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This week's episode, "The Good, The Bad, and the Ugly". It's tough to show the car's deepest darkest secrets to everyone. Kinda like going to school with no clothes on.

http://www.blueriver.net/~finite/mopower.htm

You definitely need to check out the headers I bought used for $25. They had surface rust, which I fixed and then coated them with umpteen coats of that "ceramic" paint. Hey, they aren't the stainless steel jobbies I really want, but then again they didn't cost $600.

By the way Bishir. The spotweld cutter I got from NPD sucks. It got dull even before I finished with the third spot weld. I'm going to switch to a drill bit.

Anyway those who are interested check out the page. Sorry it's getting so big. Comments are always welcome.

Phil

'65 Convertible (with many mods.)
http://www.blueriver.net/~finite/Pony.htm
 
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Although you didn't note it in the text of project more power.
How did you remove the ridge from the cylinder bores.
Did you replace the main bearings?And was the new cam and crank left in the block during the honing and washing operation?

Greg B
 

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What is the Ceramic paint? Does it work well? Where can I get it?
Thanks


John

66 coupe 289 2v C4 needs restore
70 coupe 351W 2v c4 almost done (?)
 

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Phil,

If you continue to have problems sourcing that monte carlo bar, try www.larrysmustang.com . I got both it and the export brace there yesterday, and they had 5 more each in stock for both black and chrome (I chose black). The motor looks great!

Shannon a.k.a. The ShanMan! /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
66' Vintage Burgundy C-code coupe (mine)
95' XLT Ranger (mine)
01' GLX 1.8T New Beetle (hers)
 

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I'm sorry, this is the first engine I've ever had this far apart. I don't know what ridge you are talking about. There wans't any ridge that I could see. This engine was "rebuilt" by PO 10,000 miles ago, so maybe that's part of the answer. I didn't replace the bearings, as they only have 10,000 miles on them. Yes on the crank and cam. I followed the machine shops advice (with some trepidation) on this issue. I did exactly what they told me to do. Obviously I had to relube the cam lobes when I got done, which was kind of a pain.

I'm not saying by any means that this was the ideal way to rebuild a short block. The whole point of this project was not to touch the bottom end of the engine, as my 3 year plan was to do the heads now and then move them over to a new CHP 347 short block in a couple of years. Unfortunately this wasn't possible due to the piston situation.

Phil

'65 Convertible (with many mods.)
http://www.blueriver.net/~finite/Pony.htm
 

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I got mine in the spray paint section of the auto parts store. It's supposedly good to 1500 degrees.

My brother used it on his race car headers and he says they still look great after 2 seasons. One thing he told me was critical is to wear rubber gloves after you prep them. He says the least little bit of even skin oil will cause the paint to blister later.

Don't know. Ask me in a year. I bought these things 2 years ago and preped and painted them then. But, they've never been on the car. After 2 summers in the rafters of my barn, at least the paint will be well cured.

Phil

'65 Convertible (with many mods.)
http://www.blueriver.net/~finite/Pony.htm
 

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