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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am about to order the Aluminum heads mentioned in another post. It is for a 2000 Factory Ford Rebuilt 5.0 out of a Bronco (wrecked, I was told Border Patrol vehicle.) I plan on making it a 347 stroker eventually, mild cammed engine for street use. I am looking for power and reliability, EFI also. What should I ask for in these heads? What is the difference between stud mount adjustable rockers and pedestal mount non adjustable rockers (advantages/disadvantages?) How does this affect the ability to run roller rockers? What else do I need to look out for? I am not planning on putting the engine together for quite some time, but I don't want to find out when it is too late that I bought the wrong heads! Specs from seller below:

Specifications below:

Australian A356 castings machined and assembled in USA

1.94 swirl polished stainless intake valves
1.54 swirl polished stainless exhaust valves
5 angle valve job
Hardened seats
Bronze guides PC seals hardened keepers and retainers
Double valve springs set for up to .550 lift
Hardened 3/8 rocker arm studs and guide plates
Fully assembled

180 cc intake runners
62 cc exhaust runners
58 cc combustion chambers

You will not find a better street performance or street and strip head for your 289-351W SBF ANYWHERE
for this price.

No brag, just fact!

Call 219-861-1214

or e-mail

[email protected]
 

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These heads are similar to the GT40X heads but with a few key upgrades like the 5 angle valve grinds. They flow a bit less than AFR 165s (but those are $500 more), but should provide more than enough torque for what you describe ("mild" street 347).

Flow numbers @ 28" water

Intake
.100 = 61.5 CFM
.200 = 124
.300 = 178
.400 = 209
.500 = 223
.600 = 248

Exhaust
.100 = 56.6
.200 = 98
.300 = 119
.400 = 137
.500 = 161
.600 = 191

What this means is that the heads should work well on the street with a 347 and mildish cam (although "mild" is like hot sauce--what one guy calls mild may make you cry and beg for water). As you up the power level or go wild on the cam (like a comp 282S) you might leave some HP on the table compared to an AFR 185 or similar sized head. Email Alex and see what he says. He's a great guy to deal with and will honestly tell you if the heads will work with what you plan.

As far as pedestal mount vs stud mounts, generally stud mounts allow more adjustability, but pedestal mounts are easier to install. They offer some adjustability with shims, but not to the extent screw-in studs do. If you have a big cam with lots of lift or if you have a lot of spring pressure (which you probably won't with street emphasis), skip the pedestal and go for screw in studs. Just get ready to adjust them a lot unless you get poly locks. ;) For street use, the pedestal mounts work well and don't need adjustment (why I got them on my Edelbrock heads).

There are several threads on Mustangsandmore about these heads. The price is pretty hard to beat for what you get, but they may not be what you want. Mild to one guy isn't mild to another.

Daniel
 

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BornInAFord said:
Flow numbers @ 28" water

Intake
.100 = 61.5 CFM
.200 = 124
.300 = 178
.400 = 209
.500 = 223
.600 = 248

Exhaust
.100 = 56.6
.200 = 98
.300 = 119
.400 = 137
.500 = 161
.600 = 191

What this means is that the heads should work well on the street with a 347 and mildish cam (although "mild" is like hot sauce--what one guy calls mild may make you cry and beg for water). As you up the power level or go wild on the cam (like a comp 282S) you might leave some HP on the table compared to an AFR 185 or similar sized head. Email Alex and see what he says. He's a great guy to deal with and will honestly tell you if the heads will work with what you plan.
I would not hesitate to call Alex. He will help you with your decision.

Interesting how you consider the 282S a wild cam Daniel...I like it though! Just reinforces your comment about how what's mild for one may be wild for another.

Isn't it kinda odd that the exhaust flow takes a significant jump upwards from .5 to .6? Almost 20%...it really jumps out at me. It may indicate that the curtain is still an issue at .5 which it should not be...something else must be going on inside that port or 191 was a typo. I bet some mild cleanup and porting would be in order on those exhaust ports...probably the intakes too.
 

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As far as the 282S, yeah, it really depends what you consider "wild". I just remembered that that's what you drive around on the street. ;) The lifts and ramps are important, too, as are the other components in the system (like heads, valve springs, exhaust, intake and carb). What you have as "mild" on your 331 combo would respond much differently on a 289 with stock heads and 4bbl intake/4100 carb. :cheers:

I was on the AFR website and they have a lot of AFR writeups from popular magazines over the years. One article with flow numbers show that the AFR 165 flows more than Moneymaker's on the exhaust side until the 0.600 lift. The AFR flow levels at around 180CFM at 0.500 where Moneymaker's heads keep going and pass them. Flow numbers provide a data set and can be useful in comparing, but shouldn't be the only number one looks at in buying a set of heads. Quality of flow, ratio of flow to cross-section and combustion chamber shape all play a part. :D

Having worked with analytical equipment much of my adult life, I wonder about flow number consistency, sometimes. Flow benches vary as do the operators. It's similar to the CFM of carburetors. Edelbrock and Holley use different methods to report CFM and a 600CFM carb from one will somewhat outflow the other in independent testing...

You are right--the heads may respond very well to some minor work. I'd ask Alex, first, though since he chose that combo of parts and head for a reason. :)


Daniel
 

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I think he signed up as a VMF member, i saw a post by him the other day. Perhaps you could PM or maybe he will chime in.

We sure seem to be getting some big hitters lately, The JBA guy, REENMACHINE, MONEYMAKER... :thumbsup:
 

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I wonder how good the combustion chambers are compared to a trick flow. I assume they are better.

The trick flows look like a killer deal at $995, and flow about 20% better if I remember my guestimations correctly. However, I want good gas mileage, which has a lot less to do with flow bench numbers.

Any thoughts?
 

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Smaller valves = better velocity.
Better velocity = more efficiancy.
More efficiancy = better fuel economy.



Why have a 20% better flowing head when the cam, induction, and exhaust typically used on most hot street applications cannot support it? IMHO
 

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Hope they listen better to you than me, Alex :D

So many here focus on one area rather than pursuing a balanced combination (the entire vehicle operating as one entity).

Good luck! :)

Pat
 

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Moneymaker said:
Smaller valves = better velocity.
Better velocity = more efficiancy.
More efficiancy = better fuel economy.



Why have a 20% better flowing head when the cam, induction, and exhaust typically used on most hot street applications cannot support it? IMHO
I plan on using the TFS street heat EFI intake, along with my turbochargers. Cam will be stock, maybe with 1.7 roller rockers. It should be a potent little system.

Granted, I am trying to do a lot of competing things, but hey... thats where the fun is. The turbos and stock cam should allow me to keep the efficiency pretty good while having good power numbers.

On the other hand I could just settle for a cobra intake and these gt40x heads, but they will limit my power. The more power I can make in the mid range without cranking the boost and/or the RPMs, the happier the stock block should be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have been emailing Alex, and was looking for a second opinion. He really takes the time to answer questions, but I thought I'd throw it to the VMF crowd. Some of the things I really like, besides the performance gain and price, is the fact that they are from Australia and not China and they are Aluminum=less weight than the cast iron heads. I will be ordering these very, very soon!!!

Anyone interested in a pair of like new cast Iron heads from a Factory rebuilt engine, email me, and I'll send you pictures (heads removed and look like they've never been run!).
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well all, I have been emailing Alex constantly, and at all hours and by his quick informative responses, I am convinced he eats, sleeps and breaths Fords. He really know his stuff. I bought a set of these heads today!!! I can't wait to see them up close.

I agree with his philosophy of building and buying only what you need.

I agree that for most of us humans, we are looking for a nice strong street engine with good reliability and these heads should fit that recipe quite nicely.

Why spend double when you can save the money and add things like a cam, headers or roller rockers with the savings? I like the idea of building a balanced (parts matched) engine and since I am not racing or spending tons of $$ in my bottom end, why tie up a ton in the heads when the rest of the engine really can't use the potential. My car will never see 7000 rpm, so why should my heads be set up for it??

Like I used to say, why buy the fastest computer when you are only running word processing, your fingers couldn't type fast enough to tax any microprocessor (Now graphics and games that's a different story)? Any ways I'm stoked!
 

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:cool: Give us some feedback when you get and when you install the heads. :D I'm sure you will be impressed. We want to hear why. :jump:
Daniel
 

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Well all, I have been emailing Alex constantly, and at all hours and by his quick informative responses, I am convinced he eats, sleeps and breaths Fords. He really know his stuff. I bought a set of these heads today!!! I can't wait to see them up close.
Any successful Super Stock racer has to breathe his/her avocation and Alex has been successful for a long time. If he's bringing this product to market, trust me there's been a long-term (years) commitment to its design and construction.

IME, going to aluminum heads years ago gave me the freedom to run a Windsor instead of the little engines and still keep the front to rear weight ratios in the race car static with little weight gain, not to mention the performance boost in an unmodified state. I spent a lot of time massaging iron heads in the distant past (back before aluminum heads were available) and I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at your result.

Pat
 
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