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Hi all,

Got the monte carlo bar. Apparently the easiest thing I can install on my car.
Won't fit. The bar is about 1/2 inch too wide (actually, my shock towers are obviously bent in 1/2 inch too much :)).
Tried brute force. No success. Have up after 45 minutes.
Research indicates I should Jack the car up at the "LCA pivot points" and let it "rest to sag" for a couple of days.
Can someone send me a photo of where exactly I should place my Jack stands so I don't cause more damage than necessary?

Photos 1&2 are of the bar.
Photo 3 is where I think I should Jack it up, but it doesn't make sense to me.

Thanks in advance.
Rui


1966 289 Auto Coupe
 

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use that bar/tube that goes under the oil pan ,jack it up with that and let it hang. Be careful not to get the center link of the suspension that is behind it.
If that doesn't work ,loosen but don't remove the bolts in cowl brace bars
I'm thinking it would also be a good idea to loosen all the fender fasteners too. Not just the visible ones on top of the aprons either. ALL of them.
 

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Hi all,

Got the monte carlo bar. Apparently the easiest thing I can install on my car.
Nothing is easy when it comes to installing anything that attaches at or near the shock towers of a 50+ year old car! Your going to need some 5/16 x 1" carriage bolts for the top. Good luck!
 

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Nothing is easy when it comes to installing anything that attaches at or near the shock towers of a 50+ year old car! Your going to need some 5/16 x 1" carriage bolts for the top. Good luck!
? Mine uses regular fender style bolts at the top and sides ?
Edit I do see the square holes in the top of the OP's mine are round ,,wonder whats up with that ?
 

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FYI...the Export brace does way more than the Monte Carlo bar. Remove the mostly useless cowl to shock tower braces completely. Grind off the remaining brackets on the shock towers. Jack up the car and support it under the LCA frame connections with jack stands. Order a Scott Drake HD Export Brace. By the time it arrives, your shock towers will most likely have relaxed enough to everything fall into place.
 

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? Mine uses regular fender style bolts at the top and sides ?
Edit I do see the square holes in the top of the OP's mine are round ,,wonder whats up with that ?
I started with the factory bolts, but when I checked clearance to the hood with some clay I found almost none so I changed to the carriage bolts.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
use that bar/tube that goes under the oil pan ,jack it up with that and let it hang. Be careful not to get the center link of the suspension that is behind it.
If that doesn't work ,loosen but don't remove the bolts in cowl brace bars
This one? (Export brace ordered!)


1966 289 Auto Coupe
 
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Watch this:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ax-fpGsJmig" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I didn't have to spread the shock towers but it goes over everything.
 
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^^sometimes I'm glad mine led most of it's life as a 6cyl,,my export brace dropped right in^^
Same here. No doubt being a rust free California car helped too. "Dropped in" may have been a bit of an exaggeration, but nothing a little persuading at the fire wall with a round screwdriver could not align.
 

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I just installed an export brace and Monte Carlo bar this weekend on my 66. See Uncle Buck's 66 thread.

My towers were 5/8" in.

This is what I did. It wasn't easy.

First I installed the export brace loosely on the cowl and laid it on the towers. Even after jacking up the car in various locations I had no luck. Initially I thought there was no way the export brace was going to fit. It just seemed way too far out.

I then disconnected it at the cowl and installed it at one of the towers. It still didn't fit the other tower. I then jack up the car at cross member under the engine. That didn't help much. I then placed stands beside the lca connection points. I think I was actually on the bottom side of the engine mounts. This seemed to help move the towers. I used a ractchet strap to give the loose end of the export brace a bit of a squeeze.
After a bit of forcing, I did get it to drop onto the second tower.

At this point I decided to install the MC bar. It was tight but went on ok.

Unfortunately, the holes in the export brace at the cowl didn't line up now. They were good left to right but were behind the cowl holes about one full hole width.

I then set stands at the rear of the front rails and let the car sit that way overnight.

In the morning I could see a bit of the hole so used an alignment punch to force better alignment. I then used a few longer bolts, started on a bit of an angle to pull it into place. Once I had the longer bolts in place I swapped then one at a time for the correct bolts and tighten them all down at the cowl.

At this point I snugged up the shock cap bolts to spec and had a victory beer.

I still can't believe it actually went in.
 

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I just installed an export brace and Monte Carlo bar this weekend on my 66. See Uncle Buck's 66 thread.

My towers were 5/8" in.

This is what I did. It wasn't easy.

First I installed the export brace loosely on the cowl and laid it on the towers. Even after jacking up the car in various locations I had no luck. Initially I thought there was no way the export brace was going to fit. It just seemed way too far out.

I then disconnected it at the cowl and installed it at one of the towers. It still didn't fit the other tower. I then jack up the car at cross member under the engine. That didn't help much. I then placed stands beside the lca connection points. I think I was actually on the bottom side of the engine mounts. This seemed to help move the towers. I used a ractchet strap to give the loose end of the export brace a bit of a squeeze.
After a bit of forcing, I did get it to drop onto the second tower.

At this point I decided to install the MC bar. It was tight but went on ok.

Unfortunately, the holes in the export brace at the cowl didn't line up now. They were good left to right but were behind the cowl holes about one full hole width.

I then set stands at the rear of the front rails and let the car sit that way overnight.

In the morning I could see a bit of the hole so used an alignment punch to force better alignment. I then used a few longer bolts, started on a bit of an angle to pull it into place. Once I had the longer bolts in place I swapped then one at a time for the correct bolts and tighten them all down at the cowl.

At this point I snugged up the shock cap bolts to spec and had a victory beer.

I still can't believe it actually went in.
Pretty much the same procedures I used.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
You may as well install an export brace while you're at it.
Got the export brace. Tried to remove the shock tower caps. 3 of the bolts just spun freely with the nuts. Tried everything (PB Blaster, screwdriver as a wedge).
If I cut the bolts off, how hard is it top install new ones? I don't have ant equipment to compress the shocks if I remove them.

1966 289 Auto Coupe
 

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Got the export brace. Tried to remove the shock tower caps. 3 of the bolts just spun freely with the nuts. Tried everything (PB Blaster, screwdriver as a wedge).
If I cut the bolts off, how hard is it top install new ones? I don't have ant equipment to compress the shocks if I remove them.

1966 289 Auto Coupe
They can be installed easily with the coil spring installed. You may need to tap them in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
There was just a whole discussion about those shock tower bolts right over here.
Thanks - thought I'd exhausted all the forums - must have missed this one!

1966 289 Auto Coupe
 
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