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I spread my shock towers by jamming a 2x4 in there...but I could get away with that with no engine in place and the fact that scratching the paint means nothing in the middle of a full restoration...you could almost certainly easily spread the towers with a cleverly placed bumper jack though...or something similar(a couple of scaffold jack pads on either side of a tube, etc) using rags or whatever to protect the paint


When I put in my export brace, one of my bolts spun...I jammed a screwdriver along the flat side it to keep it from spinning. Worked out ok.
This rarely works...the shoulder on the stock bolts is just too small, once it starts spinning, its already stripped most of it away...garbage hardware...I replaced them with real carriage bolts ASAP...I did have to tap them into place since they are a tighter fit above the spring isolator, but they are far better....it also allowed me to go with more length...useful for what I was doing.
 

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I used one of those Port-A-Powerrs from HF and a piece of wood. Worked great to drop in my export brace. I think I moved the towers an 1inch or so.


Small bottle jack and piece of 2x4 cut to appropriate length (plus rags/rubber to protect paint) Couldn’t have been simpler.


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Discussion Starter #25
Ended up sagging enough that a rubber mallet and some guiding bolts enabled the installation.

Thanks everyone, and once again this forum has helped me heaps.


1966 289 Auto Coupe
 

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Now the export brace will only be almost impossible! Congrats!
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Now the export brace will only be almost impossible! Congrats!
Lol. Just waiting for the new shock tower cap bolts and I'll step into that project! Got new wheels, windshield washer pump and tail light bezels installed today, and readjusted the hood alignment (monte carlo bar installation threw it way out!). Ready as it is going to be for the NRA car show tomorrow.

1966 289 Auto Coupe
 

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Don't forget to get the front end aligned. I'm sure your camber changed.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Don't forget to get the front end aligned. I'm sure your camber changed.
Thanks. I'll make sure that's on the to do list once I install the export brace!

1966 289 Auto Coupe
 

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Weird how your bar leaned toward the front of the car and mine toward the back?
 

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My understanding is after jacking the car up, it may take a day or two for things to settle where they belong.

On my C-code 65, the monte carlo bar will drop right in, I havent tried the export brace yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Weird how your bar leaned toward the front of the car and mine toward the back?
I think mine did that because of how we laid it in before using the rubber mallet and power drill to get it into place :)

1966 289 Auto Coupe
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Weird how your bar leaned toward the front of the car and mine toward the back?
And where are your shock absorbers? Mine stick out the top of the shock housing caps.

1966 289 Auto Coupe
 

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And where are your shock absorbers? Mine stick out the top of the shock housing caps.

1966 289 Auto Coupe
Yea, Street or Track coil overs. It's a disease!
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Export brace installed. New shocks coming on Tuesday (maybe I should have waited and done it all at once).

Next is replacing the exhaust donut - just have to find a way to get to those damn nuts, borrowed an impact drill, but can't get it under there, and can't seem to get any leverage under there to use a wrench :(


1966 289 Auto Coupe
 

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They're and odd size, 11/16" I believe, and I sprayed mine with PB Blaster a couple days before then used a universal joint on the socket and a long extension to get 'em .
 

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Discussion Starter #37
They're and odd size, 11/16" I believe, and I sprayed mine with PB Blaster a couple days before then used a universal joint on the socket and a long extension to get 'em .
11/16 is correct. I'll try the universal joint and extension before I start the car, otherwise I plan on taking it in to the workshop on Tt Belvoir next week and seeing if they can help.

1966 289 Auto Coupe
 

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5/8" is the standard size hex for a 7/16" bolt and nut but Ford 7/16" bolts and nuts have an 11/16" hex. If the exhaust manifold studs have steel nuts on them replace them with brass nuts to prevent the rust problem in the future.
 

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Export brace installed. New shocks coming on Tuesday (maybe I should have waited and done it all at once).

Next is replacing the exhaust donut - just have to find a way to get to those damn nuts, borrowed an impact drill, but can't get it under there, and can't seem to get any leverage under there to use a wrench :(


1966 289 Auto Coupe
From under the car using socket extensions you can usually reach it.
 
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