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Discussion Starter #23
I'm sick of not having a functioning parking brake, and before I bother with adjusting what's there, I felt it was time to just rebuild the drums out back. Unfortunately, I got a late start to the day and the drums were so grimy, I only got one side completed. But lessons were learned and the next side should go more quickly. I also grabbed a new rubber line...actually, I picked up two because I have been working on IRS cars for too long and thought I needed one for each side. At some point I thought, "man, I should have ordered that middle line with the dist. block on it...oh crap." Oh well, now I have a spare! Maybe it'll end up in the classifieds.

I also have a set of stainless braided lines for the front, which I'll replace before bleeding the whole system and setting the parking brake for good.







Some of the shoe "pads" were pretty chewed up, but I did not have my welder with me and I'll wait to see if this is really causing any issues with the shoes catching before I go that far. I did sand them a bit to smooth it out.

 

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Discussion Starter #24
One of my recent trips out to the car ended in me removing the hood latch. It's very loose and has been a pain to use. I also used to have hood pins installed (the cheap chrome-plated kind), but I always have to push down on the rear of the hood when lowering it for everything to line up. Yeah, I need new hinges as well, I guess. The reason I got those pins in the first place was that one day years ago, I was heading home from work and the hood snapped up while going 40-50mph or so. That was a bit of a scare, and luckily I was working a night shift and the road was clear. But yikes!

Well, I've been wanting a better hood pin, and need a new latch, and also haven't had a way to lock the hood. I'm sure this isn't for everyone, but I ended up grabbing these Aerocatch locking hood pins/latches. I still have to fix the alignment issue as the hood closes, but I've been dealing with this for close to 20 years, so whatever. I'm pretty stoked on this and should be able to use the holes I previously drilled as a starting point.

 

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Discussion Starter #25
Had another trip out to the car over the weekend...and realized when I got there that I didn't bring the damn keys! I swore I left a spare set, but my friends tell me they don't have em. That made for a really frustrating Saturday. Not to mention the other goal was to work on the pop-up camper that my GF and I are trying to restore. Found a(nother) mouse living in it and couldn't make any real progress since that has to be dealt with first and foremost. Not our best project day, for sure.

I did manage to line up the Aerocatch latches and draw out where to cut since I already had holes from the old hood pins. I also peeked around to see how difficult it would be to get the clutch equalizer bar out, and even though it looks like a holy mess from up top, I got confirmation in another thread that I can access everything from under the car.

The rear is still up on stands from working on the drums (and I didn't want to deal with the jack this trip) so the front was a bit too low to really inspect anything besides the growing rip in the driver's side floorpan. That'll need to be addressed soon, but I'm already expecting to take out the seat so I can get to the pedal support, so I'll take a look and see how much metal really needs to be cut/replaced. So far as I can tell, that's the only bad spot underneath. But due to the above mention of mice, I shoved some boxes underneath to keep the flap-like opening closed for now.

Oh, I also picked up a CTEK charger so I could keep my battery maintained rather than continuing to ask my buddy for jump starts. Damn thing did not even recognize something was attached, so I guess that means the battery is beyond dead. At least the next one will be kept alive.

I long for the day when this car will be in my own garage and I can just walk out there whenever I want. Or take things out and leave them aside without worrying that I'm taking up too much space in someone else's garage. Probably need to leave Southern California for that pipe dream.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Oof...almost forgot until I checked my notes from Saturday. I have a fuel and a water leak. Fuel is just barely dribbling out of where the hard line connects to hose for the pump inlet. I'll need to double-check, but I think the pump is 3/8" and the hard line is 5/16" and the hose is just not making a tight seal. I'll need to find a 5/16" fitting for the Holley pump.

Coolant is pooled up on the timing cover right under the thermostat housing, but no sign of the drip itself. It almost looks like the water pump gasket is leaking, but I mopped it up and will see what I can discover next time.

Both are probably exacerbated by the rear being raised up right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
how do you like those tires ? i have the same ones, i seen a few good reviews they seen like a good deal for a performance tire.
They were pretty decent...about 8 yrs ago. LOL I've had this set on 2 or 3 Subarus at this point and they're fairly hammered. For now they just keep the rims off the ground. I knew a guy who runs a drift shop and this was one of the tires he could get lots of cheaply. For a budget tire, they're pretty good, but these are the older 595SS (I think they changed the model name). The 595RSR was far stickier, but was out of my budget at the time. I'm told the drift guys turn the rears around backwards for more slippage.

I was much happier when I upgraded to Michelin Pilot Super Sports and ran those on my last DD. I did not want to buck up for those in 18" on my current DD, but they're amazing all-around tires.
 

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Excellent progress - I like what you’ve done.

One question though, and I hope this doesn’t come across wrong... are you comfortable with running the Aerocatch pins without a hood latch? I considered them because the look is badass, but my research made me go a different direction. If I recall, they told me in pretty plain terms NOT to use it without a hood latch.
 

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Nice neighborhood. I bet the neighbors are loving you.

I live in a 55+ neighborhood. They all drive luxury cars and small SUVs.

Im the guy they roll their eyes at and say, "We moved in here to get away from people like that."
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Excellent progress - I like what you’ve done.

One question though, and I hope this doesn’t come across wrong... are you comfortable with running the Aerocatch pins without a hood latch? I considered them because the look is badass, but my research made me go a different direction. If I recall, they told me in pretty plain terms NOT to use it without a hood latch.
No worries! I had not read this, although my searching indicated it was hit/miss if people kept the OEM latch. Given your comments, I will look further into it, although for now I am a ways away from even driving the car. If I do leave the latch off, I'll at least look into some better bracing for the pins themselves, as that's probably the weakest point. I appreciate your comments and concern.

Nice neighborhood. I bet the neighbors are loving you.

I live in a 55+ neighborhood. They all drive luxury cars and small SUVs.

Im the guy they roll their eyes at and say, "We moved in here to get away from people like that."
Haha I feel ya! Though I didn't stress about it much there since there were houses that would throw parties WAY into the night, super loud with people and music outside. For the handful times I started up the car in that neighborhood, they could deal with it. I've since moved and the car is now living in a castle on a hill with about 7 acres (friend's house).
 

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I like the ugly. But I'm sure it will be nice if you decide to paint it too.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I recently received the last of my big NPD order and am stoked to be working on the car again this weekend. I am forever leaving my 30s this week, and although I'm a bit bummed that going out or having a party is not really in the cards right now, my GF is lining up a couple of my good friends to hang out with me and install parts this Saturday. She even dropped a bunch of cash to help with buying the parts! This has all been a really big deal for me. We have a nearby summer cruise night on Fridays and I have been wanting to get my car ready to at least drive down the street out there for YEARS. I don't want to jinx myself here, but I feel like this could actually be possible when it comes around next summer (so far it's still on hold for this year anyway).

The big tasks this weekend will be to replace pretty much the entire clutch linkage (keeping existing z-bar), installing bearings in the new pedal support, replacing break hoses, bleed the system, and HOPEFULLY getting the car started. Got a brand new battery ready to go. I'd also like to wire up some gauges that have been sitting there lifeless for a while, and maybe just clean up a bit of my bad wiring attempts from years past.

I plan to record some video, which knowing me I may not actually do anything with, but I'll also be sure to take plenty of pics along the way. Wish me luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
Oh man, the clutch saga continues. It's been nearly 20 years since replacing some of these parts initially, and now I'm seeing things more clearly the 2nd time around. I'll get some pics up soon to clarify some of this. I will say, I'm glad I removed the driver's seat and the steering column. The column was a pain to get out, but what a difference! On the downside, it really sends home the message that this car would not be fun in a front collision, as now I can clearly see that solid steering shaft in all its deadly glory.

Sadly, I did not get to start the car, as was the original goal. Didn't even hook up the new battery. We did replace the taillights with a Scott Drake sequential kit (standard bulbs) and all new bezels/gaskets/lenses. WOW, now the bumper looks so much worse next to the new chrome. I'm not a big chrome fan anymore, so at some point those will get painted, but for now it sure looks clean.

Here's the drama portion of the post:
  1. The clutch pedal may need to be replaced. I'd love some input here. The shaft is pretty badly scarred, but I think with the new bearings, this won't be a big issue. However, the sprint attachment is nasty and I'm worried the voids will allow the spring to wear through the plastic bushing too soon and start chewing and the steel again.



  2. The Scott Drake clutch shaft bearing kit went on really easily...once I decided to skip the wave washers. We used a variety of blocks and clamps to try and squish it down enough to get the snap ring on, but there just was not enough room. Taking those springy washers out let it all go together easily and there is zero play. I can just barely spin one of them, but I really have to try. The kit came with new black plastic bushings, but it doesn't seem like they're needed for the install. Maybe those were just for packaging the bearings?

  3. With the bearings installed in the new support, there is not enough room to easily install the washer/pin on the end of the clutch pedal shaft. I had to squeeze the support to get those on, and it noticeably increased the resistance for the clutch pedal to swing (by hand). Maybe this is normal for stamped steel repro parts?
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  4. The upper clutch rod will not mount to the z-bar at 90 degrees. Hard to say where the inside end will sit without the support back in yet, but there was not enough room to straighten out the rod as it's hitting the clamp bolt on the booster. Even without that, it's on the far inboard side of the hole. This makes me think maybe the z-bar needs to move closer to the frame, but I was trying to avoid slop. I'm not really sure there's enough room to make the upper rod mount correctly anyway. Just wondering if anyone else has seen this, or if it looks like my z-bar is tweaked in some way (this is possible, as I've broken two driver's side motor mounts in the past).




  5. I'm really tempted to convert to manual brakes and replace the master cylinder with the late model aluminum one (probably the kit from Street or Track). However, I see I'd need a different pedal and support to make this work, as well as an adjustable pushrod. I'm not sure if it's possible to modify what I have for a non-boosted MC, but I'm going to start researching.
All-in-all, I had a lot of fun and it was good to hang out with friends, especially these days. My amazing GF planned this out for me, and she hooked us up with some really good pizza for lunch and lots of drinks/snacks. She sat nearby re-reading Fellowship of the Ring and listening to us curse at the car. It was 90-ish degrees out, but we had fans going and it wasn't unbearable. We were also out there for about 10 hours, so it had cooled down considerably by the time we wrapped up.

What a great way to kick off the big 4-0!

 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
Side note about that last pic...I picked up the export brace support thingy and swore that everyone was saying it mounts UNDER the cowl lip. I can't see how that's possible with the bumps in the firewall as well as some wires that come through in that spot. Looks like it would mount ABOVE like in the pic, but my export brace is touching the sloped area in back in places. Maybe loosening the bolts will give enough room to slip the support under, but I think I would also have to grind some of the raised lip area on either side of the export brace. I'll probably have to take more pics to show this better. I also saw one member state that it needed to be welded to work correctly.

But just so I'm clear, is this meant to go above or below?

[EDIT] I found several pictures of the support being welded to the upper portion of the cowl. It also seems like it's common for the bolt holes to not line up properly and may require redrilling. Guess I'll save that bit for when I have the MIG in the same location as the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I took a trip out to storage and rooted around a bunch of boxes and bins, but I finally found my other clutch rods! Since this upper rod is mean to attach to the z-bar from the fender side, it should clear the booster. 🤞

762196


The new pedal support still seems a bit wonky to me. The little bump on the back of the MC/switch connection point is rubbing on the support itself. This may be fine once it's mounted, but it makes me wonder if there should be some spacers on either side of the pedal pivot. I just have the plastic bushings and there is some wiggle room on either side.

762197


Also, since I'm replacing almost everything else that relates to shifting except the clutch itself, I might as well grab a new shifter while I'm at it. I have my sights set on the Summit T-5 shifter (seems to be highly-praised) and a new plastic bushing just in case.

It's so tricky...I've got a bunch of items in my Summit and NPD wishlists, so whenever I put in an order I feel like I should "grab a little of this...a little of that..."

You know how it is.
 
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