going to the drag races, but they have a nice vintage performance look to them on this build. I Media blasted, primed, and painted the hood hinges.



What remains of the original floor pans.

 

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I see you enjoy the fender top work bench that older weak paint affords:)
Did I read earlier it was a silver-blu car with red interior OE? That must have been stunning!


I spent some time cleaning up the grill, media blasting the horns and hinge, finding the missing hardware, painting, and assembling the running horse. It’s nothing show quality, but decent. I also installed the Scott Drake LED parking lights. The blinking slowed and is a bit erratic. According to my research, it looks like I need to install a new flasher relay that is compatible with LED lamps because they do not draw enough juice to reliably trigger the stock relay. I may also need to replace the dash headlight switch, so a few bugs to work out.



Speaking of the stock style halogen headlights: they are not very bright. I did some research and for around $125 I was able to convert the headlights to an LED system including the relay harness. I found some classic looking unsealed 7” H4 headlights on eBay and purchased some daylight (6000 kelvin) balanced LED fixtures. I purchased the Redline Lumtronix Headlight harness from CJ Pony Parts. The installation was simple and since I ran the harness along the top of the radiator support along the stock harness, I had to shorten the driver side feed by about a foot. This was the only modification required. I was able to use stock grounding points and screws. Attached is a link to CJ video install. The LED headlights are about 3x brighter than the stock halogens bulbs.



I mounted to the 3 headlamp relays adjacent to the fan relay along the electric fan bracing. I’ll cut and shorten the fan heat probe harness once I have determined that its heat-absorbing placement on the radiator is effective.





https://www.cjponyparts.com/redline-lumtronix-headlight-power-upgrade-harness-for-two-headlights-1965-1973/p/HVU1/

https://vimeo.com/250147879
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I see you enjoy the fender top work bench that older weak paint affords:)
Did I read earlier it was a silver-blu car with red interior OE? That must have been stunning!
Yes, space is limited, but we manage to get the work done. From what I can tell, the car was originally silver blue with Red/White Pony interior. C code, clutch car, and it was optioned with a full length console.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Wiring, Gas Tank, Trunk Shield, and Insulation

Happy Labor Day weekend! We made more progress over the weekend. We will be adding reverse lights to this car, so I swapped the tail light harness for another that had the back up light wiring. Ultimately, the replacement harness needed some reconditioning.



The yellow fuel sending line had been cut, so I created a new extension. New gas tank and sending unit installed.





The way it used to be prior to restoration. Surprised this even worked.



Present. Looks a little different.



I created a new backup lighting harness that plugs into the T5 transmission using the PG-055 backup lamp wiring pigtail and running up through the tunnel. The plug is located in the driver side of the T5. I added an inline 2-pin Deustch connector. I still need to work out the details of the wiring wiring, but the black is grounded and the hot apparently pulls from an ignition source accessory plug on the fuse panel.



LED reverse bulbs MP-1142-LED that I purchased through CJ Pony Parts. These are Scott Drake reproduction back-up light housings. Super bright and they appear to be around 5,600 kelvin balanced, so near daylight white point.





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60 minutes produced a segment in the late 90s about classic Mustangs concerning an alleged design flaw with the drop-in gas tanks rupturing gasoline into the cabin when involved in a rear-end collision? I only know about what I find on the web, but safety is always a concern when driving old cars. Over time it is reasonable to expect safety and design standards to improve. This is one of the reasons why I prefer restomods, for their modern and mechanical upgrades. Per my Mother’s concerns for safety, my Father and I installed this galvanized gas tank shield. It definitely cleans up the trunk while providing additional strength. I never was a fan of the gas tank actually serving as the trunk floor. Painted black and test fitted in, but we will drill in and seam seal. We may need to slot to accommodate the fastback trap door hinge on the passenger side. I like how the panel hides the gas filler tube and neck. It is a much cleaner aesthetic, but a few things to work out.

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We installed AcoustiSHIELD by Quiet Ride Solutions #MUST 6466-FCCFK within the cabin. The kit includes: Dynamat damper pads, pre-trimmed heat barrier panels, spray adhesive, and a roll of foil aluminum tape. The barrier panels went in with no trimming required.



 

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The PS is leaking because someone left off the band clamp that secures the steel tubes to the valve body.
 

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If you are concerned about the gas tank rupturing in a hit-from-behind accident look at Kelly_H's photos of Jane.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Power Steering Control Valve and Ram

The PS is leaking because someone left off the band clamp that secures the steel tubes to the valve body.
New power steering control valve and ram installed. We can rebuild the old one or use as a core for an exchange. Cleaned up the tie rods, center link, new bushings, replaced one of the hoses, and new cotter pins.

 

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Discussion Starter #54
Safety

If you are concerned about the gas tank rupturing in a hit-from-behind accident look at Kelly_H's photos of Jane.
I agree with you. I drove my 1968 Mustang daily from High School through Junior College. In regards to safety, I was probably more concerned about low back seats, 2 point seat belts, and a non collapsible steering column (68 was the first year to carry a collapsible steering column, but my car was equipped with a 67 tilt column.) The sloppy front drum brakes would probably top my list of safety flaws with these vintage cars. Fortunately the majority of these things can be easily addressed today. In regards to the gas tank shield, my Mom prefers it and whom am I to argue with my Mom? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Driveline, Sequential Tail Lamps, and Backup Lights

After some research and taking a few measurements between the t-5 and stock 8” pumpkin, we determined that we could use our original driveshaft by cutting 1” from the slip yoke. The U joints looked good, so after a little sanding and paint, we bolted it up. We drained the t-5 fluid and refilled with 2.5 quarts of synthetic ATF. I cleaned, media blasted, painted, and installed the remaining parking brake hardware.



Media blasted the original tail light housings, primed, and painted metal grey. I Continued with installing the Scott Drake LED sequential tail light kit #SDK-C5ZZ-LED-STL. Swapped out the stock blinker under the dash with the LED flasher unit. Red to orange and blue to green. The LED blinker flasher has an additional black wire, which is grounded to the chassis. Simple install.




I finished wiring the reverse lights by mimicking a factory-wiring diagram. I drilled a ¼ hole behind the shifter and ran the harness that plugs into the LH side of the t-5, up through the tunnel and across the driver floor pan. The black wire plugs into the tail light harness that runs under the LH doorsill to the trunk. The red wire plugs into the accessory feed, which comes directly from the factory fuse panel. Bolted up the rear valance with backup lights. It took a little time to diagnose, but I had to grind away some Lizardskin and pain from under the tail light housings for ground. The brake lights, sequential signals, and LED 5600k reverse lights are good to go! I prefer the daylight-balanced sources versus the warmer 3200k incandescent tungsten bulbs. However, the reverse light switch within the t-5 is a little too sensitive to shifter placement, so something else I have to learn about and possibly replace.





Started to fit and trim the carpet. The t-5 that we have came from a 1987 5.0 Mustang so it is a world-class model. Apparently it has an aftermarket Hurst short throw shifter mechanism, which is a nice surprise. Test fitting the console and bolted up a 65-66 stock looking t-5 shifter C5ZZ-7210-T. The reverse lock out lever is non-functional, but unnecessary for a t-5.



My Father gets all the credit for selecting the rims and rubber. The tires are a little thin for my taste at 205/55R16, but they should be a nice mild street combo in conjunction with the stiff 620 coils and 1” front sway bar. You probably recognize the rims with spinners, as I believe they are factory original equipment on a 2005-2009 V6 Mustang. The rims are 16 x 7 with 39mm offset. Thus we are using 1.25” wheel spacers for the front and back. If I didn’t know any better, I’d say they look pretty darn close to those replica Shelby style rims, but at a fraction of the price.

 

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Where did you get the piece that you installed over the gas tank?
Wondering the same thing! I used Tank Armor (Tank Armor) on the '68 I'm rebuilding right now. I used the '70 model because it offers the option to go to a 22 gallon tank in the future. Growing up with a '66, I never liked the trunk floor being the fuel tank either, so this was done for some rigidity and safety but also convenience of having a solid floor. I'm still going to build a MDF false floor too.

Build is looking great! I can't wait to rebuild a convertible for my wife one day, just like you're doing for your mom, such a great son!!!
 
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