I spent some time cleaning up the grill, media blasting the horns and hinge, finding the missing hardware, painting, and assembling the running horse. It’s nothing show quality, but decent. I also installed the Scott Drake LED parking lights. The blinking slowed and is a bit erratic. According to my research, it looks like I need to install a new flasher relay that is compatible with LED lamps because they do not draw enough juice to reliably trigger the stock relay. I may also need to replace the dash headlight switch, so a few bugs to work out.
Speaking of the stock style halogen headlights: they are not very bright. I did some research and for around $125 I was able to convert the headlights to an LED system including the relay harness. I found some classic looking unsealed 7” H4 headlights on eBay and purchased some daylight (6000 kelvin) balanced LED fixtures. I purchased the Redline Lumtronix Headlight harness from CJ Pony Parts. The installation was simple and since I ran the harness along the top of the radiator support along the stock harness, I had to shorten the driver side feed by about a foot. This was the only modification required. I was able to use stock grounding points and screws. Attached is a link to CJ video install. The LED headlights are about 3x brighter than the stock halogens bulbs.
I mounted to the 3 headlamp relays adjacent to the fan relay along the electric fan bracing. I’ll cut and shorten the fan heat probe harness once I have determined that its heat-absorbing placement on the radiator is effective.
Yes, space is limited, but we manage to get the work done. From what I can tell, the car was originally silver blue with Red/White Pony interior. C code, clutch car, and it was optioned with a full length console.I see you enjoy the fender top work bench that older weak paint affords
Did I read earlier it was a silver-blu car with red interior OE? That must have been stunning!
New power steering control valve and ram installed. We can rebuild the old one or use as a core for an exchange. Cleaned up the tie rods, center link, new bushings, replaced one of the hoses, and new cotter pins.The PS is leaking because someone left off the band clamp that secures the steel tubes to the valve body.
I agree with you. I drove my 1968 Mustang daily from High School through Junior College. In regards to safety, I was probably more concerned about low back seats, 2 point seat belts, and a non collapsible steering column (68 was the first year to carry a collapsible steering column, but my car was equipped with a 67 tilt column.) The sloppy front drum brakes would probably top my list of safety flaws with these vintage cars. Fortunately the majority of these things can be easily addressed today. In regards to the gas tank shield, my Mom prefers it and whom am I to argue with my Mom?If you are concerned about the gas tank rupturing in a hit-from-behind accident look at Kelly_H's photos of Jane.
Wondering the same thing! I used Tank Armor (Tank Armor) on the '68 I'm rebuilding right now. I used the '70 model because it offers the option to go to a 22 gallon tank in the future. Growing up with a '66, I never liked the trunk floor being the fuel tank either, so this was done for some rigidity and safety but also convenience of having a solid floor. I'm still going to build a MDF false floor too.Where did you get the piece that you installed over the gas tank?