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Discussion Starter #41
From under the car using socket extensions you can usually reach it.
I was trying to do it in my garage, and I don't have any lifting equipment. I'll take it in to the workshop and get it on the lift - should make it easier to get to groin underneath. Now my only concern is if the bolts break. Don't know when the last time it was removed was. Could be 5 years, could be 53. :/ going off my experience with this car, I'm putting my money on the latter!

1966 289 Auto Coupe
 

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Discussion Starter #43
What AC bracket are you using ? It sits nice and low.


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It is the one that came with the Classic Auto Air Daily Driver kit I purchased (through CJ's, but came directly freon the manufacturer). I will have a closer look and see if there are any part details either on the bracket, in the instruction manual, or on the invoice.

1966 289 Auto Coupe
 

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Happy endings are always free! Nice to see this getting sorted.

Export brace installed. New shocks coming on Tuesday (maybe I should have waited and done it all at once).

Next is replacing the exhaust donut - just have to find a way to get to those damn nuts, borrowed an impact drill, but can't get it under there, and can't seem to get any leverage under there to use a wrench :(


1966 289 Auto Coupe
 

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Should I tighten the bolts on the Monte Carlo bar while it's still jacked up in the middle of the engine crossmember?

Or do I follow the same principle as with suspension - don't tighten until the car is back on the ground?

Thanks
 

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1966 Mustang Hardtop 289 4 Speed
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I started with the factory bolts, but when I checked clearance to the hood with some clay I found almost none so I changed to the carriage bolts.
Same for me when I checked my homemade bar for fit. I thought the issue was my repro hood. Carriage bolts are my only option and I'm fine with that. Btw, the bar I bought initially was just manufactured too long. My SD export brace was already bolted on the car and I had to cut a nice chunk out of that first monte carlo bar to fit.
 

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My 66 is very solid. My export brace didn't want to fit either. Even after jacking it up. So I cut and welded the brace to fit.
 

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Ive read through several of these threads the past week as I was getting ready to install the braces and bars in both my 65 and 67.

My 65 uses 5/16-24 bolts for the shock cap.

My 67 uses 3/8-16 bolts for the shock cap.

"Uses" means that is what is on the car and they loon oem to me.

I could have squeezed the 3/8 bolts on the 65 but I would have had to grind the head flatter and file the shoulders down a bit.

I used the oem bolts on the 65 and Im not happy with them. After adding the STB, I think I need a 3/4" long bolt vice the 1/2" long bolt, so this winter Im changing them out.
 

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In have a TC export brace coming on Thursday. Hoping I do not have to much trouble getting it on.....I think it will go in fine. Can be adjusted :) I will look to the monte bar next.
 

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My 66 is very solid. My export brace didn't want to fit either. Even after jacking it up. So I cut and welded the brace to fit.
I had to take about 3/8" out of mine. I tried everything to get it to fit, but had to cut and weld it to get it to fit.
With the tolerances these cars had and the life they led, I should be happy with only having to cut 3/8" out!
 

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If you cut your MC bar, where do you cut it to minimise loss of torsional strength?
I cut mine one third of the way across.
After cutting the bar, I drilled three holes equidistant (120 degrees apart)through the bar on each side of the cut.
I then placed an an appropriate piece of tubing(tight fit) 4" long inside of the bar.
I plug welded the holes and then welded the cut. The inserted tubing helps to keep the bar straight.
If I wanted to do it the aircraft way, I could have cut the tube on a diagonal. No way was I going to all that trouble!
 
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